R56 Justa reliability ?
#52
#53
Two water pumps within 30k? That seems like a very high failure rate, any idea why?
Haven't heard of water pump failures being a problem with "justa's" before, anyone else out there had problems with their water pumps failing?
#54
#55
Took delivery of our 'justa' R55 in June of 2008 - now has just over 108k miles. Have replaced the timing chain tensioner plus the serpentine belt, and had a chemical decarbonizing (which helped a LOT) at 90k - and a windshield at about 40k, but that really doesn't count. No other repairs needed
#58
I'm thinking that I had a faulty water pump from the factory and the second one was installed incorrectly. After the first one was replaced, the second one failed in less than 5k miles. I have a hard time believing I received two bum units. The first one went in the middle of a hellish CT winter, I'm not sure if the weather played a role.
#60
I see the bar for reliability is pretty low for some mini owners. lol That being said I think a Justa will be just fine and probably way more reliable than that 135i you bought.
If the engine in your 135i is a N54, wait till your injectors need replacing every 30-40k miles ($200 a piece and go in 3's), water pump at least every 40-50k. If its an Auto, that ZF transmission is junk. Search 2-1 downshift on any BMW forum and you get everything from 3 series to 7 series needing new 8k tranmissions at 100k miles. I ran from my e90 335i before my warranty ran out. Good luck!
If the engine in your 135i is a N54, wait till your injectors need replacing every 30-40k miles ($200 a piece and go in 3's), water pump at least every 40-50k. If its an Auto, that ZF transmission is junk. Search 2-1 downshift on any BMW forum and you get everything from 3 series to 7 series needing new 8k tranmissions at 100k miles. I ran from my e90 335i before my warranty ran out. Good luck!
#61
I have 55k miles on my n54 and I've not replaced any injectors or water pump. I got a fault code for vanos after not driving the car for a month, it just needed an Italian tune up, no problems now.
61k on our justa now, needs tires soon no issues so far, the 135i is only driven on nice fridays
61k on our justa now, needs tires soon no issues so far, the 135i is only driven on nice fridays
#62
Accountants suck. They "OK" the justification behind a $250 option for a gray headliner, made of the same material, but just dyed a different color than the beige; but a part that would have cost $20 more then its plastic counterpart, to install at the onset of the engine's production, "Whoa! What are we, the Pentagon!?!"
#63
Had my water pump replaced about a year ago, and for those of you who may not know, MINI is now using an aluminum part with an aluminum impeller... As they should have from the beginning.
Accountants suck. They "OK" the justification behind a $250 option for a gray headliner, made of the same material, but just dyed a different color than the beige; but a part that would have cost $20 more then its plastic counterpart, to install at the onset of the engine's production, "Whoa! What are we, the Pentagon!?!"
Accountants suck. They "OK" the justification behind a $250 option for a gray headliner, made of the same material, but just dyed a different color than the beige; but a part that would have cost $20 more then its plastic counterpart, to install at the onset of the engine's production, "Whoa! What are we, the Pentagon!?!"
#64
I have 55k miles on my n54 and I've not replaced any injectors or water pump. I got a fault code for vanos after not driving the car for a month, it just needed an Italian tune up, no problems now.
61k on our justa now, needs tires soon no issues so far, the 135i is only driven on nice fridays
61k on our justa now, needs tires soon no issues so far, the 135i is only driven on nice fridays
#65
#66
new owner of a 2011 just a clubman it's a DD for my wife short commute around 5000 or less miles per year. My Two Cents if you want a commuter car and your racking up the mileage a Toyota Corola or Camry for worry free piece of mind driving with minimal repairs or maintenance. I also drive a Mazda Miata 1991 Bullet proof.
I think owning a Mini you know going into it they require watching not like a Japanese car but the driving experience compared to my Corola well lets just say there is no comparison and you will smile too and from work. This is an old Thread how did you make out?
I think owning a Mini you know going into it they require watching not like a Japanese car but the driving experience compared to my Corola well lets just say there is no comparison and you will smile too and from work. This is an old Thread how did you make out?
#67
new owner of a 2011 just a clubman it's a DD for my wife short commute around 5000 or less miles per year. My Two Cents if you want a commuter car and your racking up the mileage a Toyota Corola or Camry for worry free piece of mind driving with minimal repairs or maintenance. I also drive a Mazda Miata 1991 Bullet proof.
I think owning a Mini you know going into it they require watching not like a Japanese car but the driving experience compared to my Corola well lets just say there is no comparison and you will smile too and from work. This is an old Thread how did you make out?
I think owning a Mini you know going into it they require watching not like a Japanese car but the driving experience compared to my Corola well lets just say there is no comparison and you will smile too and from work. This is an old Thread how did you make out?
#68
I didn't think it was more economical to have two cars, one for daily commute and the other for weekend fun. Besides, why save the fun for weekends only? I can't imagine making the 90+ per day commute in a boring car. My 2011 base is now approaching 119K miles. Yes I have had parts replaced, most recently the valve cover gasket which took me about $300 at a DIY shop with tech help. My Toyota owner friends complain about other items here and there. I don't think they drive care-free, they just probably pay less for repair and maintenance. I keep the cost down with DIY. :-)
#70
So it's been about a year and a half and I've put 35,000 miles on the mini. I picked up a 540i/6speed and I alternate driving it to work, it rides like a large bmw there's a big comfort factor difference.
This mini has turned out fairly unreliable, first issue radio reception went bad, like a light switch 6 months ago it stopped picking up all but the strongest radio, large dead zones on my commute. I've been through all the diagnostics and replaced the antenna modules/filters on the hatch and it is still bad, at least we have aux input.
Key fob reception range is terrible, sometimes I have to stand at the car trying to get it to unlock, both with original key and with my wife's brand new key. It pisses me off but not enough to spend tons at a dealer throwing parts at it.
Clutch just started to slip in 3rd and 4th at 3000 rpm this is the one that made me revisit this thread, 84,000 miles is not acceptable for a clutch!! All my cars are manuals and I've never had one go out that quick before. It could be a leaky main causing issues we will see when I open it up, too soon for that to leak too so either way it's really ticking me off.
bmw reman clutch is only 200 $ but shops charge 11 hours labor, looks like a ton of stuff has to come off to get to it. Any gas savings I had for this car would be poof gone instantly, the jeep wrangler would be the same price per mile if I paid a mini dealer for a clutch job, negating any savings in fuel costs. My jeep wrangler has been more reliable than this mini.
I did pickup a R53 to autocross/trackday I hope the clutch lasts in that one, those have dual mass flywheels and cost a good bit to convert back to single mass.
and ohh yeah, the N54 in my 135i is so far more reliable, I have not had any issues noted in post #60 yet
This mini has turned out fairly unreliable, first issue radio reception went bad, like a light switch 6 months ago it stopped picking up all but the strongest radio, large dead zones on my commute. I've been through all the diagnostics and replaced the antenna modules/filters on the hatch and it is still bad, at least we have aux input.
Key fob reception range is terrible, sometimes I have to stand at the car trying to get it to unlock, both with original key and with my wife's brand new key. It pisses me off but not enough to spend tons at a dealer throwing parts at it.
Clutch just started to slip in 3rd and 4th at 3000 rpm this is the one that made me revisit this thread, 84,000 miles is not acceptable for a clutch!! All my cars are manuals and I've never had one go out that quick before. It could be a leaky main causing issues we will see when I open it up, too soon for that to leak too so either way it's really ticking me off.
bmw reman clutch is only 200 $ but shops charge 11 hours labor, looks like a ton of stuff has to come off to get to it. Any gas savings I had for this car would be poof gone instantly, the jeep wrangler would be the same price per mile if I paid a mini dealer for a clutch job, negating any savings in fuel costs. My jeep wrangler has been more reliable than this mini.
I did pickup a R53 to autocross/trackday I hope the clutch lasts in that one, those have dual mass flywheels and cost a good bit to convert back to single mass.
and ohh yeah, the N54 in my 135i is so far more reliable, I have not had any issues noted in post #60 yet
#71
Gladys keeps chugging along, 50K now and lots of fun along the way.
I have replaced the thermostat, this has been the only failure of a part so far besides the normal wear items such as brakes.
BTW, car got the name Gladys from my paternal grandma's family connections to Birmingham, England.
I have replaced the thermostat, this has been the only failure of a part so far besides the normal wear items such as brakes.
BTW, car got the name Gladys from my paternal grandma's family connections to Birmingham, England.
#74
So it's been about a year and a half and I've put 35,000 miles on the mini. I picked up a 540i/6speed and I alternate driving it to work, it rides like a large bmw there's a big comfort factor difference.
This mini has turned out fairly unreliable, first issue radio reception went bad, like a light switch 6 months ago it stopped picking up all but the strongest radio, large dead zones on my commute. I've been through all the diagnostics and replaced the antenna modules/filters on the hatch and it is still bad, at least we have aux input.
Key fob reception range is terrible, sometimes I have to stand at the car trying to get it to unlock, both with original key and with my wife's brand new key. It pisses me off but not enough to spend tons at a dealer throwing parts at it.
Clutch just started to slip in 3rd and 4th at 3000 rpm this is the one that made me revisit this thread, 84,000 miles is not acceptable for a clutch!! All my cars are manuals and I've never had one go out that quick before. It could be a leaky main causing issues we will see when I open it up, too soon for that to leak too so either way it's really ticking me off.
bmw reman clutch is only 200 $ but shops charge 11 hours labor, looks like a ton of stuff has to come off to get to it. Any gas savings I had for this car would be poof gone instantly, the jeep wrangler would be the same price per mile if I paid a mini dealer for a clutch job, negating any savings in fuel costs. My jeep wrangler has been more reliable than this mini.
I did pickup a R53 to autocross/trackday I hope the clutch lasts in that one, those have dual mass flywheels and cost a good bit to convert back to single mass.
and ohh yeah, the N54 in my 135i is so far more reliable, I have not had any issues noted in post #60 yet
This mini has turned out fairly unreliable, first issue radio reception went bad, like a light switch 6 months ago it stopped picking up all but the strongest radio, large dead zones on my commute. I've been through all the diagnostics and replaced the antenna modules/filters on the hatch and it is still bad, at least we have aux input.
Key fob reception range is terrible, sometimes I have to stand at the car trying to get it to unlock, both with original key and with my wife's brand new key. It pisses me off but not enough to spend tons at a dealer throwing parts at it.
Clutch just started to slip in 3rd and 4th at 3000 rpm this is the one that made me revisit this thread, 84,000 miles is not acceptable for a clutch!! All my cars are manuals and I've never had one go out that quick before. It could be a leaky main causing issues we will see when I open it up, too soon for that to leak too so either way it's really ticking me off.
bmw reman clutch is only 200 $ but shops charge 11 hours labor, looks like a ton of stuff has to come off to get to it. Any gas savings I had for this car would be poof gone instantly, the jeep wrangler would be the same price per mile if I paid a mini dealer for a clutch job, negating any savings in fuel costs. My jeep wrangler has been more reliable than this mini.
I did pickup a R53 to autocross/trackday I hope the clutch lasts in that one, those have dual mass flywheels and cost a good bit to convert back to single mass.
and ohh yeah, the N54 in my 135i is so far more reliable, I have not had any issues noted in post #60 yet
#75