R56 R56 intake manifold removal tips
#1
R56 intake manifold removal tips
Hey guys, I am trying to remove my intake manifold to access the water pipe that runs in between the water pump and the thermostat. I tried searching but did not find any instructions on how to remove the intake manifold. Can someone please provide some tips? It will be greatly appreciated!
#2
Never mind, I found the intake manifold removal instructions in the following thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...right-way.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...right-way.html
#4
#5
Best way to do it is once the intake pipe is off the throttle body you can take your hand and and if you feel at about "5 o'clock" under the throttle you should be able to feel the 10mm. I usually take a magnetic 10mm with a 3in extension and attach it to the bolt then attach the ratchet (air ratchet) after the fact.
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Jakomcbean (04-16-2019)
#6
Best tip around. I wish the instructions I found on NAM told me about this. I struggled for like 10 minutes before I found the bolt.
I found that putting a small piece of paper over the head of the bolt and then press the socket on will allow you to keep the tool on the bolt. I was also able to remove the passenger wheel and undo a couple of the inner fender fasteners and get to the bolt that way too.
#7
Just look at the Real OEM diagram to get a feel for where it is, then start hunting for it with your fingers. You don't need to take the front passenger wheel liner off.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...33&hg=11&fg=40
Once you find the bracket with your hand (part #5), it's pretty easy to find the bolt (part #6)
It is most likely very tight from rust on the threads and will take some time to get out since there is very little room for ratchet movement. Once it's loose, do your best not to drop it.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...33&hg=11&fg=40
Once you find the bracket with your hand (part #5), it's pretty easy to find the bolt (part #6)
It is most likely very tight from rust on the threads and will take some time to get out since there is very little room for ratchet movement. Once it's loose, do your best not to drop it.
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#8
Thanks for the tips everyone. I will see what I can do.
I should also mention that the reason for removing the intake manifold is to access the water tube that runs in between the water pump and the thermostat behind the engine. The water pump side of this tube got loose while I was trying to remove the thermostat from the other side of tube. I saw some posts where some people were able to push the intake manifold towards the firewall without removing the 10 mm bolt at the bottom. Do you think there would be enough room to work with the water tube if I can push the manifold towards the firewall? Or would I need to remove the manifold completely?
I should also mention that the reason for removing the intake manifold is to access the water tube that runs in between the water pump and the thermostat behind the engine. The water pump side of this tube got loose while I was trying to remove the thermostat from the other side of tube. I saw some posts where some people were able to push the intake manifold towards the firewall without removing the 10 mm bolt at the bottom. Do you think there would be enough room to work with the water tube if I can push the manifold towards the firewall? Or would I need to remove the manifold completely?
#11
#12
Is there a secret to pulling the intake pipe off of the throttle body? I loosened the clamp on it all the way and tried pulling the pipe as hard as I could but it won't budge. Any tips on how to get it off?
Best way to do it is once the intake pipe is off the throttle body you can take your hand and and if you feel at about "5 o'clock" under the throttle you should be able to feel the 10mm. I usually take a magnetic 10mm with a 3in extension and attach it to the bolt then attach the ratchet (air ratchet) after the fact.
#13
I use a long radiator hose pick and some "rubber care" (non silicone lubricating spray) and work my way around the throttle as much as possible. It still won't come off at this point so you then need to take a long pry bar and put the tip right at the end of the hose and use the intake as a pry point and push the handle of the pry bar towards the driver side of the car (make sure you don't pinch the PCV hose or vanos solenoid. Hopefully this makes sense.
Last edited by Tylerlanger1; 01-04-2014 at 08:35 PM.
#15
On a non-turbo R56 (my wife's is a 2010), removing the intake manifold requires not only removing the 10mm bolt securing the upper part of the rear support bracket, but you also have to remove the 13mm bolt at the bottom of the same support bracket! Or at least maybe it has to be loosened. What a major pain! It was VERY difficult to get the 10mm bolt off with my 1/4" ratchet with swivel attachment as well. That bracket is so deep and angled in a position that makes it impossible to get at from the top of the engine. And still is VERY difficult from below the engine. Be ready to swear a lot. ;-)
#16
I know I'm resurrecting an old one here, but I'm at this point in a thermostat/crossover pipe/walnut blast job and I've been working on the intake pipe to the throttle body for an hour. I'm afraid to pry on it too hard because the how-tos I've read warn against cracking the TB housing. I considered leaving it on but I can't get to that stupid bracket bolt with it in the way.
This is the most frustrating car I've ever worked on. To think I was aggravating having to pull the intake manifold to do the thermostat on my 300zx...at least it didn't have any bolts that I couldn't see.
This is the most frustrating car I've ever worked on. To think I was aggravating having to pull the intake manifold to do the thermostat on my 300zx...at least it didn't have any bolts that I couldn't see.
#18
#19
While replacing the thermostat housing and water cross over pipel, I had to remove the intake. All three of the eyelet tabs on the water pipe had wire loom tied to them. No biggy. I removed the passenger wheel, wheel well liner, using a socket with a swivel and a 30cm socket extension able to remove it without much issue.
Picture of my access view on the rear side of the front passenger brake rotor. Here at the bottom going up you can make out the lower control arm, the outer tie rod, the sway bar and above that the 10mm bolt (magic bolt).
Picture of my access view on the rear side of the front passenger brake rotor. Here at the bottom going up you can make out the lower control arm, the outer tie rod, the sway bar and above that the 10mm bolt (magic bolt).
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bugeye1031 (04-04-2020)
#20
R56 intake manifold removal / Mini Cooper PCV hose removal
+1
Best tip around. I wish the instructions I found on NAM told me about this. I struggled for like 10 minutes before I found the bolt.
I found that putting a small piece of paper over the head of the bolt and then press the socket on will allow you to keep the tool on the bolt. I was also able to remove the passenger wheel and undo a couple of the inner fender fasteners and get to the bolt that way too.
Best tip around. I wish the instructions I found on NAM told me about this. I struggled for like 10 minutes before I found the bolt.
I found that putting a small piece of paper over the head of the bolt and then press the socket on will allow you to keep the tool on the bolt. I was also able to remove the passenger wheel and undo a couple of the inner fender fasteners and get to the bolt that way too.
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