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R56 2013 R56 LCI - Wiring Diagram Needed!

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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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2013 R56 LCI - Wiring Diagram Needed! - JCW Sport Gauge install on 2013

Hi guys,

I'm in need of a wiring diagram specifically for the 2013 R56 MCS. I've discovered that some changes have been made after trying to install the JCW sport gauge retrofit kit that is suppose to work for the 2013 models.

Does anyone have or have access to the latest 2013 diagrams?

Thanks in advanced!

Erik
 

Last edited by eRock; Nov 5, 2013 at 04:54 AM.
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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I don't but I did find the instructions on a .pdf on here somewhere. I have the kit too but havent gotten around to installing it yet. There does seem to be one typo in the official factory instructions diagram. The wire with no connector and the one loose pin with a terminal connector have their labels switched.


EDIT: Found the instructions! http://s3.motoringfile.com/wp-conten.../03/gauges.pdf

EDIT EDIT: wires in the diagram (page 6) B7 and B8 have their labels switched....B7 is B8 and B8 is really B7.
 

Last edited by komet155; Nov 4, 2013 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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If you do install this soon, please post pictures. I have been lazy about starting on this since I've never taken anything apart inside my new Mini before.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by komet155
If you do install this soon, please post pictures. I have been lazy about starting on this since I've never taken anything apart inside my new Mini before.
Seems to generally, oversimplified-ly be:

If there's no screws/expansion rivets:
Grab
Pull
If it doesn't come off, pull harder

Just took apart the lower door sills, rear paneling and panels in boot installing some stereo stuff.

Good to have instructions, though.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:21 PM
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I'm just afraid of applying pressure the wrong way and breaking off any tabs or attachment lugs of any kind.
How hard was it to get the door sills off? I think I'll need to remove my drivers side one before I remove the panel adjacent to it.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by komet155
I'm just afraid of applying pressure the wrong way and breaking off any tabs or attachment lugs of any kind.
How hard was it to get the door sills off? I think I'll need to remove my drivers side one before I remove the panel adjacent to it.
if you want to take the door sill completely out of the car, unscrew the bottom of the seat belt with a T40 bit. take off the door seal where it touches the door sill by pulling it off. grab the door seal while sitting inside the car and pull straight away from the car. start in the footwell since it gives you that nice big piece to grab onto. once you pop that off, work down the sill towards the rear of the car popping it off along the way. no tabs/lugs to break off on the door sill.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by komet155
I don't but I did find the instructions on a .pdf on here somewhere. I have the kit too but havent gotten around to installing it yet. There does seem to be one typo in the official factory instructions diagram. The wire with no connector and the one loose pin with a terminal connector have their labels switched.


EDIT: Found the instructions! http://s3.motoringfile.com/wp-conten.../03/gauges.pdf

EDIT EDIT: wires in the diagram (page 6) B7 and B8 have their labels switched....B7 is B8 and B8 is really B7.

Yep, I noticed that too. If you have a 2013 car, there is a second problem. in section 6, the instructions say to remove pins 1–4 from the "X1880" plug. The only problem is that only pins 1, 2, and 4 are populated, no pin 3. Also, the wire colors are all different. The instructions say the wire colors should be the following:

Pin 1 - Red/Yellow
Pin 2 - Brown/Black
Pin 3 - Yellow/Black
Pin 4 - Yellow/brown

The actual wire colors on my 2013 MCS:

Pin 1 - Green/Blue
Pin 2 - Green/Yellow
Pin 3 - none
Pin 4 - Black/Yellow

Mini made a change for 2013. I've PM'd a couple of other NAM members who had this same problem a few months back but a fix was never posted. I'll let you know if I get it to work.

-Erik
 
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by yesti
if you want to take the door sill completely out of the car, unscrew the bottom of the seat belt with a T40 bit. take off the door seal where it touches the door sill by pulling it off. grab the door seal while sitting inside the car and pull straight away from the car. start in the footwell since it gives you that nice big piece to grab onto. once you pop that off, work down the sill towards the rear of the car popping it off along the way. no tabs/lugs to break off on the door sill.

Yeah, this is how I should have done it. I just pulled the panel out starting at the front end in the footwell until I could get access to the footwell module. Nothing broke, but the white circular plugs/tabs came out of their guides on the plastic panel and I had to pry them out of the body and place them back into the panel. It was a little tight, but I was able to do it. Also, having a set of Schwaben body trim tools came in handy when prying the white tabs out of the body AND when getting the panel back under the rubber lip that runs atop of the lower door sill.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by eRock
Yeah, this is how I should have done it. I just pulled the panel out starting at the front end in the footwell until I could get access to the footwell module. Nothing broke, but the white circular plugs/tabs came out of their guides on the plastic panel and I had to pry them out of the body and place them back into the panel. It was a little tight, but I was able to do it. Also, having a set of Schwaben body trim tools came in handy when prying the white tabs out of the body AND when getting the panel back under the rubber lip that runs atop of the lower door sill.
Yes, those tabs do get stuck in the body sometimes. I used a microfiber cloth to protect the paint/plastic and flathead screwdriver to carefully pry them out to reinsert into the panel. To get the sill under the rubber I used my index finger.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 09:24 AM
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MINI must have published updated installation instructions (they need to, for dealers to use). Where did you buy the kit? You should ask the vendor if they can obtain the latest version of the instructions.

Otherwise you can get up to date instructions or wiring diagrams here: https://www.minitis.com/ ($30 for one day subscription)
 
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rkw
MINI must have published updated installation instructions (they need to, for dealers to use). Where did you buy the kit? You should ask the vendor if they can obtain the latest version of the instructions.

Otherwise you can get up to date instructions or wiring diagrams here: https://www.minitis.com/ ($30 for one day subscription)
Thanks rkw! I might just end up using that. I've talked to someone who has access to the BMW ASAP and they say that the 2008 install manual is the latest one from Mini. Hopefully there is an addendum somewhere.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 02:55 PM
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I figured it out. The problem was my own stupidity. For all future DIYers of the gauges, in section 6 the X1880 plug that is mentioned is NOT the plug that connects to the tachometer, instead it is an identical plug that goes all the way up underneath the steering column and plugs in right behind the steering wheel.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 01:42 PM
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Im glad you figured it out. Thanks in advance for when I tackle this project.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by eRock
Yep, I noticed that too. If you have a 2013 car, there is a second problem. in section 6, the instructions say to remove pins 1–4 from the "X1880" plug. The only problem is that only pins 1, 2, and 4 are populated, no pin 3. Also, the wire colors are all different. The instructions say the wire colors should be the following:

Pin 1 - Red/Yellow
Pin 2 - Brown/Black
Pin 3 - Yellow/Black
Pin 4 - Yellow/brown

The actual wire colors on my 2013 MCS:

Pin 1 - Green/Blue
Pin 2 - Green/Yellow
Pin 3 - none
Pin 4 - Black/Yellow

Mini made a change for 2013. I've PM'd a couple of other NAM members who had this same problem a few months back but a fix was never posted. I'll let you know if I get it to work.

-Erik
I have the same probleme whit a S, 2009
 
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronin12
I have the same probleme whit a S, 2009
My problem was that I was looking at the wrong plug (that tach plug). The X1880 plug is the one that runs all the way under the steering column and plugs in the back of the unit that sits right behind the steering wheel. It is identical to the plug that plugs into the tach.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by eRock
My problem was that I was looking at the wrong plug (that tach plug). The X1880 plug is the one that runs all the way under the steering column and plugs in the back of the unit that sits right behind the steering wheel. It is identical to the plug that plugs into the tach.
Wauuu, Thank you very much, finally and after the headaches it resolved.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 10:01 AM
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I've installed my JCW accessory coolant gauge and notice it seems to start at a pretty high temperature even when the engine is cold. Has anyone else noticed this?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by komet155
I've installed my JCW accessory coolant gauge and notice it seems to start at a pretty high temperature even when the engine is cold. Has anyone else noticed this?
What readings are you seeing?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 12:25 PM
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It never shows colder than 15c (I assume that's what the hashmark between 0 and 30 stands for) and sometimes even starts at 30c when cold. Even on a hot summer day, I can't see how the underhood temperature of a cold engine could be approx 80f degrees from the very start.
Is this normal?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by komet155
It never shows colder than 15c (I assume that's what the hashmark between 0 and 30 stands for) and sometimes even starts at 30c when cold. Even on a hot summer day, I can't see how the underhood temperature of a cold engine could be approx 80f degrees from the very start.
Is this normal?
what's the ambient air temp? when it's mid 80's F outside my car tells me its 30 C. you expecting the engine to be cooler than the environment?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 01:15 PM
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The ambient air temperature was in the high 60's.

Originally Posted by yesti
what's the ambient air temp? when it's mid 80's F outside my car tells me its 30 C. you expecting the engine to be cooler than the environment?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 01:21 PM
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well 15 C is ~60 F so if you saw something around that then I think all is well. you just want the gauge to read at least 90 C before you start stomping on it, sometimes short trips don't get it there for me. that's when the pops/burbles start too if in sport mode.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 01:30 PM
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Thanks!
I was just concerned it may have been because the control unit was set wrong, causing miscalibration. I had double checked the settings before install (it varies based on engine, gauges fitted and control unit part number) but was paranoid that I had perhaps followed inaccurate instructions.
 
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