I'm going to be installing a CAI and new battery at the same time on my 2008 MCS. Will the new battery have to be coded to the car? If I don't use a memory saver will the radio need to be recoded to the car? Thanks in advance.

 

This is for real? I mean, the second question is legit, but the battery is a battery, there's no special circuit inside a battery that tells the car it's the right one. It's a 12V DC power source with a + and - terminal. Aftermarket battery companies wouldn't survive if you had to get a battery specific for the car.

 

Well, with the gen 2 cars, I think you are supposed to register or reprogram the car
to the new battery . . . something to do with BMW's Intelligent Battery System or Sensor
where the charging circuit keeps track of the battery's age and requirements that supposedly
change over the life of the battery. In other words you don't have to code a battery to the
car, but you're supposed to code the car to the new battery (and pay the dealer to do it).
Probably mainly a load of crap as I doubt that very many if any independent shops do
this on MINIs and BMWs when they replace batteries. I have a feeling we might get an
answer to that from some of the vendors if they read this thread.

 

I'm curious as well, the dealer literally just replaced my battery this week under warranty (it failed a battery test ) and I ended up being saddled with a loaner car for 3 days because the part supplier had an issue where (and I am paraphrasing from what my SA told me) there was a discrepancy between the battery labeling and its coding in BMW's parts system. While I'm not sure if that means anything, I do have to guess there is a big deal on what battery goes to what car. Whether that has to do with the Intelligent Battery System, or just the battery being the correct size of shape, is beyond me.

I should have inquired further, but I was happy enough the battery and tensioner replacement were under warranty.

 

Inside the battery it should be..... a battery. Again, you should be able to get a battery from a parts store, not JUST the dealership. I have never heard of the battery itself having to be coded to the car.

 

Yes there is a battery registration programming needed once you replace the battery on an R56 and newer MINI's.
The battery registration programs the date you replaced the battery in the ECU, what kind of battery you put in it, and Amp Hour of the battery, and the last one I did I think even asked me the CCA of the battery.
Putting this info into the DME allows the DME to control the alternator to properly charge the battery.
The car will work if you don't program in the new battery, but the new battery may not last as long. We always program them at our shop when we replace them.

 

yay more bull **** bmw puts on their car to make you spend more money. "oh you can just replace the battery without seeing the dealer, but the battery might not last as long". what a crock of ****.

 

Should be... But few cars come with an AGM battery as stock. AGMs require TLC whereas lead/acid units don't need as much..

The "coding" process basically tells the car what chemical type/size of the battery is installed in the vehicle and then it adapts the charge rates, voltage, and tolerances into the charging system..

This in turn is supposed to lead to longer battery life. So what can happen when a battery is NOT coded? Shorter battery life.

 

Not all gen 2 cars have the intelligent battery system, (IBS). To check your car for this, just look at the neg batt cable. Follow the cable as it goes away from the batt. If it terminates into a little square box about 5-6 inches away from the batt., then you have the IBS and you should have the car coded for the new battery.

Otherwise you are good to go.

Not sure bout prices in your area, but my dealer oem battery was almost the exact price as aftermarket. Besides, that is a tight compartment to fit it in on a gen2, so not all batt sizes will fit in there.

 

I have the original OEM battery and it's still going strong in my 07 MCS.

 

Some dealers say yes however I purchased a battery from NAPA that came with the vent tube and all just like the OEM battery and I've been running it for the last two years with no problem what so ever. My car's been in for service and they've checked everything, again with no issues. So NOoooooo....

 

AGM's have been in wide spread use in the motorcycle world for years where they do not need any special TLC. The feature that makes AGM's popular on motorcycles is that they require LESS TLC that traditional flooded cell batteries. If MINI OEM batteries are true AGM batteries, they work on the same lead-acid chemistry as old fashioned flooded cell types and use the same charger, same alternator, same everything.

Now some people incorrectly use the term "AGM" for battery types like gell cell or even Lithium/Ion types. These are very different.

 

We have read on this forum instances where people have had problems that new batteries have not solved, until the dealer coded the car for them.

It sounds like, at least on some occasions, it can be necessary. It also sounds like more often it is not required.

 

Well, technically AGMs are directives of VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid).. and all AGMs/VRLAs are not the same.. such as vented or ventless designs...

Many of the aftermarket "universal" style AGM upgrades (such as Optima) units are designed to handle the "rougher use" average voltage/current regulated devices such as your basic sport bike, ATV, or older vehicle.. I've run several in older cars without and issue.. That said...

Several of the Mini's I've seen have a factory AGM.. that does seem to be somewhat picky as a charge rate/cycle. Many AGMs require a very tailored charge rate. Throwing them on a standard charger will cause them to fail with much excitement to be had.

(Come to think of it.. is the AGM unit only in Turbo cars?)

 

Me too.

 

I just put a Braille B2317 battery in last weekend and got a warning light. Looks like a headlight with an exclamation in it, indicating that a bulb is out somewhere, but no bulb is out… Dealer couldn’t find the issue and suggested putting in an OEM battery to do farther diagnostics at my expense… I said no thanks. I still have my 5yr old, but still good, OEM battery and will put it back in and go from there to see if the warning goes away. I don’t know if I have the intelligent battery system (IBS) that 05r50 mentioned, will be checking that also this weekend.

 

I had Sears install a Diehard Gold AGM when I got the 2008 MCS because it had the original battery still in it. After reading up on registering the battery, I took the car to the local shop and they registered the battery for a half hour shop time. The technician said that you need to do this because as the battery gets older, the system will charge it more. He said that the system basically jolts the new battery and will cause it to fail sooner. He said that it really shouldn't affect the car, just the battery.