So about 2 weeks ago i started to notice the dreaded death rattle, but i was unsure 'cause with 1 good rev, it would go away. So as the days passed, it got worse and worse, to the point where it would go away, but as soon as there was load on the engine (particularly turning corners) it came right back. So Thursday night, I left my beloved MINI at our local Euro Specialty shop, was told it would be done Friday night, ready for pickup. Got a call Friday morning, was then told it wouldn't be ready until Wednesday or Thursday of this week. The worst part, i JUST bought the car beginning of April.... and it's already in the shop. So from what i was quoted, to fix it, does $1,300 sound like a "decent" price for an upgraded guard rail, and new chain? And how often does this happen usually, it's an '07 MCS

 

I think $1,300 is a fairly good price considering I've heard people quoted between $1,700 and $2,200 people from the dealer. It's a shame you don't know the maintenance history of the vehicle. I'd be curious to know if the original owner only stuck to the maintenance reminder for their service. It's a fairly common occurrence in 2nd generation Coopers.

 

The quote for $1300 is a lot lower than what has been reported by other members! Did you buy an extended warranty? What's your mileage?

I also purchased a 2007 MCS second owner and I purchased an extended warranty, I have heard the death rattle at startup (1-2) seconds in cold weather. Now it seems to happen every time I first startup whether in the morning or noon time regardless of temperature. I have noticed that my engine runs much smoother in warm weather v.s cold weather, the gas pedal seems hesitant in cold weather. Does this mean it will not get worse even if I don't hear it again?

 

I'm in the same boat. Newly purchased 07 mini with 62k miles on it.

sounds like it will continue to wear no matter what. Turbo's seem to wear faster, poor maintenance speeds up its demise.

My mini is getting checked for that this week. I heard it last week, but repair shop (3rd party warranty approved) had to do research on what to look for.
Since I first notified them, it seems to have gotten worse. Hopefully it will get fixed before it goes completely (though warranty would pick it up).

 

I just hit 47,000 miles, I check the oil either every week or every 500 miles. Lately I've been down 1/4" from the maximum mark after about 500 miles. I know it's the crappy PCV system throwing oil vapor into the combustion chamber! I love my MC, it's the most fun car to drive period!

When you have a deductible warranty ($200), will Mini charge me this if their just checking whether there's a tensioner problem or is the deductible to be paid only if warranty work is performed? I'd hate to spend $200 if Mini takes no action at all just because of chattering noise at startup only! I'm under 50,000 miles...

 

I got my 09 JCW with 28k on the odometer. Within the week of having the car I got the death rattle on the car. One day yes one day no. Also had the car go into limo mode a few times. Until it shut off n me and left me on the side of the road. Mind you it was a week of having the car. Had it towed to the dealer the next day got a call that the motor needed to be replaced. It was out if the warranty with mini, but the dealer called mini of North America and they decided to cover the motor for me considering it was such low miles and the timing went off on the motor. The problem was worse case senerio. Valves got bent lost compression and metal shavings were in the oil. I'm waiting on the car to be fixed and hoping for it to be solved. If not I will be returning the under the lemon law.

Hope you the best of luck with this.

 

Did you buy it in one of the 6 states that cover used cars in their lemon laws (according to Edmonds)?

 

Yes i did. im in New Jersey i believe that it has to be where u register it. i bought it in new york. I really dont want it to get that far. i hope replacing the motor will work all the problems out. plus i got an extended warranty on the power train. so i should be good if anything happens

 

So, an update on the repairs, got a call from the shop, should be done by tomorrow afternoon at the latest, and guess what, they recommended a valve cover replacement cause of the (Imo) moronic idea to integrate the pcv valve into the valve cover as one unit, as the pcv valve is going bad, being cheap, i turned it down, and will be replacing the cover myself, and just keep a watch on the oil till then, so yeah i did some searching and see people usually have to shell out 1700+, so im happy lol... on a lighter note, im so thrilled to be having my baby back tomorrow! I feel lovesick =P

 

The day after i got my 07 S my PCV valve stopped working. Got a new cover put on along with the upper timing chain guide that was worn out.

I then later got the timing chain replaced with a new tensioner for 1500 dollars. The rattle came right back as the mechanic did a terrible job, he fixed it again.

Since then ive had an oil leak in my turbo and a water pump go out.

ive had this car for less than a year, it really sucks that it messed up so much. There is still an annoying clatter coming from the valve cover, but its not the timing chain. It can only be heard at idle and as soon as i give it the LITTLEST imput possible to even make the engine turn slightly faster it stops. Its confusing as all hell.

Good luck to you man

 

I hav the same problem with mine. 07 MCS with 51000 miles. The mini shop I took my car to said it was normal and not the death rattle. Have you found out anything as to what this is?

 

Im not 100% on it. My best guess right now would be possibly the carbon build up these cars are known for causing the rough idle. Ive seen pictures of the valves of these cars at 50k and it seriously looks like someone dumped sludge into the intake ports.

Im in the process of making my own walnut shell blaster, all you really need is a compressor, air hose, a homemade hopper to carry the walnut shells, a shop vac, and two fittings that the MINI dealers are using to do this same treatment that can be found on ECS tuning. This may cost you between 100-300 dollars depending on what items you already have (shop vac etc) This treatment will cost between 800-1000 dollars at a dealer.

Heres the link to the two walnut blaster fittings

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...ool/ES2166079/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...ool/ES2166078/

 

thank you!

 

I don't understand, how does those two parts fit when one is threaded and the handle isn't? Can someone draw up a schematic of how the entire shop vac/compressor with wand should look?

 

Keep those receipts. http://www.motoringfile.com/2013/05/...ntent=FaceBook

You might get reimbursed so save those receipts.

 

Hopefully while they were replacing the guide rail and the chain, they replaced the other parts which apparently are part of a kit that contains; guide rails, idler, crank gear, timing chain, miscellaneous bolts/fasteners, etc.

 

The shop vac handle is fitted to fit the intake port exactly. There is a small hole in the vac piece that allows for the wand tube to fit thru it. The wand tube is connected to your pressurized canister with your walnut shells.

You vacuum as you go. Using the blast wand to wiggle it around and scrub the valves.

It is doable as a DIY. But how often are you going to do it? Dealer prices are too steep but if you are in the East Coast then see Helix motorsports. They did my wlanut shell blasting for $350. Everyones buildup is different. Mine had 100,000 miles on it but wasn't very bad. They said some cars are much worse. Again, I think it goes to usage. If you drive the car on short little trips then the build up is quicker and worse. My car has a ton of long drive highway miles as the original owner was a road warrior for his job.

There is a guy in California that does group buys on this as well and supplies you with a loaner car. He was close to the same price. I cant recall his name but it was similar to BMW and they made him change his company name. Anyone recall his name?

 

404 page not found.

 

http://www.motoringfile.com/2013/05/...ain-tensioner/

 

I do not know why they removed it but here it is


The R56 has been been incredibly successful for MINI in terms of sales and growing the brand. But one issue has stuck around with the R56 since 2007. From 2007 to 2010 the chain tensor (a $15 part) has been failing and wreaking havoc for MINI owners.
Sources are telling us that BMW is prepping a campaign to replace these in affected cars. But they still have not decided what to do with people that have already paid to have the fix out of warranty. To make matters more interesting there are also reports that a California law firm is preparing a class-action lawsuit about the issue.
Of course it’s all a bit of a shame considering the chain tensioner is a $15 part. Additionally it’s compounded by the fact that a lot of the N14s consume oil, and the OBC advises ridiculously long oil intervals. So you get some people who don’t know, and don’t check their oil, chain looses tension, jumps and valves crash into the cylinders. And even if you don’t burn up the engine on low oil you may still wreck the valve train.
What about you? Have any R56 owners dealt with replacing chain tensioners on their own dime? If what support would you like to see from MINI?

 

Hmmm, just picked my car back up. They didn't even test it, said that the warranty people wouldn't ok the tear down, that I would. This is after it sat there for 2 days.
Called the warranty people, livid, because I initially complained about the chain noise within the original 30 day, cover anything part of the warranty, but the mechanic they sent me to knows nothing about minis. I told them it's not my fault you sent me to a mechanic that can't diagnose my car and took 2 days just to research mini timing chains.
After a lot of conversation, they agreed to let me take it to a Euro car repair shop which is out of network for the same deductible as in network. Still don't think I should have to pay, but it's the best I could get them to do. And that was only after I told them that, fine, I'll just drive the car until the engine blows, then y'all can spend a lot more on coverage. The guy even drives a mini and knew all about the issue.
Any chance this will be officially announced soon? Wouldn't mind letting the dealer do it.

 

Read this too
http://www.law360.com/articles/42369...t-class-action
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...in-issues.html

 

http://www.motoringfile.com/2013/05/...ain-tensioner/

 

Any update on this. I repair the timing chain thing earlier this year for around $1000 and I have receipt...would like to get reimbursement for this...

 

Where did you have it repaired? That's a far better deal than my quoted $3500, double that and I could buy a new motor! Mini better cover all the costs!

47,000 miles