Two days ago on my way home from work a check engine light came on, this wasnt the normal CEL displayed on the speedo. This was a half shaded amber engine symbol displayed on the tach. I checked the owners manual and it said this is for "full engine power unavailable". Got home checked the oil as i had been planning to change it that day anyway and found it was a little low (< half a quart) so i changed the oil thinking the low oil may have kicked the light on. Same light was on after changing the oil and the next morning on my way to work. Called the dealer and he said the symbol meant the car was in "safe" or "limp" mode (meaning the car was protecting itself) and to bring it in. Ran to Advanced Auto during lunch hoping to get the code read but they werent able to find anything with the OBD II so dropped it off at the dealer last night. The anxiety is killing me right now as i feel this could be somethign quick and cheap or potentially serious. Anybody have any similar issues with this light? What was the cause? By the way its an 08 MCS with about 65 K.

 

i had on '05 that kept going into "limp" mode the dealer couldn't figure it out. I had about 95k on the car and just thought maybe I should a tune up. After that I didn't have anymore problems.

 

I hope its something simple like a tune up...I'm going to need brakes and tires soon lol.

 

Without a code to tell us what it could be there are many many things that could cause this.

Unless it is a really obscure code it seems strange that a generic reader did not give some kind of code.

But hope all works out well for you.

 

In my case this warning light was thrown by code P2885, an issue with the diverter valve not functioning properly and the car seeing too much or too little boost, i.e. a boost leak or a faulty DV. I unfortunately have yet to pinpoint the exact cause of my issue despite countless pressure and smoke tests, sensor changes, valve checks, etc. As for the local Advance Auto Parts not being able to read it, I had the same issue with mine. I had to go to a place that had the Bavarian Technic tool or something equivalent that can read the MINI's ECU. Best of luck though, hopefully it's just a little leak in the system somewhere, an easy fix.

 

I had the same issue but they are telling me I need a whole new turbo...is that them not knowing what the real problem is?

 

We just dropped off our 2012 Cooper S (8000 miles)off this morning at the dealer.

The CEL has been coming on then going of for the last 2 weeks.Also a discharged battery warning came on once then went out.Yesterday the CEL came on then went to a half shaded light with a message saying something like half engine power ,safe to drive,use caution and take it to a dealer.

They gave us a new Clubman s for a loaner.

Also going to have a couple other warranty items fixed and an oil change.
The dealer had a coupon on their site for a $49.88 oil and filter change.

Sure hope this not the beginning of problems!

 

Possibly over aggressive tune. I had OXSpeed do up a tune for mine and the only time it went into limp mode was when it was super hot outside and crappy gas. BTW saw you on 95 about 3 weeks ago when I was heading to Jersey for MTTS. I think it was Jun 30th.

 

Okay thanks, I'll look into it. How much did you pay for your OXSpeed tune if you don't mind me asking? And yeah that sounds about right, I've been takin a lot of trips up and down 95 recently. Oh and I had to get my flex pipe replaced on the Invidia, I had completely forgotten how good it sounds haha.

 

Dealer was unable to truly diagnose my problem, they got the light to shut off but couldnt pin point why it was tripped in the first place...they did say the turbo has a "small internal leak" they found when doing a smoke test. At this point they didnt reccomend changing the turbo because they couldnt say with confidence that would resolve the issue. Any thoughts?

 

My car did the same thing the other day, but I was on the track. Half shaded engine symbol in tach display, no actual CEL though. Brought it in to the paddock, checked everything out and couldn't find anything wrong. I was 900+ miles from home and at least 45 minutes from a dealer so I unplugged the battery to reset it and that turned off the symbol. Hasn't come back, been almost 2000 miles, 2 weeks, and a full track day since it happened so I figure it's all good. It must not have been happy about being at the track that particular day lol.

My car is completely stock btw, and I was running chevron premium for gas. If there had been an actual CEL with a code I would have pulled it and not gone back out on track...but it was just the limp mode and unplugging the battery reset it, and it seemed to do just fine after that.

 

For me it was the fuel pump. After that it's been all about happy motoring :D

 

I have a 2009 JCW with 60150 miles. Car went in to limp mode, took it to the Mini Cooper dealer and they found a popped hose. Reattached the hose & smoke tested the system. Took it for a test drive and everything seemed fine. I pick the car up and on the way home from the dealer limp mode again. Take it back to the dealer. Code 2885 comes up. Did smoke test - no leaks, checked diverter valve - ok, checked pressure control switch - ok. Service manager asks if mechanic can take my car home to see if he can replicate the problem and get a feel for what is wrong because they cannot pinpoint what is wrong. Service manager (not the mechanic) puts 48 miles on the car at average mpg of 21.6 mpg (beating my car? I get 28.8 mpg). Service manager calls me the next day and quotes $4400 for a new turbo - WTF. I go straight to dealership for an explanation why my car needs a new turbo after being driven by the service manager. Mechanic explains to me that they actually do not know what is wrong, something in the control system is causing a malfunction. The next step in diagnosis is to remove the turbo, check the cat, and check if the wastegate is sealing properly. Approx. 5 hours in labor = $600 to diagnose. Mechanic also tells me that if the car were under warranty, Mini HQ would probably recommend changing the pressure control first ($200 repair) before changing the turbo out. I explain that the light has only come on in sport mode and perhaps I will drive the car to see if the problem happens in normal driving mode or only in sport mode. He says if I bring the car back for either repair/diagnosis he will contact Mini HQ to see if they have more experience with this issue. I ask why that has not been done already since my car has been there twice and they still don't know what is wrong. Answer - it is not under warranty - again WTF! On my way out of the dealership, service manager hands me an estimate for $4400 for a new turbo....after I just spent an hour listening to the mechanic tell me he does not know what the problem is. So far, 50 miles later and no limp mode in non-sport mode. If the light does not come on after a week, I will test sport mode next. Still do not understand why they would be recommending a new turbo when they don't even know what is wrong and have not reached out to Mini HQ. Should I contact the dealer owner? File a complaint with Mini? Bash the dealership on Dealer Rater? Thanks for your thoughts/comments

 

Hey there. So I had the same issue with mine. I've been battling the P2885 issue for almost a YEAR now. After checking everything myself countless times and going to local auto shops, I caved a while back and took the car to the dealership. I figured if anybody can figure out the issue, it would be them.

They had the car for 3 days, couldn't figure it out. The final result, as it was with you, was a complete lack of explanation and the 'suggestion' of paying them a sh*tload of money to replace the turbo. They quoted me 900 to remove the turbo for inspection for something they weren't even sure of.

Since then I've pretty much given up, just waiting and watching what others on NAM with the same issue come up with. For some, it's been the hpfp, for others, the dv, and for a few, the turbo. I've gotten a lot of suggestions, all different, from a lot of different people. Some say my tune is too aggressive, some say its still a boost leak, some say its a faulty dv, some say the turbo's gone, some say its carbon buildup. Honestly, until I get a good amount of money to put into the car, I don't really know what to do. My "plan" or lack thereof is to save up enough money to get my turbo rebuilt by GPop Shop, then replace all my piping, and go from there. This all of course is a ways away though...

Either way, good luck to you, and hopefully somebody can pinpoint the cause of this error code from hell. I've been dealing with Limp Mode since January...

 

Thx for the reply Kalibdor, do you notice if it only happens in sport mode? Any tricks to avoid triggering the code and subsequent loss of power?

 

Hey, so my issue started when I had the car aftermarket tuned. The issue wasn't coming up when I had the car on the stock map, but happens constantly with the tune map loaded, i.e. something that's pressure-sensitive. The more boost, the more likely the problem will occur, the code will come up, and the car will go into limp mode.

Your lack of the issue when not in sport mode could be caused by this, with just a little more strain on the engine after entering sport mode the fault occurs. I've learned a manner of driving to avoid the whole limp mode issue, though it's nowhere near as fun as would be ideal. I can only let the turbo produce so much boost before my car goes into limp mode, so I spool carefully and shift early.

Also, in case you weren't aware, you can always just turn the car off and back on when this problem occurs. The code will remain on the tach, but it serves as a temporary reset, and you get all your power back . So, as ghetto as that is, until I find a real fix I've just been running in that manner. Drive it moderately, and when I do need to get on it, just be careful about how much throttle and when youre shifting.

Good luck again! There's a few threads on here about this issue, (I started one a while back too,) but if I figure anything out before I see it written I'll be sure to post up.

 

"Eventually I tracked the fault down to a faulty temperature / pressure sensor, part number 13627582551 (note this is the JCW part, not cooper S). Once that was replaced it fixed the problem and it didn't recur."

Kalibdor, have you tried replacing this sensor that fixed the issue for Robbo?

 

I have not yet. As I mentioned there have been so many different fixes for different people I'm hesitant about spending any more money on the issue at the moment. When the car was at the dealership for those few days they tested the involved sensors to no avail.

 

Without any clear understanding of the cause of code p2885, I have come to the conclusion that if all hoses are attached, not kinked or adversely affected by heat, split, broken or detached; replacement of one of these three parts should rectify the situation:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...ure/ES1929951/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...iverter_Valve/

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/13627582551/

Since a pressure test does not show any leaks, I think the sensor should be the first to get changed. From there, replace the pressure converter...and finally if that doesn't work, replace the dv. If none of these replacements solve the issue, the next step is remove the turbo to inspect the wastegate and simultaneously check the CAT. Unfortunately if wastegate does not seal, a new turbo is in order, but it seems more plausible that a control component is the issue. Thoughts?

 

What is this BS with this fault code from hell? I get this every few days for a half a mile or so. Sometimes it stayed on for a day's worth of driving. Knock sensor? Massive air leak? I wish Mini never even put in a Safe Mode...

 

I just picked up my 2010 Mini from the dealer after a two day visit for the Safe Mode condition. Mine occurred during a drive back from Louisville to Cincinnati when "safe mode" kicked in after mile #3 of my journey (Oh yeah, that was fun...). Limped it back 99 miles to the dealership and they found the wire for the DMTL and Fuel Injection power supply had become chaffed at the R/R control arm. Fault codes were 2D6B, 2D6A, 2D68, and 2D69. They Found the wire chaffed and shorted, so they relocated and re-insulated the wire harness. Back to Happy Camper status once again.

 

I had that light come on several weeks ago during an Autocross....

killed my run.... later killed my wallet as my turbo oil seals were blown as well as my PCV system.... oil all through the intake and intercooler.

Hope you have better luck then me! That was my first real ouch in my wallet repair for my 2007!

 

got into my car from work it was very cold outside and she went into limp mode 3 miles per hr home got home and shut car off went back out and restarted it in the morning it was still in limp mode took it to my shop check the antifreeze and it was good for 0 degree and with the windchill it was 10 below so flushed it all out put new in it and it was good for 60 below the half shaded engine on the dash and tach went out and it ran fine for a few days and now its right back in limp mode. i am completly stumped please give me ideas on what to try. if it sits outside in the cold and acts up and i let it sit in a warm shop for an hour or so then shes fine again for a bit, then go driving and im right back to where i started.

 

I had an issue with the Cold start and going into "safe mode". When I pulled it out of the garage in the morning it was fine but after sitting out in the cold while I'm at work it would display the CEL and go into a "safe mode". Took it to a service department that has the Mini software and it was throwing the 2880 code for HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) failure. They confirmed it with the fuel pressure check and it was well below tolerance. Took it to the Mini dealer and they confirmed all this, replaced the HPFP and no issues based on the Mini service bulletin. There are numerous other threads on this issue.