R56 what kind of oil filter and engine oil do you use?
what kind of oil filter and engine oil do you use?
I'm planning to change the engine oil by myself. please let me know recommendation for brand and price, Thank you
Last edited by yyj3869; Jan 15, 2012 at 12:38 PM.
Only use OEM filters. We've had problems with aftermarket filters.
Also we have a kit if it's your first time.
R56 oil change kit
Also we have a kit if it's your first time.
R56 oil change kit
I get filter kits (includes o-ring and crush washer) from the dealer for around $10 (as i recall last time I bought - I pick up more than one a visit). I prefer to use the OEM but have had luck with MANN for GEN1 (I change oil for some local owners too - they are either not mechanical or don't have a garage) In the early days there were many who had problems with filters from other than MINI ... seems to be not so today but why take chances?
Lately I've been using Mobil One 0-40 European Car Formula which I find at WalMart for around $6.50/qt - about a dollar a quart less than any auto part store around me. Previously I used CASTROIL (sp?) - just be sure you get 100% synthetic, not a blend . . . if you can find the 5 qt containers you may get it at a better per qt price. I've had folks bring over many different (full syn') names and weights (within reason) and have yet to see anyone have a problem. But note I live in Florida and cold weather performance is not much of an issue around here.
If you find you must buy filters over the web - don't buy one - the shipping will kill you. Buy 'em by the half dozen (some vendors have deals); or buy other stuff you might need at the same time to consolidate shipping $$. If you buy other than MINI, be sure you get a crush washer seal (may have to buy sep'ly)
Lately I've been using Mobil One 0-40 European Car Formula which I find at WalMart for around $6.50/qt - about a dollar a quart less than any auto part store around me. Previously I used CASTROIL (sp?) - just be sure you get 100% synthetic, not a blend . . . if you can find the 5 qt containers you may get it at a better per qt price. I've had folks bring over many different (full syn') names and weights (within reason) and have yet to see anyone have a problem. But note I live in Florida and cold weather performance is not much of an issue around here.
If you find you must buy filters over the web - don't buy one - the shipping will kill you. Buy 'em by the half dozen (some vendors have deals); or buy other stuff you might need at the same time to consolidate shipping $$. If you buy other than MINI, be sure you get a crush washer seal (may have to buy sep'ly)
Last edited by Capt_bj; Nov 6, 2011 at 02:35 PM.
I only use OEM filters and have used MANN on occasion.. they are made in Germany and may even be the company making them for MINI.
Tried Mobil 1 5W-30.
MINI brand oil
Castrol Gold
Amsoil
BEST = Amsoil.....for 4-5K miles it runs/sounds like I just changed the oil.
And I never burn a drop.
WORST = Castrol Gold was terrible. Engine ate it up like it was going out of style.....
Tried Mobil 1 5W-30.
MINI brand oil
Castrol Gold
Amsoil
BEST = Amsoil.....for 4-5K miles it runs/sounds like I just changed the oil.
And I never burn a drop. WORST = Castrol Gold was terrible. Engine ate it up like it was going out of style.....
Been using the same (OEM filter Mobil 1 0w-40) with zero side-effects or oil consumption.
As noted above, DO NOT use an aftermarket oil filter; the quality is not up to par.
- Erik
As noted above, DO NOT use an aftermarket oil filter; the quality is not up to par.
- Erik
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I've only used OEM filters and oil. The OEM filters seem to be cheaper than those at Pep Boys or NAPA. Also, the spec'd out oil from MINI/BMW really isn't any more expensive than other places either.
I only use OEM filters and have used MANN on occasion.. they are made in Germany and may even be the company making them for MINI.
Tried Mobil 1 5W-30.
MINI brand oil
Castrol Gold
Amsoil
BEST = Amsoil.....for 4-5K miles it runs/sounds like I just changed the oil.
And I never burn a drop.
WORST = Castrol Gold was terrible. Engine ate it up like it was going out of style.....
Tried Mobil 1 5W-30.
MINI brand oil
Castrol Gold
Amsoil
BEST = Amsoil.....for 4-5K miles it runs/sounds like I just changed the oil.
And I never burn a drop. WORST = Castrol Gold was terrible. Engine ate it up like it was going out of style.....
+1 to Amsoil
This is what I use and recommend:
Purflux L358 oil filters or MINI branded filters (same filter)
Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula, Castrol 0W-30 (AKA "German Castrol"), or MINI branded motor oil 5W-30. - These oils are all approved by MINI. There are 2 additional oils on the list (Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra 5W-30 and Valvoline SynPower 5W-30) but I have not used them.
http://www.miniusa.com/#/contactFaq/faq/maintenance-i
Whatever oil you choose make sure it meets the BMW LL01 requirement.
Purflux L358 oil filters or MINI branded filters (same filter)
Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula, Castrol 0W-30 (AKA "German Castrol"), or MINI branded motor oil 5W-30. - These oils are all approved by MINI. There are 2 additional oils on the list (Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra 5W-30 and Valvoline SynPower 5W-30) but I have not used them.
http://www.miniusa.com/#/contactFaq/faq/maintenance-i
Whatever oil you choose make sure it meets the BMW LL01 requirement.
I went the dealer route as well. I figured that A. the factory knows best what my car needs, B. if something goes wrong they can't blame my choice of oil and filter, and C. the dealer gives a generous 20% discount if you're a member of the St. Louis MINI Club.
Spridget
Spridget
This is the best advice I can offer. Cant tell you how many times I saw people with mechanical engine issues and come to find out they used Amsoil or Royal Purple. Now Im not saying these are bad products but from experience working at a dealer for ten years they are not all they are cracked up to be IMO. After all those who designed the engine really know best.
I think I'm going to use the fluid evacuator,liquivac
LiquiVac Small Engine Model (capacity 3 quarts) http://www.liquivac.com/buyonline
do you guys think it's enough capacity?
LiquiVac Small Engine Model (capacity 3 quarts) http://www.liquivac.com/buyonline
do you guys think it's enough capacity?
I think I'm going to use the fluid evacuator,liquivac
LiquiVac Small Engine Model (capacity 3 quarts) http://www.liquivac.com/buyonline
do you guys think it's enough capacity?
LiquiVac Small Engine Model (capacity 3 quarts) http://www.liquivac.com/buyonline
do you guys think it's enough capacity?
...but I assume that you can use it in two stages...
I am happy with the Mann filters. I only use Walmart oil in the Mini, Vette, and Camry (synthetic for the first two). The Camry has well over 200k miles on Walmart dino oil and burns about 1/2 what the Mini burns on synthetic.
OEM filters and mini branded 5w30 syn oil. I have used Mobil1 euro blend 0w40 in the past. I have been able to get the filters for $11.25 and the oil for $6.75 a quart at a relatively local mini dealer.
Do please provide an example of what happened to someones engine running Amsoil? What mechanical issues are we speaking of and are we sure they are lubrication related? I find that driving like a moron and going from red line 4th gear into 3rd will damage any engine regardless of oil.
I ran Mobil 1 in my race CBR600rr for two seasons and each season we saw considerable wear on the engine to the point where it needed machining. Also, shifting (because this is a wet clutch I am talkin about) was horrible as I got into my 5th or 6th lap. When I switched to Amsoil not only did my engine temperatures remain normal the entire race my clutch operated like a champ too. When the season was over on my 3rd race season we only put in new rings in the engine and fired her back up because the wear was no where near what it would have normally been with Mobil 1. There are plenty of Dry Clutch Ducati guys that switched to Amsoil and never looked back as well in the event my scenario is going to be 'invalidated' due to it being a wet clutch.
I have yet to see anyone 'destroy' their engine using a specific brand of oil. Some people go the cheap $19.99 oil change route and we all know what happens with those engines later in life. Mobil 1 is excellent stuff you can get anywhere and will work fine (used it in my Trailblazer and it had over 250,000 miles on it when I sold it). Amsoil has always been my preference and thankfully I am dealer so I just order it for myself and use it.
The problem is that with cars you can't really recognize the difference a high quality oil does for the engine because you aren't sitting directly on top of it. For non-turbo non-high performance low stress situations I choose Mobil 1. For turbo, high performance and/or high stress environments I choose Amsoil hands down.
I ran Mobil 1 in my race CBR600rr for two seasons and each season we saw considerable wear on the engine to the point where it needed machining. Also, shifting (because this is a wet clutch I am talkin about) was horrible as I got into my 5th or 6th lap. When I switched to Amsoil not only did my engine temperatures remain normal the entire race my clutch operated like a champ too. When the season was over on my 3rd race season we only put in new rings in the engine and fired her back up because the wear was no where near what it would have normally been with Mobil 1. There are plenty of Dry Clutch Ducati guys that switched to Amsoil and never looked back as well in the event my scenario is going to be 'invalidated' due to it being a wet clutch.
I have yet to see anyone 'destroy' their engine using a specific brand of oil. Some people go the cheap $19.99 oil change route and we all know what happens with those engines later in life. Mobil 1 is excellent stuff you can get anywhere and will work fine (used it in my Trailblazer and it had over 250,000 miles on it when I sold it). Amsoil has always been my preference and thankfully I am dealer so I just order it for myself and use it.
The problem is that with cars you can't really recognize the difference a high quality oil does for the engine because you aren't sitting directly on top of it. For non-turbo non-high performance low stress situations I choose Mobil 1. For turbo, high performance and/or high stress environments I choose Amsoil hands down.
This is the best advice I can offer. Cant tell you how many times I saw people with mechanical engine issues and come to find out they used Amsoil or Royal Purple. Now Im not saying these are bad products but from experience working at a dealer for ten years they are not all they are cracked up to be IMO. After all those who designed the engine really know best.
Do please provide an example of what happened to someones engine running Amsoil? What mechanical issues are we speaking of and are we sure they are lubrication related? I find that driving like a moron and going from red line 4th gear into 3rd will damage any engine regardless of oil.
I ran Mobil 1 in my race CBR600rr for two seasons and each season we saw considerable wear on the engine to the point where it needed machining. Also, shifting (because this is a wet clutch I am talkin about) was horrible as I got into my 5th or 6th lap. When I switched to Amsoil not only did my engine temperatures remain normal the entire race my clutch operated like a champ too. When the season was over on my 3rd race season we only put in new rings in the engine and fired her back up because the wear was no where near what it would have normally been with Mobil 1. There are plenty of Dry Clutch Ducati guys that switched to Amsoil and never looked back as well in the event my scenario is going to be 'invalidated' due to it being a wet clutch.
I have yet to see anyone 'destroy' their engine using a specific brand of oil. Some people go the cheap $19.99 oil change route and we all know what happens with those engines later in life. Mobil 1 is excellent stuff you can get anywhere and will work fine (used it in my Trailblazer and it had over 250,000 miles on it when I sold it). Amsoil has always been my preference and thankfully I am dealer so I just order it for myself and use it.
The problem is that with cars you can't really recognize the difference a high quality oil does for the engine because you aren't sitting directly on top of it. For non-turbo non-high performance low stress situations I choose Mobil 1. For turbo, high performance and/or high stress environments I choose Amsoil hands down.
I ran Mobil 1 in my race CBR600rr for two seasons and each season we saw considerable wear on the engine to the point where it needed machining. Also, shifting (because this is a wet clutch I am talkin about) was horrible as I got into my 5th or 6th lap. When I switched to Amsoil not only did my engine temperatures remain normal the entire race my clutch operated like a champ too. When the season was over on my 3rd race season we only put in new rings in the engine and fired her back up because the wear was no where near what it would have normally been with Mobil 1. There are plenty of Dry Clutch Ducati guys that switched to Amsoil and never looked back as well in the event my scenario is going to be 'invalidated' due to it being a wet clutch.
I have yet to see anyone 'destroy' their engine using a specific brand of oil. Some people go the cheap $19.99 oil change route and we all know what happens with those engines later in life. Mobil 1 is excellent stuff you can get anywhere and will work fine (used it in my Trailblazer and it had over 250,000 miles on it when I sold it). Amsoil has always been my preference and thankfully I am dealer so I just order it for myself and use it.
The problem is that with cars you can't really recognize the difference a high quality oil does for the engine because you aren't sitting directly on top of it. For non-turbo non-high performance low stress situations I choose Mobil 1. For turbo, high performance and/or high stress environments I choose Amsoil hands down.
I don't trash on amsoil and have never used it. But there's been a few high and mighty Amsoil reps who've gotten onto some boards I've been on that have really soured the brand name for me. Wonderful sales techniques to push someone away from your brand.
After a service tech at my dealership showed me what the old Mann filter (that I had installed) looked like when he pulled it out, I'll never use those again.
It's strictly OEM filters for me!
It's strictly OEM filters for me!
Dealer is much cheaper for approved oil than the auto parts store. If I can't make it to the dealer I get Mobil 1 0W-40 European formula.
Last edited by strobeyprobey; Nov 18, 2011 at 11:54 AM.








