I tried to go through the last couple pages of posts before asking my question. What tool do you need to loosen/remove the drain plug from the oil pan on my R56? I know the procedure on my R53, but this is my first oil change on the R56. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

It's technically a 13mm socket or wrench. Some have found a 1/2" fits a little better, especially if it has been over-tightened by some ne'er-do-well.

 

Or it could be an 8mm hex key. Good luck.

 

IMO, the best recommendation is to NOT reuse the OEM pan plug. Instead, purchase one with a bolt head on it so the next time you change oil it is not a problem of possible stripping the OEM one. Good luck...also, you may want to check out super dimples...Richard has a magnetic oil pan plug that may interest you.

 

It's technically a 13mm socket or wrench. Some have found a 1/2" fits a little better, especially if it has been over-tightened by some ne'er-do-well

that's a GEN1 . . . .

He's asking about GEN2 - R56

that's 8mm hex

be careful, others have found a torx will go in the hole .... but once you have the bung in your hand you plainly see it is a hex . . .

I don't see any reason to replace the GEN2 bung myself . . . the stock fits flush and leaves less chance of messing up a protruding head which is why a Fumoto is a very very bad idea on a GEN2 . . . and fortunately unlike the GEN1, the GEN2 uses a typical metal crush washer for the seal . . .

 

So it is and so he is...

 

A 8mm allen wrench tool from "Pedros" bicycle tools (bike pedal wrench) has a screwdriver handle and a 90 degree bend...this works wonderful for removing the drain plug on a R56. See this link: http://www.pedros.com/hexpedaldriver.htm

 

Yes R56 uses an 8mm hex for the oil drain plug.

 

You're all right, its The 8mm Allen. Just make sure you replace the seal, ring, IT WILL LEAK otherwise. Its a different tool for the oil filter as well, I'm pretty sure its a 27mm Socket to take that loose.

 

The part number listed in the (apparently) Fram-supplied database used by Pep Boys is incorrect. As of 9/3/2011, there is no stocked Fram oil filter for the R-56.

The manager at my local Pep Boys was nice and accepted an oily filter for exchange.

Use the Purolator part instead as of 9/3/2011. The R-56 uses the smaller of the two alternatives (SOHC vs DOHC).

 

It is

 

i recently did my first oil change, i had to buy tools for it also. a t50 torx bit fit mine just perfectly.

edit: most people here are saying its hex, they may be right, i failed to look at it once it was off, but like i said, mine fit perfectly

 

Good! I mistrust Fram filters anyway; I think they're super-cheap and should not be used on any car you actually want to keep.

 

If you are under warranty, best to use factory filters. I have read stories somewhere about 3rd party filters failing. The factory filter comes with the copper crush washer, and rubber O-ring. Cost is $9-15 depending on qty and source.

Torque oil filter cap to 18.5 ft. lbs., drain plug to 22 ft. lbs. If you are stripping the plug with a T-50 Torx, you are probably over-tightening it.

 

I need to change the oil in my 07 r56 S. Last time, I took it to a guy that is MINI certified, but isn't at the dealership anymore, and he put in Titan 5w-30, but told me it was only good for 3000 miles instead of the 15,000 mile oil that the dealership uses. Now I need another oil change, and I don't want to go to him or the dealership. What are some good brands of oil to use so that I can get back to the 15,000 mile oil change schedule instead of just every 3,000 miles? What else (besides oil) would I need to do this myself? I've never done an oil change myself, but I'm afraid that a lube shop like Jiffy Lube would just put in the cheapest crap they have, regardless of how good it is for the car, and I can't afford to pay this guy $150 every three months for an oil change.

 

sounds to me like he used a standard dino oil and that would be very bad . . . altho the only Titan 5w-30 I find by a searcgh says it is a full synthetic so I don't know why he says only 3000 miles. (of course many owners completely disapgree with the factory recommended interval anyway so go ahead and change every 3000).
You might want to ask around for an independent BMW mechanic. The first guy I found to work on my MINI (back in 2002) was a BMW guy and found the MINI easy to work on due to the similarities to the small beemers

to DIY you'd want

the filter kit - I prefer to use the factory one as it comes with the o-ring and plug seal, both of which should be replaced with the filter

oil of choice. I use Mobil 1 0w-40 European Formula which is usually on the shelf at my local Wally World for abount a buck a quart less than the auto part stores.

An 8mm wrench or socket to remove the bolt holding the coolant overflow tank which must be moved out of the way (just remove the holding bolt and twist the tank out of the way. DO NOT remove the hoses and/or remove the tank)

a 27mm socket to remove the oil filter canister - and a long extension for your socket. I find I need about 8 inches of reach.

an 8mm allem wrench or socket to remove the oil drain plug

a low profile oil catch pan - I find I can get a shallow pan under the car and drain the oil w/out needing to lift the front end at all. The drain plug is easily reached - MUCH mre easily than the GEN1 was.

The is a DIY in the "how to" threads here, but it has a couple of errors so be careful. It won't bite you but use common sense especially wrt what tool to use . . .

Or just bring it by with your oil ... I'll change it for you and even sell you the filter for cost.

 

That's a pretty sweet tool for removal. I've been wrapping my socket drive in a gallon-size Baggie to keep the oil out of it but that's such a PITA.

Likely you'll still need the 8 mm socket anyway to use with your torque wrench when reinstalling the plug to make sure it's torqued correctly.

 

First time changing oil, it has 3200 miles. regarding the copper washer for the bolt. Am I supposed to add the copper washer or am i supposed to remove the one thats on it before. And if i am to remove it, how do y'all remove it.. it's pretty schmooshed.

 

if the old one did not fall off, which is common

then just pry it a lil'

but

worst case would be needing to use a screw driver to pry it up

but usually they fall free

think of this as a washer that you need to change . . . .

 

Remove the old one, just might need a little extra persuasion, it will come off. Probably torqued a little tighter at the factory. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs).
Good luck.

 

I just added to it and hopefully it'll fall off the next change I'll do.

 

man.. this dipstick is redonkulous! I think I over filled but I can't really tell. I let some oil out and the level hasn't moved. If there's too much oil.. smoke would start coming out of the tail pipe, right?

 

My local hardware store was out of 27mm sockets. I got a 1 1/16" socket. It's almost exactly the same size, but was actually a buck or two cheaper than the metric one. :shrug:

 

I have been using MINI recommended Castrol Syntec 5-30 (Walmart 5 qt container is $26.00). The Bently service manual recommends changing the oil at 7,500 miles even though the computer may let you run it for over 15K miles (depending on how you drive). The manual also has procedures for resetting the engine computer's condition based service (CBS) counter. We extended our service agreement to 6 yrs/100K miles. I change the oil inbetween the times the dealer changes it. I would like to talk to the genius that decided on the placement of the oilpan drain plug!