R56 How does one remove the rear seats?
"Pulled back seat out next. Back seats have a clip in the center - no need to remove the 3 bolts holding the seat anchor - just use a flathead screwdriver to push a metal spring plate to one side and the inside of the seat lifts right up. To the the seat loose from the side lean the seat forward at ~45 degree and and it slide out. The bottom cushion is clipped to the floor at the front outside corners. There is also a clasp at the back center of the seat. It's hard to describe how to get it loose but lift the cushion up to ~45 degrees and push down at the back center of the seat then pull forward while pushing down." - MotorMouth
Is this from the boot hatch, looking at the back of the seats? What panels do you have to remove to get at this clip? How do you remove the panels? I haven't worked on one of these snap-together cars. Actually, it has been decades since I worked on cars...
I accessed the seat anchor (the one that holds the centers of the seat backs) from the back. You could probably access it from the front too. That is the one you use a flathead on.
The bottom cushion is probably easist to remove after you've taken the seatbacks off but not necessary. Work on it front the front side.
The bottom cushion is probably easist to remove after you've taken the seatbacks off but not necessary. Work on it front the front side.
No plastic has to be removed. I'm not sure why people are talking about a flathead screwdriver, though.
From the back of the car, in the hatch, look between the two seat back halves. There's a 10mm bolt visible down at the bottom. It's part of a metal latch assembly. Loosen that 10mm bolt until the top plate of the latch can open up - it's hinged at the front.
Start with the driver's side seat. Get the center side of the seat half to come out of the hinge, then rotate the seat to a 45° angle to pull the pin out of the outboard side of the car.
From the back of the car, in the hatch, look between the two seat back halves. There's a 10mm bolt visible down at the bottom. It's part of a metal latch assembly. Loosen that 10mm bolt until the top plate of the latch can open up - it's hinged at the front.
Start with the driver's side seat. Get the center side of the seat half to come out of the hinge, then rotate the seat to a 45° angle to pull the pin out of the outboard side of the car.
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The R56 seats are very similar to the R53 seats to remove [both front and rear]. I've removed my rear seat backs and bottoms and rear seat belts to shave a few pounds [about 45# combined]
You do have to unclip the seatbacks from the center pivot holder, then position the rear seats backs about 45 degrees forward to unkey them from the side panels. It's not difficult once you do it a few times like I have, but 1st timers will struggle as it is a bit awkward. To remove the rear seatbelts you'll have to unscrew and un-pop the the C-pillar cover and the rear boot side carpet. The rear seat bottom just unclips with a firm tug upwards on the front of the cushion, then pull towards the front of the car to unclip the rear of the bottom. Remember to remove the baby-seat anchor things first, they just pull out with a yank.
Cheers,
Ryan
You do have to unclip the seatbacks from the center pivot holder, then position the rear seats backs about 45 degrees forward to unkey them from the side panels. It's not difficult once you do it a few times like I have, but 1st timers will struggle as it is a bit awkward. To remove the rear seatbelts you'll have to unscrew and un-pop the the C-pillar cover and the rear boot side carpet. The rear seat bottom just unclips with a firm tug upwards on the front of the cushion, then pull towards the front of the car to unclip the rear of the bottom. Remember to remove the baby-seat anchor things first, they just pull out with a yank.
Cheers,
Ryan
Right, forget about the wrench and looking for the bolt. There isn't one on the r56.
The previous quote is correct (see below). The black clips, or metal spring plates, between the seatbacks need to be pressed toward the centre. A large flat screwdriver driver did the job for me. Once the clip it released, reread the quote below, and it all become clear and easy.
---
"Pulled back seat out next. Back seats have a clip in the center - no need to remove the 3 bolts holding the seat anchor - just use a flathead screwdriver to push a metal spring plate to one side and the inside of the seat lifts right up. To the the seat loose from the side lean the seat forward at ~45 degree and and it slide out. The bottom cushion is clipped to the floor at the front outside corners. There is also a clasp at the back center of the seat. It's hard to describe how to get it loose but lift the cushion up to ~45 degrees and push down at the back center of the seat then pull forward while pushing down." - MotorMouth
---
The previous quote is correct (see below). The black clips, or metal spring plates, between the seatbacks need to be pressed toward the centre. A large flat screwdriver driver did the job for me. Once the clip it released, reread the quote below, and it all become clear and easy.
---
"Pulled back seat out next. Back seats have a clip in the center - no need to remove the 3 bolts holding the seat anchor - just use a flathead screwdriver to push a metal spring plate to one side and the inside of the seat lifts right up. To the the seat loose from the side lean the seat forward at ~45 degree and and it slide out. The bottom cushion is clipped to the floor at the front outside corners. There is also a clasp at the back center of the seat. It's hard to describe how to get it loose but lift the cushion up to ~45 degrees and push down at the back center of the seat then pull forward while pushing down." - MotorMouth
---
The previous post to your was over 3 months ago.
I might as well bring this up to date. The seats are out and I've finished Dynamating and insulating the left side. Here is a shot before I put the left side panels back in. A carpeted floor (birch 1/2" plywood) will cover the area where the seats were. A wall/cabinet sort of thing will separate cargo area from the front seats area.

The area that the speaker hole leads to is filled with a cotton batting designed for acoustic insulation. What you see in the speaker hole is a piece of foam that MINI had put inside the cavity. I used it just to form a nicer closure to the speaker hole. The Dynamat took a lot of time. I hope it all turns out to be worthwhile.
The 6x9 speakers (HIFI) are being replaced by Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6''x9'' 3-ways. I will build an MDF cabinet for them that will be incorporated into a barrier between the front seats and the back cargo area.
I chose Kappas over Focals because they have two input connections -- one for the woofer and one for the mid-range dome & tweeter. This better matches the wiring of the HIFI system. The HIFI amp has the crossovers built-in and sends two pairs of wires for each 6x9 location. I'm a little concerned that the crossovers wont match the Kappas as well as their own crossovers would, but I'm not sure what I could do about it.

The area that the speaker hole leads to is filled with a cotton batting designed for acoustic insulation. What you see in the speaker hole is a piece of foam that MINI had put inside the cavity. I used it just to form a nicer closure to the speaker hole. The Dynamat took a lot of time. I hope it all turns out to be worthwhile.
The 6x9 speakers (HIFI) are being replaced by Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6''x9'' 3-ways. I will build an MDF cabinet for them that will be incorporated into a barrier between the front seats and the back cargo area.
I chose Kappas over Focals because they have two input connections -- one for the woofer and one for the mid-range dome & tweeter. This better matches the wiring of the HIFI system. The HIFI amp has the crossovers built-in and sends two pairs of wires for each 6x9 location. I'm a little concerned that the crossovers wont match the Kappas as well as their own crossovers would, but I'm not sure what I could do about it.
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