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Hey everyone! I've been a member on here for a little while now but have never had to post b/c I've always been able to find what I need by searching. I am not having much luck and hopefully once I describe what's happening, someone with some knowledge may be able to help me avoid taking this to a dealer. It's a 2009 Clubman JCW with 148,xxx on the clock, 6 speed manual. I've already replaced the thermostat, cross pipe, water pump, and pressure converter. I'm from MN and purchased this car in California on Memorial Day weekend and drove it home. No issues. Replaced the above a month or two after owning it and now I have an issue with either the turbo or the vac system. Car has been running great and one day I went to pass a car and I got the half lit CEL on the tach....not speedo. It has the CC-ID 029 code which doesn't pinpoint any issues. Recently, my turbo (%) guage will only go to about 80%. If I drove it easy and didn't let turbo wind up, the CEL on the tach would go off but if I tried to 'get on it' and wind up the turbo, as soon as it hit 80% and wanted to go higher, boom, the CEL would come back on. I recently replaced the pressure converter and I thought maybe one of the hoses slipped off so without taking Air box off, intake hoses, etc., I tried to reach around and feel it and while doing so, I touched a hose (not sure which one, doing by feel), it hissed (releasing air...engine off), I touched the same hose again and it hissed again. I ended up pulling air box off and pulled out the pressure converter and the hoses were attached and everything looked fine. Put everything back together and when I went to drive it, I only get to about 65% turbo now. I checked the vac pump and there isn't any oil seepage anywhere and hoses are clean. The only things I haven't checked are turbo related, diverter valve and wastegate. I was hoping with this scenario writeup, someone may be able to identify the issue? The car idles fine and it runs great other than the turbo not going to 100%. I have changed plugs, air filter, seafoam treatments, blah blah blah but this is my first turbo so learning as I go. I've done all the work myself and I believe this is something I can do as well.....I just don't know where to look. My plan is to pull the diverter valve this afternoon and see what that looks like. Could that be the issue?? Any guidance or potential fixes would be greatly appreciated. I'm 2 hours from a dealer and I'd rather keep money in my pocket if you know what I mean. Thanks in advance!!
A quick Google search for CC-ID 029 leads me to believe tis the high pressure fuel pump. If you have 148+k miles on the car, it is possible to have lived its life to the full. If the pump is going out, I would find it plausible for the pump to provide enough pressure at lower rpms, but not be able to give enough for higher rpms.
The fuel pump, however, might be unrelated to your low boost pressure. Have you checked the condition of the PCV tube that goes from the rear of the cam cover to the intake manifold? The tube is made from cheap plastic, and can start to crack and leak with age.
A quick Google search for CC-ID 029 leads me to believe tis the high pressure fuel pump. If you have 148+k miles on the car, it is possible to have lived its life to the full. If the pump is going out, I would find it plausible for the pump to provide enough pressure at lower rpms, but not be able to give enough for higher rpms.
The fuel pump, however, might be unrelated to your low boost pressure. Have you checked the condition of the PCV tube that goes from the rear of the cam cover to the intake manifold? The tube is made from cheap plastic, and can start to crack and leak with age.
That was what I thought at first as well but if that was the case, wouldn't my fuel economy go to crap?? As it sits, I'm getting 35+ mpg, have 2 'bars' on my fuel guage and currently sitting at 385 miles on the tank so roughly 420 miles to a tank. That's super good mpg and I'd think if it was the HPFP, it wouldn't be near that good? I'm not sure on this though. Car runs great, other than the turbo not going above 65%. Idles fine, accelerates fine....until that turbo stops climbing?
Yeah, read that already! Haha. I only use shell gas so I don't believe that's the issue. I really don't think it's the HPFP either. I think I'd have way more issues then it presents. I'm going to purchase a new diverter valve today so when I pull the old one off, just going to replace it. Hopefully (hope is not a good strategy), that brings her back to life.
For what its worth, when my HPFP went out, there was no warning. Went to get onto the highway, the car stumbled, threw the half-power light, and that was it.
For what its worth, when my HPFP went out, there was no warning. Went to get onto the highway, the car stumbled, threw the half-power light, and that was it.
How long will the HPFP go once you start seeing "issues". I've had this issue for 2-3 weeks maybe? I just ordered a new diverter valve, picking up tomorrow morning, and swapping it out. I'll update once I get that swapped out. Also, the PCV hose looks ok, I may replace it just cuz. I've done a number of seafoam treatments through that hose so very familiar with it. I also pulled the wastegate vac line off last night and it looked fine. No oil in it, or any of them for that matter so guessing it's not that. What does get me though is when I "reached" around to 'feel' the hoses on the pressure converter (before removing air box, hoses, etc), I hit a hose that let out a bunch of air and I did this twice, engine off. After I did that, my boost went from around 80%, to now 65%-ish. Whatever I touched, that could potentially be the issue but like I said, I was doing this blind before removing air box and such so I don't know exactly what hose I was hitting to release that air. That can't be normal?!?!
How long will the HPFP go once you start seeing "issues". I've had this issue for 2-3 weeks maybe? I just ordered a new diverter valve, picking up tomorrow morning, and swapping it out. I'll update once I get that swapped out. Also, the PCV hose looks ok, I may replace it just cuz. I've done a number of seafoam treatments through that hose so very familiar with it. I also pulled the wastegate vac line off last night and it looked fine. No oil in it, or any of them for that matter so guessing it's not that. What does get me though is when I "reached" around to 'feel' the hoses on the pressure converter (before removing air box, hoses, etc), I hit a hose that let out a bunch of air and I did this twice, engine off. After I did that, my boost went from around 80%, to now 65%-ish. Whatever I touched, that could potentially be the issue but like I said, I was doing this blind before removing air box and such so I don't know exactly what hose I was hitting to release that air. That can't be normal?!?!
Couldn't tell you on the fuel pump. I had mine replaced that same day it threw the code.
Its possible you have a decaying vacuum line, which would cause the wastegate not to close fully. The vacuum accumulator is under the intake manifold. The pressure converter is back there, too. Follow the vacuum line from the wastegate or the vacuum pump to find them. Check all the lines, or just replace them all.
So I replace the diverter valve this weekend and that didn't fix the issue. The diaphragm was cracked so it needed replacement anyway but still only getting about 60-70% boost, according to the guage.
So I replace the diverter valve this weekend and that didn't fix the issue. The diaphragm was cracked so it needed replacement anyway but still only getting about 60-70% boost, according to the guage.
Did you check your hose for any leaks or cracks? Maybe the hpfp is getting ready to go?
Did you check your hose for any leaks or cracks? Maybe the hpfp is getting ready to go?
I did a quick 'once over' when I checked out the pressure converter last week and then when I pulled off the diverter valve this weekend. Going to do a more 'thorough' inspection in the coming days, check waste gate, then go from there. I might just replace all the vac lines and see where I'm at then proceed. Trying to troubleshoot the inexpensive way instead of throwing $$ at it with no avail. This is my first turbo so learning as I go here. Other than the turbo not going above 60-70%, the car runs great. Idles like a champ, no sputter, and takes off to beat hell until you hit that 60-70% boost range. One thing that is weird is the half lit CEL on the tach is on all the time now when I fire up the car and for a while there (before I touched that line that hissed), it would only come on if I got on it and tried to build boost. If I drove it "nicely" I could get it to go away. Now......it's on all the time no matter how 'easy' I drive her??
If you don't have one already, before throwing more money at it, get yourself a BMW/Mini code reader, such as the Foxwell NT530. It will read more than just the generic OBD codes, and tell you exactly what is going on with the car. IT will tell you why you have a half-engine light, so you can continue the diagnostics with confidence.
If you don't have one already, before throwing more money at it, get yourself a BMW/Mini code reader, such as the Foxwell NT530. It will read more than just the generic OBD codes, and tell you exactly what is going on with the car. IT will tell you why you have a half-engine light, so you can continue the diagnostics with confidence.
Very sound advice from Njaremka. Trying to diagnose a Mini without a code reader is an exercise in frustration.
Suggest you do the following:
1) Replace ALL vacuum hoses - car is more than old enough to justify. Waste of time to "check" vac hoses. Cheaper to replace. Hissing hose noted above is a dead giveaway hoses are rotten or a plastic nipple has cracked.
2) If the turbo is OE, the wastegate is far past the point of junk at 147K. Replace the turbo or inspect to verify failed/worn wastegate pivot shaft.
3) Get a code reader to monitor HPFP pressure vs. limp mode. Very tricky to diagnose the HPFP unless it has failed catastrophically. The ECU only commands the pressure required. Any fault condition will halt pressure rise.
4) If arrival of limp mode is accompanied by misfire, suspect bad coils even if no coil codes are present. Mini's OBD II code sucks at detecting bad coils and at differentiating faults in general.
Very sound advice from Njaremka. Trying to diagnose a Mini without a code reader is an exercise in frustration.
Suggest you do the following:
1) Replace ALL vacuum hoses - car is more than old enough to justify. Waste of time to "check" vac hoses. Cheaper to replace. Hissing hose noted above is a dead giveaway hoses are rotten or a plastic nipple has cracked.
2) If the turbo is OE, the wastegate is far past the point of junk at 147K. Replace the turbo or inspect to verify failed/worn wastegate pivot shaft.
3) Get a code reader to monitor HPFP pressure vs. limp mode. Very tricky to diagnose the HPFP unless it has failed catastrophically. The ECU only commands the pressure required. Any fault condition will halt pressure rise.
4) If arrival of limp mode is accompanied by misfire, suspect bad coils even if no coil codes are present. Mini's OBD II code sucks at detecting bad coils and at differentiating faults in general.
Thanks for the input. I bought a code reader but not a BMW/Mini one. I thought I read somewhere that the half CEL on the tach doesn't store codes in the computers memory but also remember reading something about a "secret" screen where these can be identified. I am going to start with replacing the vac lines and with that said, how many are there? Thought I read somewhere there is 5 but I could be mistaken. I really appreciate the help as the only code that comes up is the generic CC-ID 029 code which can be a multitude of things......usually pertaining to the vac system and/or electrical. Again, thanks for all the advice and/or input!!
So after dealing with the issue for most of the winter, I ordered some parts and decided to dig into it. I ordered new vacuum hoses, new PCV hose, idler puller, belt, and water pump pulley as I had what I thought to be a baring going out on one of the above. Figured since I was in there, I’d just replace it all with 150k on the clock. Long story short, I took off the air box and was trying to find where the vacuum hoses go to under the manifold only to find out both hoses were disconnected. I replaced vacuum hoses and PCV hose, put everything back together and took her for a spin and bingo, problem solved. Turbo/boost goes to 100 and she runs like I stole it. Guessing somewhere along the line the 2 hoses that connect under the manifold came off and when I replaced the pressure converter I didn’t notice and/or check. That’s all it ended up being and now I have a bunch of spare parts for a summer project. Thanks for all the advice and info along the way. She flies again and I couldn’t be more excited!! Thanks again for everyone’s help and advice!!!!
