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R55 Good God I bought another clubby, advice please

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R55 Good God I bought another clubby, advice please

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Old 12-02-2018, 07:22 AM
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Good God I bought another clubman is now "2008 MINI CLUBMAN S RESTORATION"

Well I've been looking for a clubby as a parts car to strip and use the best parts on mine to get it closer to perfect. I found one with a blown engine (2008 manual S) that is fully loaded. Its an S so i figured the usual timing chain or vacuum pump issue killed it and it has less than 90,000 miles. When I picked it up the owner told me it just wouldn't start one day and her mechanic told her 10,000 for a new engine. Ouch! Since it wasn't a catastrophic failure while running I popped off the valve cover to have a look. The top chain guide is broken off but the chain is still attached. So this rules out the vacuum pump. I can see no bent valves under the cams. I'm going to get my bore scope (not a camera scope) and have a look in the cylinders today. I'm keeping my fingers crossed there is no valve or piston damage. Then it will just be a timing chain change and drop the oil pan to find the old parts and have a fully smacked out clubby.

When the valves get bent, from being out of time, does it usually show up from under the the cams? Or in other words can you see obvious damage to the valve stems without looking at the valves in the bore?
 

Last edited by I like mini clubman's; 01-16-2019 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 12-02-2018, 05:31 PM
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Update

I took the timing cover off for a look see. Found a few parts of the upper guide on top and down in the timing cavity. I looked down in the cylinders with a bore scope and didn't see any piston top damage or major scoring on the walls. This isnt a camera it's an actual scope and not as good as a camera but nothing seen is good news. It doesn't look like any valves are bent either. I'm of the opinion that the guide was gone for a while and it was a cascade of events led to its eventual no run situation. Looking at the dirt accumulated inside the car leads me to the belief that it didn't get excellent care. It does appear to have had regular oil changes though but that's it. The vavle cover was pissing oil out both pcv ports, the plugs could be close to original, the battery is deader than a door **** and timing is off. It appears to have been off for a little bit since I see an oily carbon residue at the rear exhaust outlets. I dropped a little oil in each cylinder and turned it over. The cylinder walls appeared to have some washing from fuel being dumped in it. When it was turned over there were no odd noises.


 
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Old 12-02-2018, 09:39 PM
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check to see if there is any bent valves, if not do the chain and see if you can get it running.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/timing...-cooper-s.html
 
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Old 12-02-2018, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks View Post
check to see if there is any bent valves, if not do the chain and see if you can get it running.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/timing...-cooper-s.html
sorry Way I'm in Canada, you don't ship here. not a problem though your help is always excellent.
 
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  #5  
Old 12-03-2018, 10:37 AM
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Yikes, sorry to see that. I would check everything out. You would be very lucky if something did not break. Let us know what happens after you replace the chain.
 
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  #6  
Old 12-09-2018, 12:02 PM
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Advice please

Valve lash on the n14? I know it's not adjustable but I'm checking for bent valves. I think the easiest way to check would be by valve to rocker clearances. Anybody know this number? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 12-09-2018, 01:24 PM
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Ok getting down in there its pretty tight to get a regular feeler gauge between the rocker and valve. It does not appear to have any loose rockers when the valves are closed. There is a little side to side play but no rocking as in too much gap. So I may have gotten lucky and bought a car with just a skipped tooth and no damage. 🙏
but why why why do they melt the intake hoses to each other? Sweet Jesus what a friggin pain. I'm going to pull the intake since I'm this far in and blast the valves. I've already purchased the tools to do this on my other clubby.



Notice the exhaust cam is in the correct position but the intake is clocked off 10 to 20 degrees. I think the valves are just touching but the tensioner is giving way while rotating.

Any gains by deleting the noise maker and turbo muffler?
 
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Old 12-09-2018, 04:41 PM
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Anything else I should look at while I'm in this deep? Water pump looks like it's metal and has been on a while .
 
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Old 12-10-2018, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by I like mini clubman's View Post


Notice the exhaust cam is in the correct position but the intake is clocked off 10 to 20 degrees. I think the valves are just touching but the tensioner is giving way while rotating.
is that while the crankshaft is locked?
 
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe View Post
is that while the crankshaft is locked?
No, the crankshaft is not locked. I'm still waiting on parts and doing some exploring. I had no time to work on it today but I should have a full day tomorrow to dig into it some more.
Any thoughts on the valve lash idea?
 
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:50 PM
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I do too. But it is not accurate in some cases. In one occasion, i though 1 valve was bent becuase the rocker can easily be removed. So i ordered one lol. After i took the head out, i think all 8 were bent lol...do compression though before the tear down. Who knows they might've been saved.
 
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Old 12-11-2018, 07:39 PM
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Looks like I may have a bent valve. I can slightly hear air moving out of cylinder 4 with a leak down test. Not an actual leak down test, just holding the air line on with a fitting that fits in the plug hole. Crude but its telling me what I need to know. Definitely does not move air through the crankcase so that's good news. I'm going to pop the head off tomorrow. I'll sleep better at night even if there is nothing wrong. I'll slip in some new valve seals while I'm at it. It will also give me the opportunity to check the cylinder walls too.

what's the best spring compressor for these heads?




The vacuum lines from the pump to the turbo vacuum canister underneath the intake are soaked in oil and like wet noodles. I dont know how they were still attached or if they even were. It looks like the vacuum canister is full of oil. Oil was on the engine at the back and this is the only thing soaked in oil back there. I may change waterpump, tube and thermostat while this thing is apart. The vanos solenoid was partially plugged on the screen with filter lint. I'm going to clean future filters before installing them.
 
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Old 12-16-2018, 04:34 PM
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I have been doing more work to the clubby. I took the head off because I was getting a bit of air passing the exhaust valves during a leak down test. I thought that I may have had some bent valves. Well I got lucky and there is no bent ones unfortunately the thing was choked with carbon everywhere. Not just the back of the intake valves but also the piston tops, head and exhaust valves. I took it to a shop to have them disassemble the head and touch up the valves and seats. They could not believe this engine ran LOL.
while I've got this much apart I've decided on a new clutch and and some other know problematic parts need replacing. Who would have thought that someone could restore a 2008 car? Subframe has been derusted today along with prime, paint and a rocker guard coat. One more coat of paint then I will add an internal rust preventative to the sub frame.
 
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:53 AM
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All the suspension parts that I removed have been cleaned and painted. The new clutch and pressure plate has been installed. I'm glad I went are ordered one as the one in the clubby was starting to hit the rivers on the pressure plate side. There is a little blueing and some heat cracks on the flywheel but I cleaned it up and I'm going to live with it. This will never be a track car just a poser LOL. The head should be finished today. They were waiting for me to bring them the valve seals. I'm still waiting on the output shaft seals for the transmission, hopefully they will be in today and I can get the transmission back together.


 
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:25 PM
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I'm a glutton for punishment

So now the engine is on the ground and I've just about disassembled everything. Going full speed now and have just about new everything or it's gonna look like new when I'm done. All mounts and suspension parts have been painted and those that can fit in the oven have been baked. Good thing I'm single or maybe it's the reason? LOL. Going full tilt to have a new 2008 mini clubby and havin fun at my hobby, what more could I ask for? I'll load some more pictures of the mess soon. I'm still waiting on a few parts and a crank holding tool for the timing chain install. Meanwhile I'm busy clean, blasting, grinding and painting everything. I disassembled my front calipers for sandblasting and paint. I gave the dealer a call for the heck of it and it was $55 Canadian for one friggin seal set for one caliper! So I said, how much for a new caliper? I heard him say "whoa" under his breath, clear his throat then say $525!!!! rockauto.com to the rescue, All four wheels AND the front axle nuts delivered to my door for less than ONE bloody seal set from the dealer.
 
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Old 12-23-2018, 08:03 PM
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A little painting progress today. Baked some more parts in the oven. Turbo heat shields baked to 325 degrees after 225. Both temp one hour each so hopefully they will hold up. I'm also putting a blanket under the shields along with down pipe wrap. It's a pain cleaning the aluminum cages for the engine and gearbox. Mini didn't come with a colour for the engines so I picked Chevy orange 😎




 
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:35 AM
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finally getting some colour under the hood. I've got a new 2.5 inch down pipe coming along with a turbo blanket and exhaust wrap. I'm going to try and decrease the under hood temps as much as possible. I will be relocating the cat to under the car and wrapping to it. Moving the lower o2 sensor also. If anyone one knows of an extension to move the lower o2 futher back I'd like to hear about it. Going 2.5 exhaust also. I'm going to do some more cleaning of the engine bay and drop the rack and pinion today. That should be the last part to clean and paint.
 
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Old 01-01-2019, 08:15 AM
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More work done. The motor is installed with new water pump, crossover tube and thermostat. I will be working on the new vacuum pump system today and I'm hoping to have it hidden where the noise maker used to sit. I've got my new cheap Ebay down pipe installed with both it and the manifold wrapped. Just waiting on the turbo blanket to come in so I can install the upper heat shield.
I've disassembled the valve cover and it looks like I can turn it into an oil catch can itself. What a job that was cleaning that thing. It is the original valve cover from 2008 and it was dumping oil out the pcv system. The original diaphragms were hard and brittle and broke up upon removal. I may still temporarily install a catch can just to confirm that the rework on the cover is performing properly.




This is the pcv elbow that went on the intake. It will be used at the valve cover and the other, straighter one will be used at the intake as a vacuum source for the turbo and brakes.
 
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Old 01-01-2019, 06:00 PM
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Did some work today. New in "valve cover" oil catch can made. I'm going to also install a remote occ to see if the work done to the valve cover is functioning.

Here is the cover disassembled and cleaned out. Ten years of burnt oil in that thing. Nasty

This and the next picture shows the nipple extention im installing


Cleaned up the floor with a hole saw for a flush fit.

Measured depth for the nipple lenght.

Looks good. I did the same for the other side.

I drilled four 1/8 holes in both nipples. This will slow and redirect airflow

Cut out the little stand offs for the old diaphragm

Nice and clean and ready for the special ingredient

Nothing to see here

Ahhh the special ingredient has arrived

Tada! Oil filtering media.

This side will provide fresh air to the system. I melted a hole throgh the cover so it sealed the two layers together. There is another layer below this cavity. I didnt want fresh air bypasing the inner valve cover and going straight out the turbo side. I blocked the hole, that connected the two sides together, with a bolt. Now air has to flow under the valve cover and draw out fumes before going through the filter media to the turbo.

The cover is glued down with high temp silicone and screwed to secure it.

The little flap doors that were in the ends were removed to prevent possible blockage and covers glued and resecured.

Ready for the cover to be glued on.

No one would know the difference. Hopefully this 2008 valve cover is resurrected. This system ive come up with would still work with with the line going to the intake also. You would just have to buy a $3 dollar in line pcv valve to prevnt full engine vacuum from sucking on the cover. Im using the intake port for my vacuum source to operate my brakes and turbo.
 
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Old 01-03-2019, 07:43 PM
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Been busy last couple days. Crankshaft holding tool came in today so in between other things I was able to finish up the engine. The 180 on the crank wasnt so bad with the crank tool, but the 180 on the vanos was a pain in the ****. Small bolt to put that much torque on. Everything was put on with locktight blue. I dont want to take chances for those who frown on that. I couldn't for their of me find the motor mount torques. A little reading in chiltons says " put them on securely " hummm?
I've also been working on the vacuum system. I should be able to mount the pump inside the cowl along with the solenoid for a nice clean hidden appearance. Where the old brake booster vacuum line came through the cowl I've now got the intake line feeding in. I'm not going to use an auxiliary vacuum tank as I think the small one for the turbo and the brakes should be fine enough. If there is a problem I can always T in another reservoir if needed. Well its at least hanging by its mounts again tomorrow I'm dropping the oil pan to get the junk out.


 
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Old 01-07-2019, 07:38 AM
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Wow! Looks like you're having a blast! Congrats on the progress so far. Looking forward to updates - particularly excited about what you're doing with the valve cover and the vacuum system.
 
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Old 01-08-2019, 08:36 AM
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Starting to remove the vacuum pump drive mechanism. I will be reinstalling the enpty housing and using an electric pump.

Here it shows the rivet that hold the camshaft drive to the rotary vane drive.

Tapped and installed a set screw into the oil passage hole. This will no longer be needed.

A little JB weld on the threads to lock it in place.

Here are the new half shafts all painted up.


Sandblasted subframe several coats of paint, rocker guard and clearcoat. I also coated the inside with a mixture of used motor oil chain and bar oil and boild linseed oil. About a 25 25 and 50 percent mix in that order.

Cleaned and cleaned and degreased the rack and pinion. Got all the corrosion off with various wire wheels and dremmel. I used rust converter to seal it up. It imparts a nice clearcoat finish and the converter darkens the aluminium just a bit. This rust converter spray can is my new best freind.

Some bad and good news also. I wanted coilovers more for stance but had decided to just clean and repaint the original ones on the car for now. I've already spent a wack on a car that I've never heard running LOL. I took the left side strut off, disassembled, cleaned and painted everything. Then I took off the right side and the strut was totally wiped out. This is probably why the control arm bushing on that side was done in also. So here we go again. I ordered the godspeed Max's, new 22 mm rear sway bar and adjustable rear lower control arms. It was going to be around 500 just for stock replacements with the sports suspension. I couldn't justify spending that money and then spending again in a year to replace those with coilovers. Gotta love Ebay for us Canadian shoppers. The shipping and import fees kill us. Rockauto.com is another great source along with Amazon. This car will never be tracked or run in the winter. It's also not my daily driver. It's now going to live a pampered life as a fun car to go with my other two I have.
 
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Old 01-08-2019, 07:00 PM
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I got the subframe and steering rack installed today YAY!!! I forgot about the sway bar WHAAA!!! 😫 Oh well it's not the first thing to go on and come back off.

Time to knstall the new axle seals into the transmission. I dont own a set of seal drivers hmmm?

Got a little creative and found that the dicarded peice of noise maker pipe fits and worked perfectly. I tryed to do it with a 2x4 no way that was happening.

Nicely seated

After fighting to get the new lower control arm bushings on for an hour i, once again finally got creative with my spring compressors and a c clamp vise grip. Took a out 30 seconds for the second one, literally.

tomorrow I will lower the subframe again and install the arms and sway bar.
 

Last edited by I like mini clubman's; 01-16-2019 at 06:12 AM.
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Old 01-16-2019, 06:37 AM
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I haven't been getting g a ton of actual work done to the mini. Lots of ancillary stuff and some development of a set of hood vents that will work on the r56 and 55 or any mini with the same hood. I drew up a set on cad and sent it off to be cut. I'm going to pick it up today, just the first prototype test pattern.
here are a few pictures of the front suspension going back together.

Notice ive got the brake shield on backwards, dangit

Here we go all correct now. Still waiting for the godspeed mono maxxes


A little elbo grease and some paint sure makes it look nice. No more evidence of it being zubjected to Canadian winter's

Here is the oil cooler remote plate installed. I got it off of Alexander Marshall, he has a YouTube channel called monster mini build.heck of a nice guy who loves his cars also. My oil cooler will have a mechanical thermostat plus a fan and thermostat. I am welding three bungs on the backside of rhe oil pan. One for a new easy drain valve, another for a oil temperature gauge and the third one will turn on the oil cooler fan at 210 degrees. The xooler will be mounted below the new hood vents.

Here is the vacuum pump mounted to the plastic diverter insied the cowl.

This is it installed , it should clear the waper arm. If its close ive got a half inch that i can lower it.

Trying to work out the size of the center traingle vent. Im not a fan of removing structure from the hood so im trying to fit the largest vents i can inside the existing braces.
 
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:30 AM
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First hood vent test part is completed. Very happy with the outcome so far. I used some heavy 16 gauge metal, it gives it lots of strength but is a bit hard to bend without a bender and roller to make a nice smooth bend. It's going to take a bit to develop this to where I'm 100 percent happy with it. I may end up doing a small production run with these and I want it to be an easy and straightforward installation process.


Still working on louver bend height.


Putting the vent on a curved panel really adds a different dynamic and it needs some thought.

This is the best place on a mini r56 or 55 for a vent. Rain water isnt near most things and almost zero hood brace cutting. Just a bit of trimming of excess metal flanges on the braces. Im not a fan of removing structure its there for impact safety.

Still deciding on what to do with the front part of the flap. MIni logo? Or holes?
like the post heading says, all input is welcome guys.
 

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