R55 Questions about buying a 2008 Clubman S
Thread Starter
|
Neutral
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
Questions about buying a 2008 Clubman S
I'm going to look at a 2008 Clubman S in the next day or so.
It's a 2008 Clubman S Auto with 108,000km on it. He is asking $10,500CDN
The seller lists that he has done the following in the past year, It seems like these are all known issues, but half of me is thinking if he's spend $6500 in the past year on the car, is this trend going to continue when I buy it.
Is there anything in particular I should look for when I look at it/take it for a test drive?
- Valve decokeing service (May 2016)
- Timing chain replacement (February 2016)
- Turbo oil supply line (February 2016)
- Thermostat housing (February 2016)
- Front brake pads and rotors (February 2016)
- Emergency brake cables, left and right (December 2015)
- Rear brake pads and rotors (October 2015)
It's a 2008 Clubman S Auto with 108,000km on it. He is asking $10,500CDN
The seller lists that he has done the following in the past year, It seems like these are all known issues, but half of me is thinking if he's spend $6500 in the past year on the car, is this trend going to continue when I buy it.
Is there anything in particular I should look for when I look at it/take it for a test drive?
- Valve decokeing service (May 2016)
- Timing chain replacement (February 2016)
- Turbo oil supply line (February 2016)
- Thermostat housing (February 2016)
- Front brake pads and rotors (February 2016)
- Emergency brake cables, left and right (December 2015)
- Rear brake pads and rotors (October 2015)
Here's a few:
Shine a flashlight on the serpentine belt to see if it looks new. Should not be any sign of cracking or fraying.
With engine at idle remove the oil filler cap and listen for any timing chain noise (death rattle.)
Look for any oil or water leaks in the engine compartment. Park on clean pavement and watch for drips.
Check for any rounding of the front strut towers.
Check area around battery for any rust or corrosion.
Look underneath at jacking points to see if floorpan is straight, not bent.
If possible, examine suspension bushings for cracking or drying out.
Check door lock actuators and power windows.
During test drive listen for any rattles or thumping noises that might indicate loose or worn suspension components.
Hope this helps, and please let us know if your decide to purchase!
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
Shine a flashlight on the serpentine belt to see if it looks new. Should not be any sign of cracking or fraying.
With engine at idle remove the oil filler cap and listen for any timing chain noise (death rattle.)
Look for any oil or water leaks in the engine compartment. Park on clean pavement and watch for drips.
Check for any rounding of the front strut towers.
Check area around battery for any rust or corrosion.
Look underneath at jacking points to see if floorpan is straight, not bent.
If possible, examine suspension bushings for cracking or drying out.
Check door lock actuators and power windows.
During test drive listen for any rattles or thumping noises that might indicate loose or worn suspension components.
Hope this helps, and please let us know if your decide to purchase!
Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 365
Likes: 6
From: Denver, CO
You could add to the list of future repairs-
Valve Cover - The CCV is built into the cover and when it fails you have to replace the cover. It's easy to diy @ $350+
Oil Filter Housing gasket - Gaskets $40+, but a difficult time consuming diy.
Water pump - Original has a plastic impeller, replace with a metal impeller.
Valve Cover - The CCV is built into the cover and when it fails you have to replace the cover. It's easy to diy @ $350+
Oil Filter Housing gasket - Gaskets $40+, but a difficult time consuming diy.
Water pump - Original has a plastic impeller, replace with a metal impeller.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post