R55 :: Clubman Talk (2008+) Discussions revolving around the extended wheelbase Clubman (R55) model.

R55 Almost $3000 difference between 16 vs 17 inch wheels?

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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 11:59 PM
  #1  
Parkerton's Avatar
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Almost $3000 difference between 16 vs 17 inch wheels?

So in my Clubman configuration, I ordered the "R90" 16 inch wheels which cost $816. In contrast, the 17 inch version of the same wheel is $3650!!! For only $816, I'll gladly go with the 16 inch option.

I understand that the bigger wheel would cost more, but four times as much??? Am I missing something here? Is there really that big of a difference? Can someone tell me why the 16 inch is $816 while the 17 inch is $3650?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Parkerton
So in my Clubman configuration, I ordered the "R90" 16 inch wheels which cost $816. In contrast, the 17 inch version of the same wheel is $3650!!! For only $816, I'll gladly go with the 16 inch option.

I understand that the bigger wheel would cost more, but four times as much??? Am I missing something here? Is there really that big of a difference? Can someone tell me why the 16 inch is $816 while the 17 inch is $3650?
What 17" wheels were you going for. Mine only added $500.00 to the cost.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 04:24 AM
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Just the difference in production volumes, I'd expect. The 16s are fine and the best choice for most people; the 17s are heavier, which is never a good thing, and use thinner tyres, which harshen the ride.

But some 17s do look better!
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 04:34 AM
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I haven't looked at these in the configurator - are you sure you didn't select a whole package that contained the wheels?

Note that Outmotoring sells the 17" R90's for less than $500 each. And used or new take-off wheels come up for sale on the NAM marketplace and ebay fairly often for well less than $1000 per set.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 04:54 AM
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Basically, it boils down the the fact that the dealerships (which is who you get the 17in R90 from in the configurator) are charging you full retail for 4 R90s ($419 ea) and 4 retail Dunlop Runflats say SP Sport 01 DSST's ($283ea) plus $800 in mounting, alignment, TPMS, etc. Morristown MINI has the set for 2920 in the 06 category and 3120 in the Clubman category. I don't know the what the difference is since I've heard the old R90s should fit both the R50/R52/R53 and R56. I have an 05 set on my late 06 with no problems. As to the rest of you question, I guess they give you a discount on the 16" wheels and don't on the 17's, but that's just my best guess. If it where me I'd go with stock wheels and then pick up some R90s after those tires wearout (which is what I did). Plus there is a guy selling the new JCW wheels in the marketplace for 2k shipped. If they are the Challenge spokes that would be a good deal too and they are similar to the R90s in look.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 06:55 AM
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The reason for the price difference is that the 16" BBS R90 is one piece while the 17" BBS R90 is a two-piece wheel (hence the bolts). Multi-piece wheels cost a great deal more than one piece wheels.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 09:53 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Rally@StanceDesign
The reason for the price difference is that the 16" BBS R90 is one piece while the 17" BBS R90 is a two-piece wheel (hence the bolts). Multi-piece wheels cost a great deal more than one piece wheels.
This would make the most sense to me, however, they look identical in the configurator. They both have bolts. At least they both appear to have bolts. Can it be that the 16" has faux bolts?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 09:56 AM
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Like Rally said, one piece wheel for the 16's...so yes, faux bolts!!


 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 10:09 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by tpetro33
Like Rally said, one piece wheel for the 16's...so yes, faux bolts!!


Are two piece wheels more structurally sound than one piece? Or does two piece just become necessary because of the wheel style and size?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 10:22 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by tpetro33
Like Rally said, one piece wheel for the 16's...so yes, faux bolts!!


I have the 16" R90s and there are no bolts, faux or otherwise.

Heres a thread with pics of mine.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 10:58 AM
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those 16" R90s look like a b*i*t*c*H to keep clean... if they came in anthracite....
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 11:26 AM
  #12  
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From: oh10
Originally Posted by Parkerton
This would make the most sense to me, however, they look identical in the configurator. They both have bolts. At least they both appear to have bolts. Can it be that the 16" has faux bolts?
in real life the 16's don't have bolts. The configurator isn't always the most accurate.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by sequence
those 16" R90s look like a b*i*t*c*H to keep clean... if they came in anthracite....
The 16's only come in silver AFAIK. They aren't very hard to keep clean. I wash them once a week and have gotten pretty quick at it - a couple of minutes per. I do a more complete cleaning job when they come off for tire rotation.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 11:29 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by SteelersFan
I have the 16" R90s and there are no bolts, faux or otherwise.

Heres a thread with pics of mine.
Oh, I feel like a bonehead. Yes, I thought by bolts, people meant the inner bolts that all wheels have. But yes, the R90's don't have bolts on the outer edge. Thanks for the pictures in the other thread, now I'm even more excited to get them!
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 11:31 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Rally@StanceDesign
in real life the 16's don't have bolts. The configurator isn't always the most accurate.
Right.

16" = One piece + NO Bolts & Easy to clean IMO
17" = Two piece + Bolts & Hard to clean IMO
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 11:35 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Parkerton
Oh, I feel like a bonehead. Yes, I thought by bolts, people meant the inner bolts that all wheels have. But yes, the R90's don't have bolts on the outer edge. Thanks for the pictures in the other thread, now I'm even more excited to get them!


Cool. Glad I could help. Make sure to post pics of your car when you get the R90-16's installed. Can't wait to see a Clubman with them on!
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 12:14 PM
  #17  
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IMO, factory wheels are a very bad deal. They are very heavy, and way over priced. Get the cheapest standard wheels and go with aftermarket wheels. You can then use the cheap factory wheels for snow tires, or sell them in the Marketplace forum here. I sold the 22.5 lb. Crown Spoke 17" wheels (2007 Sport Package), and runflat tires there quite easily.

I ended up with a set of 16 lb. 17x7 wheels for about $750, and a set of 16x7 Rota RB for a bit less. The 16x7 (stock size is 16x6.5") are good for a 205/50-16 or 205/55-16 tire. That is the same tread width as the 17" factory wheels have. Stock for the 16" is 195. I find that I like the 205/55-16 for a daily driver tire. It has the extra traction of the stock 17" and the ride comfort of the 16".

Unfortunately, two of the Rota RBs were damaged in an accident. I'm taking the opportunity to switch to a set of Rota Slipstream 16x7 that are gunmetal with a polished aluminum lip. They will be easier to clean than the RBs, and they only weight 14 lbs.

A lighter wheel has less inertia, so it will take less energy to accelerate and brake. It will also give a smoother ride because there is less inertia for the suspension to damp.

If you like runflat tires, you might look at the cost of getting the size wheels you want and having them put on the new wheels, vs. getting a smaller factory wheel and getting new wheels, and tires from tirerack.com.

I abandoned the runflats for standard tires. IMO, a compressor with Slime and a patch kit will get you to a tire place as well as a runflat. The runflat will save you having to get out, but neither will help with a catastrophic tire failure (tire comes apart). Most leaks are actually slow enough that just putting air in it will let you limp to a tire shop. If it is faster, just use a Dynaplug kit or Slime compressor. Most of my flats have been discovered while parked. Lost air overnight.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 12:35 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Robin Casady
IMO, factory wheels are a very bad deal. They are very heavy, and way over priced.
What is it about wheels from the factory that make them heavy?

I can see how the 17" R90's are over priced at $3650. But the 16" R90's I'm getting seem more than reasonable to me at $816. Maybe if I ever decide to get more serious about wheels, I'll go the after market route.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 02:08 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Robin Casady
IMO, factory wheels are a very bad deal. They are very heavy, and way over priced. Get the cheapest standard wheels and go with aftermarket wheels.

I ended up with a set of 16 lb. 17x7 wheels for about $750, and a set of 16x7 Rota RB for a bit less.
The only flaw here is that cheap wheels like Rotas are actually a DOWNGRADE from 90% of the OEM wheels available....especially the R90's and a few others which are made by BBS. Although they might be cheaper and lighter....they are a lower quality than the wheels you get from the factory.

They may look "cooler" because they are aftermarket and offer a polished lip or something special....but generally the finish and strength of wheels such as the Rotas are substantially lower than OEM wheels. I'd take the R90 over a Rota any day of the week due to the higher quality and reliability of the BBS wheels. Rotas are especially known for having trouble with strength issues. It allows them to be much lighter and cheaper in cost....but they get damaged much more easily.

This isn't to say that all aftermarket wheels are downgrades.....you can get some great wheels from SSR, Works, BBS, TDR, Fikse, etc....but you'll find that these wheels come with a higher price. The OEM wheels really aren't that bad of a deal considering what you're getting.....
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 04:51 PM
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MINIs produced after September of 2007 all come with TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems); and unlike the wheels of earlier MINIs they require sensors mounted inside the wheel rim. The wheels have to be manufactured with this feature in mind and the mounting "shelf" or area has to be included when the wheel is cast. Accordingly, many of the aftermarket wheels offered today won't work with the factory MINI system. That's one advantage to using the factory wheels.

I recently ordered a set of Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 wheels, but had to wait 4 months for TD to produce and ship from the factory a set which accomodated the TPMS sensors. All the new ones from TD have this feature.

The other "downside" to changing to non-runflats is that you can't readily use the "green slime" approach to getting up and running following a flat on the highway. (Fix-a-Flat, Conti Comfort Kit.) The material may foul up your sensor requiring replacement, and I hear they're pricey. In essence you have to make a much harder decision than in the past when you want to "ditch the funflats" for a better tire or better ride.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 08:48 PM
  #21  
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The TPMS sensors are not that expensive. I think they run like 50 bucks or so.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 06:43 AM
  #22  
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The coolest thing about 16"s is that you can find winter tires to fit them with. You can get all seasons for larger wheels but I haven't found winter tires for any thing larger than 16". I have some 18"s with pirellis and they're just great for the summer. I'm sure 16"s with winters will transform the MINI into a snow-conquering beast (compared to all seasons).
 
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