R55 What is your feeling about tire insurance?
My dealer was only selling it for $500 and I didn't think it was worth it. Some people do. I figured for a little more than that I could pick up a whole set of used wheels and new non run-flat tyres. And my MA was kinda dodgy about answering the questions I had about it (like if I put winter wheels/tyres on it does it cover them, too? What about when I replace the OEM rubber?). It may have been worth it if she could have said and given me proof that yes, it covered any wheel and tire that I put on my car for a few years for any hazard. But since she couldn't or wouldn't, I got the feeling, right or wrong, that it'd be wasted once I replaced my runflats (which I do during the winter and plan to when they wear).
It depends on the price they are selling it for and what it covers. I have one that covers tires and rims for 5 years. As long as you stick with the same size tires the car came with it covers any tires I put on it. You have to read the fine print and see exactly what your getting. I didn't get mine from the dealer I bought my car from because they wanted like $700!! I have never needed it, knock on wood, but considering the price of the tires, if I have one problem its paid for itself. I live in Houston also, and with all the construction we have its bound to happen sometime.
In the past 8 years (my memory is foggy beyond that) my wife and I have had 6 new cars, about to get a 7th. Over that course of time I have never bought tire insurance, and have needed to have 2 tires plugged. Total cost out of pocket: $0 - Les Schwab did each of them for free. Now, if I did have insurance, I probably would have had 2 new tires. But buying insurance, even at a relatively low $400 per car, means each tire would have cost me $1200.
Gee, I wonder why the dealerships are pushing tire insurance.
Gee, I wonder why the dealerships are pushing tire insurance.
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I would really just buy new tires when they go bad and get a lifetime warranty on the new ones. It would be much cheaper. No sense paying that up front when you can get them replaced later on for less.
My one warning is: if you go low pro, better have your a** covered. I had some 50 profile wheels on my car and i blew them out a few times. They don't have much flex and some good road debris or uneven pavement may end your fun real quick. Anyone considering 17's should think about it, and definitely have some kind of plan for 18+.
My one warning is: if you go low pro, better have your a** covered. I had some 50 profile wheels on my car and i blew them out a few times. They don't have much flex and some good road debris or uneven pavement may end your fun real quick. Anyone considering 17's should think about it, and definitely have some kind of plan for 18+.
I said no to my dealers limited attempts at selling me the tire insurance. Yes, I know the run-flats are expensive, but I'm sure I'll put non-run flats on next time. For tires that only last about 20k miles, I just can't see it.
On a related note, I didn't get the warranty on my Goodyear Eagle F1s on a previous car (second set of tires on it). About a month later I got a nail in the sidewall. $220 for a new tire later, I added the tire warranty to all the other tires too for another $80. NEVER used it. Its just a freak thing. Your protecting yourself against tire replacement, not simply repairs. Repairs aren't that much money.
Jon W.
On a related note, I didn't get the warranty on my Goodyear Eagle F1s on a previous car (second set of tires on it). About a month later I got a nail in the sidewall. $220 for a new tire later, I added the tire warranty to all the other tires too for another $80. NEVER used it. Its just a freak thing. Your protecting yourself against tire replacement, not simply repairs. Repairs aren't that much money.
Jon W.
I didn't get it at $550, tire went flat and it couldn't be repaired, so out of the dealer, I didn't have time for anything else, in and back out for a court date in an hour, $319.00 for one OEM replacement. I am opting for a new set of tires later from Tire rack with their warranty on all four tires it will be about $175 per tire or $700. That seems like a better investment than $550 just for tire insurance.
Not a believer in it. I "roll with what I got". I don't have a history of blowing out tires or running over stuff. It could always happen, but after 30 plus years of driving, it just hasn't been a problem for me. (Knock on wood) I don't want to just give money away for something I likely will never use. If I need a tire, I'll just buy one. My wife did recently pick up a nail in her sidewall and I had to do just that, buy her a new tire, but hey, it just wasn't that big a deal. Admittedly, had it been a runflat like mine, it would have hurt more!
I personally have found it to be worth it. My dealer cost was $825. I read the fine print and it covered any tire and wheel damage tot he original wheels and tires plus any replacement tire put on the original wheels. It also will replace all four tires if any single tire is damaged and replacing it would make a difference of 4000 miles or more between tread wear on the new compare to the existing tires.
The reason i believe in it is:
2-1/2 years ago on my BMW we hit some road debris in a construction zone. Damaged two tires at $192 each and on wheel at $495. Less than 3 months later again road debris in a construction zone, another tire at $192. Then 9 months ago in Boston had the choice of getting hit broad side or running up a curb, Took the curb and there was another tire and rim as well as a lower control arm. Total cost $1256. of which $687 was for tire and wheel. Unfortunately that car doe not have the tire and wheel insurance, and most road hazard claims will not cover jumping curbs or construction zone hazards as they consider the road to be closed. I found this out the hard way after paying for the "Road Hazard Insurance" My total out of pocket expense for tires and wheels $1758.
I would say read the terms and condition carefully and be sure you understand them. If you don't understand any part of the terms then ask questions and get the answers in writing. Then make a decision based on that information.
The reason i believe in it is:
2-1/2 years ago on my BMW we hit some road debris in a construction zone. Damaged two tires at $192 each and on wheel at $495. Less than 3 months later again road debris in a construction zone, another tire at $192. Then 9 months ago in Boston had the choice of getting hit broad side or running up a curb, Took the curb and there was another tire and rim as well as a lower control arm. Total cost $1256. of which $687 was for tire and wheel. Unfortunately that car doe not have the tire and wheel insurance, and most road hazard claims will not cover jumping curbs or construction zone hazards as they consider the road to be closed. I found this out the hard way after paying for the "Road Hazard Insurance" My total out of pocket expense for tires and wheels $1758.
I would say read the terms and condition carefully and be sure you understand them. If you don't understand any part of the terms then ask questions and get the answers in writing. Then make a decision based on that information.
I wouldn't buy it. I don't even buy the cheap insurance when I get new tires. If you get a flat and the insurance only covers the flat tire, you'll end up buying a second tire anyway because they should be bought in pairs.
At the prices quoted above, I wouldn't get it from the dealer. I would use the factory tires until dead then buy aftermarket tires with road hazard warranty. The warranties, usually about $20/tire from Discount Tire, have been been a good investment for us. We have had a number of tires replaced over the years.
Tire insurance is always going to be a gamble. In my 20 years of driving I've had one blowout on the highway (not even my car).
Two damaged rims (one pot hole at night which didn't even make the tire loose air, and one curb when I hit a patch of ice in a parking lot). These were OEM rims on my 95 Mitsu Eclipse GST, about $300 each if I recall, and I don't think I had to replace the tires on those.
I've had a handful of tires with slow leaks that I was able to have patched or just used a fix-a-flat to get another few months/year out of until I was ready to replace them. I think I've had to replace two valve cores that caused slow leaks.
On the A4 I had it cost about $1000 for four new tires, but I never had a flat on that car. Although I went through two tire changes since the performance tires wore quickly.
Like all insurance, you're paying now to offset the risk of paying later for something that might happen. When it comes to the cost of a car, tires and rims aren't really all the expensive in my book. I'd rather take the $500-$700 and put it in savings so it's available if I need it.
BUT, my tire and rim history isn't really all that bad. If the roads where I lived caused me to damage one tire a year I might reconsider. Lower profile tires might also make me change my mind.
BMW/MINI certainly isn't loosing money on this, but it's all about comfort level and what risk you're willing to take.
Two damaged rims (one pot hole at night which didn't even make the tire loose air, and one curb when I hit a patch of ice in a parking lot). These were OEM rims on my 95 Mitsu Eclipse GST, about $300 each if I recall, and I don't think I had to replace the tires on those.
I've had a handful of tires with slow leaks that I was able to have patched or just used a fix-a-flat to get another few months/year out of until I was ready to replace them. I think I've had to replace two valve cores that caused slow leaks.
On the A4 I had it cost about $1000 for four new tires, but I never had a flat on that car. Although I went through two tire changes since the performance tires wore quickly.
Like all insurance, you're paying now to offset the risk of paying later for something that might happen. When it comes to the cost of a car, tires and rims aren't really all the expensive in my book. I'd rather take the $500-$700 and put it in savings so it's available if I need it.
BUT, my tire and rim history isn't really all that bad. If the roads where I lived caused me to damage one tire a year I might reconsider. Lower profile tires might also make me change my mind.
BMW/MINI certainly isn't loosing money on this, but it's all about comfort level and what risk you're willing to take.
Make sure you understand the whole package...
My dealer offers a "Tires for Life" program that costs about $2200 for cars delivered with runflats. It's not just a road hazard program, as it will replace your tires when they are worn, and covers wheels and windshield (even wiper blades and battery) as well. A couple of big problems with their plan: You have to have the tires rotated and balanced every 5,000 miles at the dealer... and they charge $65 for this each time. So, if your tires go 25k miles, you will have also paid for 4 rotations ($260). Second (and probably bigger) issue is that they will only replace with the same tires as delivered with the car. Can't get rid of the runflats.
At first I liked the concept, since we're planning on keeping the car a good long time. Then I did all the math and realized we'd be in the hole until we replaced the fulls et of tires at least twice.
My dealer offers a "Tires for Life" program that costs about $2200 for cars delivered with runflats. It's not just a road hazard program, as it will replace your tires when they are worn, and covers wheels and windshield (even wiper blades and battery) as well. A couple of big problems with their plan: You have to have the tires rotated and balanced every 5,000 miles at the dealer... and they charge $65 for this each time. So, if your tires go 25k miles, you will have also paid for 4 rotations ($260). Second (and probably bigger) issue is that they will only replace with the same tires as delivered with the car. Can't get rid of the runflats.
At first I liked the concept, since we're planning on keeping the car a good long time. Then I did all the math and realized we'd be in the hole until we replaced the fulls et of tires at least twice.
Mine came factory with goodyears , took it to the goodyear shop near my house , they got the serial# off the tires , measured tread depth and wrote me up road hazard for under $40 ... I hit a pothole blew the tire cost me $24 (tread prorating)
I was suprised the Mini dealer was pushing the same thing at me ... $40 no problem $700 no thanks
I was suprised the Mini dealer was pushing the same thing at me ... $40 no problem $700 no thanks
Mine was $545 from the dealer, and I went for it...I'll have to look up details when I get home but I know that it covers both the tires and the rims for 5 years. I plan on staying with run flats (I like the peace of mind), and buying just 2 of those over the next two years would cost me more than the insurance...so I sprung for it. I live in a sinking and growing city where potholes and construction are a-plenty, so that was an added incentive for me. I don't have a great history with tires (flats, nails, potholes) so it made sense.
Last edited by ClubDal; Jun 13, 2008 at 05:45 PM. Reason: Typed the wrong $
NEVER saw a reason for this, I can understand keeping the tread pattern the same with the same brand of tires, but a 32nd of an inch wear here or there doesn't seem like enough to pay for two tires every time you pick up a nail, which does happen often enough!
Before I placed my order I did a search on tire rack for my OEM 17's and they definately are pricey. Since I went with the best wheels Mini had, I invested in the insurance. I personally feel it was worth it, especially since it covers the rims and they are not for the "faint of wallet". Had I gotten smaller wheels and tires, I most likely would not have gone for it. We did not get it for my wife's mini because the cost was not worth it. It just depends on what set up for tires and wheels you went with.



