R52 :: Cabrio Talk (2005-2008) Cooper and Cooper S convertible (R52) discussion.

R52 Top won't close

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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #1  
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Top won't close

Hello all,

I'm having some trouble with my roof that I hope you can help with. I've searched to no avail.

I had the cable break on my top. It was the second one, the first one broke three years ago, and then the other side broke this past week. After a long process to replace it, I'm having trouble raising and lowering the top.

It appears the top is totally 'dead'. i.e. I was able to open the top all the way, but now it doesn't close. I've tried cycling the windows and such, but the top just stays closed. When pushing the close button, nothing happens. No sounds, no lights blinking, nothing.

Any thoughts? Seems like a sensor or something is out of whack, but not sure where, as I didn't touch any of that stuff.

Any advice appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 09:37 PM
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I'm sure you are aware of the boot shelf switch on the driver's side. If the li'l foot on the shelf is not all the way down nothing will happen. That is all I can think of except a fuse or the motor system is toast. Sure hope that's not it!! Good luck with this.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 06:55 AM
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Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I checked the boot switch. It opened fine, just wouldn't close. Funny thing is, when I manually closed it most of the way, it finished closing it just fine. So I think it is not sensing something right during the opening procedure, and perhaps thinks it's already closed...
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by heli_guy
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I checked the boot switch. It opened fine, just wouldn't close. Funny thing is, when I manually closed it most of the way, it finished closing it just fine. So I think it is not sensing something right during the opening procedure, and perhaps thinks it's already closed...
Sensor failure. Either that, or the cable is failing.

My car has the same exact symptoms as yours... verdict was that it needs a new cable, sunroof motor, and a sensor in the back (the one all the way back, beside the hydraulic motors).

Total part cost is about $1000, labor to be even more.
Good luck, abd let me know what you do.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 12:09 PM
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Thanks. the cables are good, just replaced one of them. The sunroof motor could be getting weak. I wonder why the rear sensor would be busted, as it was working fine before I started replacing the cable. There is a sensor up in the roof by the sunroof motor, and maybe that one is out somehow...

I'll post with whatever fix is found...
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by heli_guy
Thanks. the cables are good, just replaced one of them. The sunroof motor could be getting weak. I wonder why the rear sensor would be busted, as it was working fine before I started replacing the cable. There is a sensor up in the roof by the sunroof motor, and maybe that one is out somehow...

I'll post with whatever fix is found...
Well, my top had the same problem originally. It would open, but not close. Also, it wouldn't open all the way either. Even if I opened it all the way, the hydraulic top wouldn't engage either.

I totally thought it was the center sensor (beside the sunroof motor) -- there are three of them. Turns out that they work fine. It was just that the top was very slightly misaligned (because off stretched cables), and that's why nothing worked.


If I were to hazard a guess, it's probably your cable. I know you said you replaced it, but you're supposed to replace both of them at the same time. Maybe that's the culprit.
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #7  
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Does it flash the red light on the Open / close button when you try to close it like an error.

Also when you manually close it you are talking about using the allen key and turning the sunroof motor by hand correct? To close it on the sunroof function.

Inspect the cables and make sure the are sliding properly. Dirt and grim can get into the track and make it hard to final close. Is it sluggish on open?



# 1 , main cassette tracks.

#7 Sunroof / Convertible motor which pulls and pushes the cables.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/67616961172/ES184353/








#14 Sunroof Mechanism / Convertible Top Cable Set


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/54347174761/ES158840/




Thanks and hope that helps.
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 10:03 AM
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Hi,

I have the sun roof part working ok. It is a bit sluggish to open initially, but after that it seems ok. The new cable I installed had stiff mechanism. After opening the sunroof, it will quit during stage 2, while dropping the top completely. It seems it will sometimes open it fully, and then quit, or stop part way through the opening procedure.

When it quits, there are no blinking LEDs on the button or anything. Just sits there completely unresponsive. When I say I manually close it, it is by opening the screw on the hydraulics in the trunk, and then lifting it all the way until the latches just about touch the front windscreen. Then I can push the button and it will finish closing, latch, and then close the sunroof ok.

There could be something off with the cable for sure. I did my best to align it all properly. I am just puzzled how that can cause the roof opening/closing to quit, all while the sunroof works ok. Thanks for all the responses!
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 11:39 AM
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Oh , ok.

I thought you were talking about final close stage just after the front latches engage and then the sunroof moves forward.

A few questions. Does the frame look twisted or bent slightly. Look when you are dropping the top does one side look off. The front cassette should lower at the same rate. And the cables should be pulling the sunroof back all the way at an even rate.

So there is no top error , which when it detects a problem the little red light flashes and the top stop s moving.

Try giving it a little push the other way ( towards full top down position ) when you go to open the top, see if you hangs up or continues to close. Also can you here the hydraulic motor still run even when it stops.

There are a couple lube points where the top frame pivots you can see them when the top get to stage two and is stuck. Give them a little penetrating fluid on the pivot points.

Also if you have pics or could post a video of what is happening. That would help.

There is allot of moving parts on the convertible top and I would also look at the hydraulic lines for leaks as well as the hydraulic cylinders, while you are back there. I want to eliminate any other problems.



For some years of the convertible there was a TSB for the main harness chaffing on the convertible top frame making a bad connection or break in the harness.

Thanks and let me know.
 
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Old May 2, 2013 | 08:27 AM
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Hi,

The top appears to drop straight, and the sunroof retracts evenly. I don't hear the hydraulic motor operating at all. Everything just quits. I'll try and take a video tomorrow night. It could be something in the harness that is broken. Currently, I have a manual top :P.
 
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Old May 3, 2013 | 06:51 AM
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Ok,

No hydraulic pump noise after the front latches un-attach and move upward?

Look forward to the video.

Thanks
 
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Old May 3, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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Hi, Yesterday, it all worked fine... go figure.

When it quits, no noise is heard. If it was fully open, pressing the close button does nothing. The windows don't start to open, nothing. If I do it with the key, the windows will go down, but the top will not start to move. No noise from the motor or anything.

I will try and reproduce it shortly and get a video. Thanks for the help.
 
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Old May 3, 2013 | 10:51 AM
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Some quick pointer, just to make sure things are working right:
When you use the "key fob" to open, press and hold until the sunroof goes all the way back then press and hold again till its open all the way to the trunk. If you let go of the key fob button even a little it stops the top. * Make sure you are pointing it towards the review mirror , the receiver part for the key fob signal is in there.

Also when you press the interior open button ( I heard they can sometimes stick or fail ).


#4 in diagram.

I have pressed the open button on the interior and let my finger pressure off just a tad and the top stopped before.

If those procedures are followed and you still have the problem , I look forward to the video to help narrow it down.

Thank , hope that helps again.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 07:48 AM
  #14  
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Just a quick follow-up on this. I apologize for the lack of video, but we had to leave for our road trip to AMVIV and area, and the top has decided that it wants to work fine now. It gave me grief once before we left, but has worked perfectly since!

Wish I knew what went wrong, as I'm sure it will return unfortunately. But for now, all is well. Thanks for the responses, much appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 10:49 PM
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It's possible that it just needed to be oiled, and the constant opening and closing the top was enough to lubricate it.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2019 | 05:38 AM
  #16  
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6 years past, but maybe it will help somebody.
In your case it is 3rd hall sensor is out of place or dead. When it has HIGH signal car knows that latches are open and the top is ready for hydraulic operations. If car doesn't see HIGH signal on 3rd hall sensor it will not let hydraulic pump to operate. So the hall sensor isn't in place or doesn't work at all.
 
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