Ok. I've started to make additions to my mini and I realized that my "cheapie" Husky torque wrench may be good for large bolts (like 30-80 foot pounds), but it really not idea for smaller things like... spark plugs.

Anyone know if the "dial" type vs "clicker" type is better? I've seen both in action, but really don't know which would be more accurate.

I'm also starting to work on a honda CBR 600RR that I have so I'm in need of this torque wrench for those projects as well. The only think I can think of is that the clicker type are generally smaller and perhaps easier to get into tighter spaces.

Also, has any used CDI torque wrenches? I've learned they are owned by Snap-on so I'm assuming they are good (but much cheaper than Snap on).

Thanks!

 

Craftsman click-style is what I use and trust. If I were a pro mechanic, I'd get a better brand one such as Snap-on, Mac etc.

 

I use the Husky at work and you are correct in your assesment. I've used just about all the different styles from most makers for the last 45 years, I like a clicker type best. For my personal use I purchased a Craftsman Digitork two days ago. I was going to get the less expensive one but the Digital was on sale for $78.00.

 

Harbor Freight has a 3/8" click-style for about $25 or so - that's what I use and it works fine. I also have their 1/2" one for my lugs...

 

Here is another argument for the clicker type - if clearances are tight, how are you going to read the dial accurately? With the clicker, you simply set the torque specification. When the wrench reaches the set torque level, it releases automatically - the click. What could be simpler?

 

The only input I have regarding the ownership of the 'clicker' type is to be sure to release or set the torque to 0 when finished using it, so as not to mess with the spring/tension thing so you always get an accurate reading.

 

I have a Matco clicker type.

All torque wrenches are less accurate in the top and bottom 20% of their range. If you are going to be doing a lot of small engine work you should buy a torque wrench with a lower range so that you can stay closer to the middle of the range.

 

I have a 20+ year old clicker type from Craftsman that has seen light use through the years. I was worried about the calibration being off so a couple months ago I bought a new, longer one from Sears with the digital readout for the adjustment.

When I brought it home, I checked the torque on the lug nuts to see if the new wrench would tighten them more. It clicked without moving the nuts. As far as I can tell, the new one, at least as far as the 88 pound lug nuts are concerned, has the same calibration as the old one.

So now I have two, with the newer one being longer which makes it easier to use on the lug nuts.

I too was told to return the setting to zero when not being used. I guess it worked because the old one is the same as the new.

The dial types are harder to read when the wrench is at an angle, or even when doing something like a lug nut. I am not sure they are any more accurate than the click type as I have not checked the accuracy specs.

You can also get (if you want to spend about $1,000) a device that will go between a wrench and a socket that will give you a digital readout of the torque. I am guessing they use something like this to check the calibration of torque wrenches.

 

I've got a harbor freight 1/2" drive one that goes from 50-250. For the precision stuff I have a craftsman 3/8ths drive little dial and window one that goes from 5-80. I am in love with my craftsman.

If I had to do it all over again I'd do it the same way. Nice expensive one to handle 5-80 and then a cheaper one for 50-250. I picked up both for about $115 total.

 

I've used Craftsman since I started working on a car, 1975. Snap-On, etc., aren't necessisarily better, but sure as heck more expensive. Most professional mechanics used to go with Snap-On because they liked the physical feel of the tool. Now Craftsman offers the same shapes. If I need to get something replaced under the lifetime warranty, a Sears or OSH is easier to find then a Snap-On dealer.

I'll always go with the click type. The times I've been torqueing down a cylinder head, having to lean over the fender and such, makes trying to read a dial or digital impractical.

BTW Warped, you gonna order "Confessor?"

 

I'm partial to the Craftsman digital ones they currently are selling (only $99 or less)

 

I also have the 1/2" "clicker" style from harbor freight and I am very happy with how reliable this tool has been.

 

You can't test a torque wrench this way. It takes more initial pressure to break the nut free once you stop movement.

 

Just FYI guys, harbor freight has very cheap torque wrench!

I just came back from their local store and got following:

1/2" clicker torque wrench: $14.99
3/8" clicker torque wrench: $14.99



I know, I know they are cheapy ones, not really comparing w/ Snap-Ons, but for a guy like me they work great! Those wrench may be in action once every other full moon...
The 3/8" Craftsman clickers is on sale at Sears for $60, I thought they were good deal before I checked harbor freight.

Sounds like a great deal? Keep reading

Harbor Freight local store price matching their website pricing, and they are:
1/2" clicker torque wrench: $9.99
3/8" clicker torque wrench: $12.99
Just make sure you print the web page and show it to them! I forgot that... $8 is my lost, oh well.

 

Don't all clicker types need to be checked at intervals to insure accuracy? The old style bending beam I have can be bent back to zero as necessary. It's ancient but seems to do the job.

 

That's what I have (Craftsman 1/2").

 

They all do, even the beam type to ensure that what you are reading is actually acurate and the internal spring is not worn. When I worked on aircraft, it was extreamly necessary however, with cars, most people don't care.

 

The clicker type is easier to use, but, calibration is required for accuracy. The amount of accuracy is up to you if you want it or not. The beam type stays accuate. The dial types have longer calibration required times than the clicker. The clicker can be more accurate than the beam and dial when all are calibrated, because the clicker usually offers one lb/in at a time adjustment. The others point 'close' and that's along with their simpler design is why they require less calibration.

 

You have nicely summed up what I've always been told.

 

Has anyone ever calibrated their torque wrench? What's the process? I was thinking about making my own calibration tool where I can hang a known amount of weight from a known distance from the center. Put the wrench on a nut in a wall and see if it clicks at the proper setting (hang 25 pounds 1 foot down the handle should give me 25 ft pounds...)

The only thing I don't know is IF the results show my wrench is "off"... what's the process to calibrate it? or do you just buy a new one?

 

I was using a $15 Harbor Freight clicker torque wrench for all my servicing needs. It was great until while I was installing coilovers/camber plates, the calibration went out of spec, causing me to over-torque and snap one of the strut bolts that stripped a camber plate. Having to take the camber plate to a machine shop to Helicoil was time-consuming and put a damper on the entire project.

Since then, I purchased a SnapOn electronic torque wrench and never looked back.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Gently-used ones can be had on eBay for less than $200, and the SnapOn reps I've spoken with say that these electronic torque wrenches require calibration only if they have been broken or abused in some way. They are probably biased, but I've had no over- or under-torqued bolts since.

With SnapOn, calibration is done by sending the wrench in to their factory. When I asked how much the general fee for calibration is, I was told that since calibration is generally required only if a part in the wrench is broken, the fee will greatly vary.

 

I've read that torque wrenches are generally only accuate to 20% of their highest rating. In the case of your link it's rated from 5-100 ft pounds. Does this 20% rule apply to digital torque wrenches? Is it accurate below 20 ft pounds?

 

I use the "clicker" type on the multimillion dollar semiconductor equipment that I work on so they're definitely good for the wheel lugs or spark plugs on your car. An important thing is that they've been calibrated annually - if you use it often enough.
BUT on the other hand, even if it's off by a few foot or inch lbs, the key - on wheels especially - is that they are all equally tightened. It's worth spending the 50 or 60 bucks or so for a halfway decent wrench when it comes to your wheels. Go to Sears for a Craftsman; they're a quality product, IMO.

 

Excellent question! As it notes in the SnapOn specs, "The certification of accuracy provided per ASME and ISO Standards is 20% to 100% of full scale." So at 20ft-lb to 100ft-lb, accuracy is guaranteed to be within 2%CW and 3%CCW, but at 5 to 19 ft-lb, accuracy will be somewhat fuzzy.

The 20% of full scale rule is one of the reasons I decided to get a 3/8" wrench that only goes up to 100ft-lb - spark plugs and strut tower bolts generally require just about 25ft-lb, so a wrench that is 2% accurate at 25ft-lb will vary between 24.5 to 25.5 ft-lb. That range is sufficiently narrow for my own peace of mind.
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I'm looking for somethign that goes to 50 foot pounds for the same reason. Better accuracy at lower levels. I need one to work on my motorcycle too and some items require 9 pounds of torque (header bolts). They REALLY easy to break off on my bike.... I think I can torque 9 pounds with my bear hands!