R50/53 Trail Hitch Solutions for MINI Question
Trail Hitch Solutions for MINI Question
I have been looking for a motorcycle trailer towing solution for my Mini and I have found a few options. One is the “Tow-Link” from http://www.minifini.com, two is from http://www.minidomore.com, and three is from U-Haul http://www.uhaul.com my questions are… has anyone seen the U-Haul version on a Mini? Are there any other trailer hitch options out there? Please post photos or comments.
Thanks, guys
Thanks, guys
that's a good question. I haven't even thought about renting a trailer.
There's a thread about tailering motorcycles in the General MINI Talk section. Here's the link. It has motorcyle trailer in the thread title. (Just in case this link doesn't work) I found it and this one doing a search on the word trailer.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hlight=trailer
There's a thread about tailering motorcycles in the General MINI Talk section. Here's the link. It has motorcyle trailer in the thread title. (Just in case this link doesn't work) I found it and this one doing a search on the word trailer.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hlight=trailer
Last edited by Free Spirit; Feb 8, 2007 at 10:15 AM. Reason: add more info
The "justa" Mini has several trailer hitch options, including (I believe) hiddenhitch, dalan, and uhaul. It can also use the MiniFine towlink and the minidomore.
The Cooper S really has only two, the fini and the minidomore. Both are fairly expensive for what they are, but I do understand the limited market and need for the business operators to make some money too. I have the Minidomore, installation was straightforward (easier than the Fini unit). Only quirk is the need for a slightly longer drawbar. It's the less expensive of the two as well.
Several threads on trailer light wiring, if I were to do it again it'd take mayb e 45 minutes to wire a 12v isolation trailer lighting plug/circuit to the pin level of the taillights. Not too bad.
The Cooper S really has only two, the fini and the minidomore. Both are fairly expensive for what they are, but I do understand the limited market and need for the business operators to make some money too. I have the Minidomore, installation was straightforward (easier than the Fini unit). Only quirk is the need for a slightly longer drawbar. It's the less expensive of the two as well.
Several threads on trailer light wiring, if I were to do it again it'd take mayb e 45 minutes to wire a 12v isolation trailer lighting plug/circuit to the pin level of the taillights. Not too bad.
Don't forget the solution from Miniature Trailers.
Again, the package with hidden hitch, drawbar and wiring is not cheap, but this product is of outstanding quality and strength. I was able to closely examine this product last June.
And...it is invisible with the drawbar removed!
Theo
Again, the package with hidden hitch, drawbar and wiring is not cheap, but this product is of outstanding quality and strength. I was able to closely examine this product last June.
And...it is invisible with the drawbar removed!
Theo
Yep. I have the Miniature Trailers / MiniDoMore rig - and it is excellent. Only downside IMHO is that it requires you to get crawl under the rear bumper to fit & remove the drawbar or other accessories - the MiniFini hitch is easier to change attachments on. But the attachments are MUCH more expensive than the standard one you can use on the MiniDoMore rig.
Hint: Buy a NAM calendar ASAP if you're going to buy a MiniDoMore hitch and accessories...
Hint: Buy a NAM calendar ASAP if you're going to buy a MiniDoMore hitch and accessories...
Theo: Brent at Miniature Trailers changed the company name to MiniDoMore - but the website is still Miniature Trailers.... 
edit: Aagh, Blazer you beat me to it. And I bet there's now a coupon or something in the calendar. Rats... Foiled again! Well, at least the MiniDoMore/Miniature Trailers hitch went on well, if I were to do it again it'd take maybe an hour, 90 minutes tops.
Oh - here's what the miniDoMore hitch looks like when it's on and not towing...

edit: Aagh, Blazer you beat me to it. And I bet there's now a coupon or something in the calendar. Rats... Foiled again! Well, at least the MiniDoMore/Miniature Trailers hitch went on well, if I were to do it again it'd take maybe an hour, 90 minutes tops.
Oh - here's what the miniDoMore hitch looks like when it's on and not towing...

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Thanks guys for the replys. I checked out Dalan and HiddenHitch. The Dalan is only for the Cooper not Cooper S and nothing from HiddenHitch. I am assuming the UHaul version is the same as Dalan. During the model search it only came up with Cooper, no Cooper S. I guess I should have stated earlier that I was driving a Cooper S.
Looks like the MiniDoMore is the winner, but it looks like a difficult install, but there is a 15% off coupon on the Motoring calendar. The MiniFini wants you to drill holes, I don't like that idea.
Looks like the MiniDoMore is the winner, but it looks like a difficult install, but there is a 15% off coupon on the Motoring calendar. The MiniFini wants you to drill holes, I don't like that idea.
MiniDoMore is a really easy installation - seriously - if you want to come to Pgh I'll help, we'll schedule 2 hours and spend the last 30 minutes detailing the cars and eating pizza. If we schedule 3 hours we can also install the wiring harness and finish off that 2 liter bottle of cola.
I'm doing an impromptu "garage day" sometime in the next few weeks with some guys from our local Mini club to show how the hitch and wiring is installed... I'll try to take a few pictures along the way, though the MDM instructions are pretty good (their pictures are small though).
Don't forget to order the drawbar from MiniDoMore, a standard length drawbar isn't *quite* long enough. You'll need like 6.5-7" from the pin hole to the bumper, so also plan ahead if you're fitting bike racks, they'll also need a longer "drawbar". It's a nice unit though.
I'm doing an impromptu "garage day" sometime in the next few weeks with some guys from our local Mini club to show how the hitch and wiring is installed... I'll try to take a few pictures along the way, though the MDM instructions are pretty good (their pictures are small though).
Don't forget to order the drawbar from MiniDoMore, a standard length drawbar isn't *quite* long enough. You'll need like 6.5-7" from the pin hole to the bumper, so also plan ahead if you're fitting bike racks, they'll also need a longer "drawbar". It's a nice unit though.
My only prob with minidomore is the weight capacity, it only tows 1000 lbs.
Moss MINI also has a trailer hitch. Here's the link.
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=57040
The thing with this, which is a big thing, this will NOT fit a Cooper S. The towing capacity is 2000 lbs. And it says there is some "under car trimming required", whatever that means. If you don't have a S, it's worth checking into, it only costs $149, under half the cost of the others.
Moss MINI also has a trailer hitch. Here's the link.
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=57040
The thing with this, which is a big thing, this will NOT fit a Cooper S. The towing capacity is 2000 lbs. And it says there is some "under car trimming required", whatever that means. If you don't have a S, it's worth checking into, it only costs $149, under half the cost of the others.
Theo
I'm doing an impromptu "garage day" sometime in the next few weeks with some guys from our local Mini club to show how the hitch and wiring is installed... I'll try to take a few pictures along the way, though the MDM instructions are pretty good (their pictures are small though).
Don't forget to order the drawbar from MiniDoMore, a standard length drawbar isn't *quite* long enough. You'll need like 7-8" from the pin hole to the bumper, so also plan ahead if you're fitting bike racks, they'll also need a longer "drawbar". It's a nice unit though.
Don't forget to order the drawbar from MiniDoMore, a standard length drawbar isn't *quite* long enough. You'll need like 7-8" from the pin hole to the bumper, so also plan ahead if you're fitting bike racks, they'll also need a longer "drawbar". It's a nice unit though.
Quick question: I won't be needing the wiring harness for my MOTD trip (using a cargo carrier), but do you recommend doing the wiring install at the same time as the hitch anyway?
In other words, I'm not sure that I will need it in the near future, but if the installation requires the same parts removed from the car, is that a good investment to make right away (in your opinion)???
Thanks,
Ed
OK, you caught me with a little time here...
Doing it separately is no problem, you're not removing much in either case, really, and nothing in common. It LOOKS complicated because the rear bumper cover is so large. It may be easier to do it all at once because, well, you already booked the quality time with your Mini...
For the hitch, you're just
- Jacking up the back of the car
- Removing the rear wheels
- Detaaching the rear bumper cover (7 easy fasteners and 2 hidden)
- Disconnecting the marker lights (twist and pop)
- Setting the bumper cover aside
- Removing the support beam - 4 bolts each side
- Replacing the beam with the stronger hitch (not to worry!)
- Cleaning under the bumper (because Mini owners tend to be **** about such things), and finding a place for the support beam you no longer need
- Reassembling
You can probably do it without jacking if you have a stubby screwdriver, but jacking up is easy and you get to check your rear brakes, suspension, etc. while you're at it.
For the taillight wiring (about $40, a Hoppy isolation converter)
- Opening the hatch and cleaning out the boot area (the hardest part)
- Propping up the carpet to access the battery
- Removing the side panels - the doors on left and right
- Removing the rear trim panel (4 easy-to-remove poppers)
- Threading 3 wires to the Driver's side taillight and connecting
- Threading one wire to the PS taillight and connecting
- Wrapping the wires to make 'em look OEM and protect 'em from abrasion
- Connecting 12v+ and 12v- at the battery
- Ziptying foam around the converter so it doesn't rattle down there in the battery box
- Reassembling, inserting the inline converter fuse, and testing
I chose to leave the trailer plug INSIDE the car, tucked neatly in with the battery, and extend under the hatch whenin use. An easily-replacable pigtail connects the converter to the trailer plug, so if it gets pinched it's a $6 WalMart or truckstop purchase.
On the rear trunk extender (if that's the kind of cargo carrier you're using):
1) You MAY want to wire the taillights for the trailer before using the extender, AND consider spending the $25 and putting trailer taillights (available at WalMart) on the extender itself. Sometimes the load can cover the taillights on your vehicle (though the Mini lights are pretty high and wide). This also discourages tailgaters.
2) Make sure the extender (or any accessory you're using with the hitch) measures at least 6 3/8" to 6 1/2" from the pin hole to the outer bumper skin. I just measured my Mini, my rpevious 7-8" was in error, it's 6 3/8" from pin to bumper skin on my car. Some "tongues" are shorter than that.
If you're using a roof box, well, putting trailer lights on that is just overkill. Putting jymongous driving lights on the FRONT of it, well, that's cool.
MiniDoMore instructions here:
http://www.miniaturetrailer.com/instructions.pdf
Hope that helps!
Doing it separately is no problem, you're not removing much in either case, really, and nothing in common. It LOOKS complicated because the rear bumper cover is so large. It may be easier to do it all at once because, well, you already booked the quality time with your Mini...
For the hitch, you're just
- Jacking up the back of the car
- Removing the rear wheels
- Detaaching the rear bumper cover (7 easy fasteners and 2 hidden)
- Disconnecting the marker lights (twist and pop)
- Setting the bumper cover aside
- Removing the support beam - 4 bolts each side
- Replacing the beam with the stronger hitch (not to worry!)
- Cleaning under the bumper (because Mini owners tend to be **** about such things), and finding a place for the support beam you no longer need
- Reassembling
You can probably do it without jacking if you have a stubby screwdriver, but jacking up is easy and you get to check your rear brakes, suspension, etc. while you're at it.
For the taillight wiring (about $40, a Hoppy isolation converter)
- Opening the hatch and cleaning out the boot area (the hardest part)
- Propping up the carpet to access the battery
- Removing the side panels - the doors on left and right
- Removing the rear trim panel (4 easy-to-remove poppers)
- Threading 3 wires to the Driver's side taillight and connecting
- Threading one wire to the PS taillight and connecting
- Wrapping the wires to make 'em look OEM and protect 'em from abrasion
- Connecting 12v+ and 12v- at the battery
- Ziptying foam around the converter so it doesn't rattle down there in the battery box
- Reassembling, inserting the inline converter fuse, and testing
I chose to leave the trailer plug INSIDE the car, tucked neatly in with the battery, and extend under the hatch whenin use. An easily-replacable pigtail connects the converter to the trailer plug, so if it gets pinched it's a $6 WalMart or truckstop purchase.
On the rear trunk extender (if that's the kind of cargo carrier you're using):
1) You MAY want to wire the taillights for the trailer before using the extender, AND consider spending the $25 and putting trailer taillights (available at WalMart) on the extender itself. Sometimes the load can cover the taillights on your vehicle (though the Mini lights are pretty high and wide). This also discourages tailgaters.
2) Make sure the extender (or any accessory you're using with the hitch) measures at least 6 3/8" to 6 1/2" from the pin hole to the outer bumper skin. I just measured my Mini, my rpevious 7-8" was in error, it's 6 3/8" from pin to bumper skin on my car. Some "tongues" are shorter than that.
If you're using a roof box, well, putting trailer lights on that is just overkill. Putting jymongous driving lights on the FRONT of it, well, that's cool.
MiniDoMore instructions here:
http://www.miniaturetrailer.com/instructions.pdf
Hope that helps!
Moss Motors Hitch
My only prob with minidomore is the weight capacity, it only tows 1000 lbs.
Moss MINI also has a trailer hitch. Here's the link.
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=57040
The thing with this, which is a big thing, this will NOT fit a Cooper S. The towing capacity is 2000 lbs. And it says there is some "under car trimming required", whatever that means. If you don't have a S, it's worth checking into, it only costs $149, under half the cost of the others.
Moss MINI also has a trailer hitch. Here's the link.
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=57040
The thing with this, which is a big thing, this will NOT fit a Cooper S. The towing capacity is 2000 lbs. And it says there is some "under car trimming required", whatever that means. If you don't have a S, it's worth checking into, it only costs $149, under half the cost of the others.
Philip
{snip}...
- Removing the support beam - 4 bolts each side
- Replacing the beam with the stronger hitch (not to worry!)
- Cleaning under the bumper (because Mini owners tend to be **** about such things), and finding a place for the support beam you no longer need
...{snip}
- Removing the support beam - 4 bolts each side
- Replacing the beam with the stronger hitch (not to worry!)
- Cleaning under the bumper (because Mini owners tend to be **** about such things), and finding a place for the support beam you no longer need
...{snip}



For those who are fitting this hitch, please DO NOT follow this portion of the poster's write up...rely on the instructions included with the product!
Theo
Per the instructions, you DISCARD the black steel reinforcement plate that is replaced by the hitch assembly. (I think this is what DixonL2 is referring to).
Of course, you re-install the aluminum bumper structure.
No worries.
Of course, you re-install the aluminum bumper structure.
No worries.
Theo
Neither can tow much, I think we're rated foir 1000-1200lb...
BTW, I timed it last night: My wife and I installed the MDM hitch in 50 minutes (I replaced the "with foglight" hitch (1002) with the "without foglight" (or 2005-6, model 1003) hitch).
That included jacking up the Mini, and taking out/putting away all the tools - took another 2-3 minutes to wash hands, I guess... making it 53 minutes, and we're a husband and wife team so we took a little time for the perfunctory bit of "no, I said PHILIPS screwdriver" statements.
BTW, I timed it last night: My wife and I installed the MDM hitch in 50 minutes (I replaced the "with foglight" hitch (1002) with the "without foglight" (or 2005-6, model 1003) hitch).
That included jacking up the Mini, and taking out/putting away all the tools - took another 2-3 minutes to wash hands, I guess... making it 53 minutes, and we're a husband and wife team so we took a little time for the perfunctory bit of "no, I said PHILIPS screwdriver" statements.
Towing capacity of a MINI (S)
MINI TRAILER TOWING CAPACITY:
You should make your own decision about towing things with an MC(S), and
how that might affect your warranty.
I have a 2004 MINI Cooper S. On page 76 of the owner’s manual under
"Determining cargo limit" it says.
"6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, load from your trailer will be
transferred to your vehicle. Consult the manual for transporting a trailer
to determine how this may reduce the available cargo and luggage load
capacity of your vehicle." (The 2005 owners manual says the same thing.)
I do not know what trailer transport manual they are referring to,
but this statement certainly is not "no trailer towing or you lose your warranty”.
This statement about trailers does not seem to appear in the earlier, or later
owners manuals, just the 2004, and 2005. Some recent model owners have said
there is actually a statement AGAINST trailer towing in their manuals.
I n 2004 I found specifications on WWW that APPEARED to be MINI specs.
On two European MINI web sites I found that the MINI (not S)
is rated for towing a fair size load.
On the MINI One, MINI One D, and MINI Cooper; an unbraked trailer should
not exceed 550 KG (1,210 pounds). For a trailer with brakes the
capacity is 650 KG (1,430 pounds). The UK and Ireland sites had a
Tow Hitch listed as a MINI part. It said on one site, 650 KG, and on the
other site it said vertical load (tongue weight) is 75 KG.
For the MCS it said "trailer not possible". (Sure not with the MINI hitch!) I have been told that folks in the U. K. do not drive faster than 50 mph when
pulling a trailer. In the USA it is not uncommon to see a car and trailer on
the road at speeds of 75 mph. This may be the reason MINI chooses not
to make trailer towing equipment available in this country.
John
Last edited by Jdewey; Mar 23, 2010 at 11:21 AM. Reason: web page reference obsolete and removed



