This is a heartwarming thread. Way to go high mileage Coopers!

My baby R53 has only 77K in 4 years.

 

Just turned 138k...replaced the following since 07:
clutch, lower control arm bushings, fuel level sensors.

Still runs strong, I use it as my main mode of transportation and drive 102 miles a day round trip. What a fun car to drive.

 

Just hit 148k- that's 11k since March! Time to swap some roaring wheel bearings

 

Mine has 110,000 Not a great story here. First, at about 90,000 it started throwing Codes and eventually the car was not running as good as it should. Did a Compression test to find that 2 cylinders had lower compression. More reading I found that the Chrysler Neon Engine has VERY SHort valve Guides that allow the valves to wear them earlier than normal which is also one of the reasons they went to the Puegot engine. I found a good used head (10K miles) and replaced the head bolts with ARP Studs and a Cometic Head gasket. I had to buy the cam aligning tool and on e-bay I paid $35 for special made tools that Mini wants $150 for to pull out the Modular Front end.

Next, the car developed the "Christine Syndrone" where the windows and sun roof would open and close all by themselves. I found that the Keyless entry in the drivers door caused that and replaced it and no more problem

Next I found that the Control arm bushings go bad at 75 K or more miles. When you really look at how they are made it is surprising that they last as long as they do! For me, the best way to replace them is to get the Purple Power Flex Bushings from Auto X Cooper for about $95. The best part is for $15 you get the INstalled Bushing in a core and all you do is send the destroyed Core back when finished! The deal here is you MUST remove the Sub Frame to do this and the Torque to tighten them is "122 Pound feet of torque"! The only thing I have ever tightened this tight was the old VW Alxe nut that used 3/4" drive Socket.

Next, The Steering Rack started to leak and the rubber at the top of the struts cracked so I am replacing the Rack for about $200 and the Strut camber plates with a 1 degree negative plate from Auto X Cooper and the Drive shafts new from the "Find" for abpout $100 each.

Not the Mini's Fault, When I had the car at "Passport Mini in Alexanderia (I mention them by name to let you know that I do not hate anyone enough to send them there) They lied to me about waiting on a Part that was never needed or ordered and they cut the Drive shaft boot when checking the car, Left the Under pan down and did not reinstall the fastners, Broke the Dip Stick and messed up the roof hatch seal and nasty fingerprints inside the car that they said would not come out but did come out easily! the car was there for several weeks while they did nothing!

So over the last 2 weekends (Sunday only) I have removed the drive shafts, (to be replaced through no fualt of their own) the Steering Rack, the COntrol arm Bushings and the Top Strut mount and the Fan.

SOmething good about the Mini! The Sub Frame does NOT support the engine and is reasonable to remove so that you can replace the Control arm Bushings, Steering Rack and work with the Struts and drive shafts.

Yes, it is a neat car but be aware that it is not designed for everything to last more than 100K miles Specially when you "Enjoy" the car. With the new After Market Strut plate and Control arm bushings and the newer head I expect to get to 200K Before I replace the head again but this time with a Re-worked head with longer and better Silicon Bronz Guides.

I also went through 3 exhaust, The Stock went at 53,000 miles when the Header split right at the catalytic Converter near the Flex coupler. The Worse exhaust was Magnaflow! The best is through one of the site supporter the Stratmosphere! It is a little expensive but the welding alone is the Quality of what you see on Motorcycles. It is almost too beautiful to be under a car!

I also bought a set of adjustable lower rear arms TSW WHo is bought our by someone on thise seb site so "Remove" a little of the rear negative camber.



Next, as a lot of you have experienced, the Low Speed fan circuit goes out. I used "The FInd" to get the correct fan for about $85.00 it also helps to have the Pins to slide out the front end to replace this also.

Next,

 

my 2003 r50 has got 117,000 miles and still runnin strong! love it, but waiting for either the clutch or tranny to go out any day now lol....

 

My R50 went out at 115k and it cost me 1400 to replace. The main cause of it was the throwout bearing somehow failed and it looked mangled to bits. The clutch disc looked like it had plenty of life left in it. Don't forget to get your slave cylinder replaced while they take the transmission out. That part only cost me 50 dollars. Hopefully you find a good mechanic and wont forget to put your coolant hose back to where the thermostat is located. The shop that did mine screwed it up and I ended up doing it myself because I didn't want to wait and that I would of done a better job at it.

 

I have a '03 with 95k that did the same thing. I put the heli-coil in. Only other large issue was a new clutch at 80k. Other small problems right now are an oil pressure light, driver side door latch, passanger door lock, and a mystery water leak in the boot somewhere. It's like a lady, you don't dislike her for her flaws, you embrace them. If anybody has any advice on these issues please feel free to let me know lol

 

I would take a Serious Look at the compression of the other cylinders AND Put in a spark plug Sert. If you have the early (Read non French Engine) then most likely you already have Valve Guide problems.

I did my first Oil change at 3,000 then at 6,000 then the dealer at 10,000. Then I did my next at 15 and 20 before the dealer did at 25,000. I used nothing but Vavoline 5 w 30 Full Synthetic Oil.

This weekend I JUST finished the car. I replaced the

Strut Tops with the 1 degree Neg Camber plates
Control arm Bushings
Inner Ball joints (I took the Grease Needle and lubed all of the Ball Joints with Molly Grease)
Left & Right Drive Shafts
Steering Rack
Rear Adjustable Lower control Links
Braided cable Brake lines all of the way around
New Radiator Fan Assembly
New Catalytic Converter (300 Hole metallic)

(Replaced the Brake Pads a week before I did all of this)

Took me 3 Sundays and a few days during some of the weeks when it was not raining Now I can get back to working on the Porsche 911 and my Motorcycles.

 

02 cooper with 97k its getting there

 

Update: '02 R50 just hit 171,800 yesterday. Got an upper and lower engine mount ready to go. Oil change is due as well.

Within a few months: new rotors + pads.

 

Has any Dealer gone over your car lately? If they did, then what did they tell you that it needed?

I thought my car was in good condition until I took it in for the Sun Roof and They found everything I mention in my post.

In Other words, It is one thing to make it to 175K Miles and quite another the have these miles with the car in Good Mechanical Condition. SO understanding this, WHat have you replaced and what is needed to be replaced?

 

I have a 2004 MINI ONE with 142K+ KM on the meter. Have changed (mostly due to wear and tear):

- Lower arm bush x 2 times
- Motor mounting x 1 time (current one, going to die soon as it leaking oil)
- Radiator fan x 1 time
- Power steering hose x 1 time
- Power steering return pipe x 1 time
- Power window motor x 1 time (each side)
- Head light bulb (forgot how many times)

.... etc sorry can't remember all haha

 

You may want to look at Auto X Cooper and get the Non Stock (Power flex) control arm bushings! The stock ones are designed to Flex and eventually they get hard and break their Rubber bands and then you are out

 

Working on the Mini and doing all of the things I posted above. ALso note the Purple Power flex Control arm Busings and the Old one with nothing in the center!

 

I've got a Cooper with 240,000k on it. only put a couple trans in it. But still the original engine and running well. Heck I loaned it to a customer today that had an S with 170k on it.
Both cars we put the powerflex bushings in they haven't worn out one bit.

 

AMEN!! They work totally different by rotating and some flexing in the couplers vs Stock! I think you are the person I used to get the Current Exhaust I now have (Stratnmosphere). It was not the cheapest but it is sure the Best! (Beautiful welds and no Droaning =, just a little louder than stock)

 

Just turned 148k on my way into work today...woohoo

Most recent repairs - front wheel hub assemblies....she rides nice and smooth now.

 

125k on mine

Tyranny just went out after it had been making some noise. Doing the 6 speed swap. Only other issue was the driver door lock went, but that was covered under warranty.

 

Must be a straight line to 100,000

 

You got lucky on the "Christine Syndrone" drivers side door lock. Most never knew what caused the problem and all were after the Warranty expired

 

My clutch went out at 103,000. I got lucky and found a local mechanic and gave him the manual and he replaced it for $515.00, not including the parts I gace him (new clutch, throwout bearing, etc.). Like the poster above, my clutch didn't look too bad, but the throwout bearing was completely destroyed.

 

to the posters above^ if your throw out bearing is indeed going out does it make a certain noise? kinda like a metal on metal. i just got my clutch replaced and recently started hearing something weird coming from the engine it seems to come and go and only at low rpm's in 2nd and 3rd

 

my '04 cooper has 102,000k miles!

The only problem I have had with it is power steering pump that I had replaced this past August.

Currently about to replace control arm bushings and dealership told me I need new struts as well.

Besides that everything has been great. However, I am worried that maybe my transmission or something $$$ will go out and have recently been wondering if I should trade it in for a MINI with less miles even thought I looooove my Lola.

Has anyone else thought about this as well?

 

my mini is about to turn over 193,000 miles!! such a great car. i will have a mini for life

 

Tomorrow my Cooper will hit 148,000 miles.

Major parts replaced since 50,000 miles:
engine mounts
rear wheel bearings
drivers side door brake
alternator
radiator

Exhaust will soon need to be replaced - the muffler is rusting pretty good, and the catalytic converter now needs to be replaced.

Overall it has been very reliable and I'm very happy.