R50/53 Things You Didn't Know About Your MINI
Does your's have the jumpstart terminals under the bonnet? Could you give it a jump to be able to unlock the boot?
Thank-you for your reply. I did figure out how to get to the battery after I had made my post. Boy did I feel stupid. I diconnected the fan as you suggested and will attemped the change next week. I found the new fan assembly for $250. after tax. My dealer wanted $875 for parts and labor.
My mini has 66 k on it and this is the first big problem. My dealer also wants another $875 for the 65K service of the car. If you have any suggestions on where to get info on what all should be done for this service I could use the advice. The dealer said oil and filter change , belt replacement ect ... but not plugs, I guess they last until around 100K.
Again Thanks for all your help
My mini has 66 k on it and this is the first big problem. My dealer also wants another $875 for the 65K service of the car. If you have any suggestions on where to get info on what all should be done for this service I could use the advice. The dealer said oil and filter change , belt replacement ect ... but not plugs, I guess they last until around 100K.
Again Thanks for all your help
In the thread at https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-problems.html I posted a link to a photo set I took when I replaced mine the first time. If you search some of the threads for cooling fan issues you will find some more information.
I don't know of a step by step instruction write up anywhere, but the jist of it is to disconnect the battery, leave the boot OPEN, remove the bumper cover, unhook all the lights in the cover, bumper, loosen the plastic shroud that supports the radiator and A/C coil, unhook the top radiator hose, let the radiator slip forward a little, setting the coil on a small chair or box (or suspend it from above if you're in a garage with trusses or the like) until you can reach behind, unclip the fan assembly and slide it up and out. There are numerous bolts, clips, and such to undo including breaking the wheel wells from the front plastic housing. Two useful tricks are removing the upper hose quickly and bungy it up to the bonnet so you lose little coolant. Second is the undo the bracket at the plug connection I spoke of so the A/C coil lines are loose allowing the coil to rotate out and to the driver's side of the vehicle.
The worse of it is trying to hold onto everything that's loose but not removed without accidently raking a hole through the coil or radiator. Take you time, it isn't too bad. Also, there are two silver bolts behind the bumper cover with large, deep, washers. Leave these in place as they are the alignment dogs for the assembled front components. Everything will go back into place properly when you set them back over those two points.
On the subject of the second inspection, the Owner's Manual lists all the work to be completed under the Inspection II.
I don't know of a step by step instruction write up anywhere, but the jist of it is to disconnect the battery, leave the boot OPEN, remove the bumper cover, unhook all the lights in the cover, bumper, loosen the plastic shroud that supports the radiator and A/C coil, unhook the top radiator hose, let the radiator slip forward a little, setting the coil on a small chair or box (or suspend it from above if you're in a garage with trusses or the like) until you can reach behind, unclip the fan assembly and slide it up and out. There are numerous bolts, clips, and such to undo including breaking the wheel wells from the front plastic housing. Two useful tricks are removing the upper hose quickly and bungy it up to the bonnet so you lose little coolant. Second is the undo the bracket at the plug connection I spoke of so the A/C coil lines are loose allowing the coil to rotate out and to the driver's side of the vehicle.
The worse of it is trying to hold onto everything that's loose but not removed without accidently raking a hole through the coil or radiator. Take you time, it isn't too bad. Also, there are two silver bolts behind the bumper cover with large, deep, washers. Leave these in place as they are the alignment dogs for the assembled front components. Everything will go back into place properly when you set them back over those two points.
On the subject of the second inspection, the Owner's Manual lists all the work to be completed under the Inspection II.
Anybody else noticed this? When using the cruise control, when you accelerate using the + button (for the cruise) if you let off the button at the desired speed, the car will actually go 1-2 mph over that speed, and then come back down to the desired speed. It's pretty cool, especially if you are using the cruise control to pass someone.
When I'm going up a hill (not even a steep one) my cruise won't hold speed. It dips down to as much as 5 mph below where it's set.
When I'm going down a hill (again, not necessarily steep) it will accelerate as much as 5 mph.
Maybe conserving gas mileage by decelerating?
Maybe it sees opportunities to speed up without using more gas?
Is my car, in fact, smarter than i am?
But I'd say all of their food usually gives that sensation.
It certainly isn't Taco Bell's seat warmers.
storage shelf under car?
Is this a joke or is there really a storage shelf under the car to hide your keys? where is it?
Feel around under the sill by the rear wheel arch. Note: NOT for drivin' around 'hide-a-key' use...
I know I will not be using this 'convenient' feature.
The first place I saw it was "The Unofficial MINI Cooper Owners Manual"...
More of a question i guess
What is this? no air comes out of it, but it has vents, all pics I have seen of them removed there is nothing under them. I have searched long and hard before posting perhaps someone else knows! 

You can look inside it, if you want. Stick a flathead screwdriver under the edge and gently pry the cover off. Work one side, then the other; once the clips are mostly free you can pull it down with your fingers.
This might qualify as one of those "didn't know about the Mini" or it might be issues I am having.
2006 MCS auto. I lock the car, but the P (for park) on the transmission selector (PRND) stays illuminated for a few minutes afterwards.
The engine temperature gauge never seems to start from the lowest setting. Is it because it is summer? It's always a bit above the cold mark and yes, this is with a car that sat undriven overnight or more. Never had a car do this before. Normal driving temp is right smack on the middle mark.
2006 MCS auto. I lock the car, but the P (for park) on the transmission selector (PRND) stays illuminated for a few minutes afterwards.
The engine temperature gauge never seems to start from the lowest setting. Is it because it is summer? It's always a bit above the cold mark and yes, this is with a car that sat undriven overnight or more. Never had a car do this before. Normal driving temp is right smack on the middle mark.
This might qualify as one of those "didn't know about the Mini" or it might be issues I am having.
2006 MCS auto. I lock the car, but the P (for park) on the transmission selector (PRND) stays illuminated for a few minutes afterwards.
The engine temperature gauge never seems to start from the lowest setting. Is it because it is summer? It's always a bit above the cold mark and yes, this is with a car that sat undriven overnight or more. Never had a car do this before. Normal driving temp is right smack on the middle mark.
2006 MCS auto. I lock the car, but the P (for park) on the transmission selector (PRND) stays illuminated for a few minutes afterwards.
The engine temperature gauge never seems to start from the lowest setting. Is it because it is summer? It's always a bit above the cold mark and yes, this is with a car that sat undriven overnight or more. Never had a car do this before. Normal driving temp is right smack on the middle mark.
Certainly not the "sauce".. Could be the age of the meat.


