close to the 1250 mile break-in...now looking forward to starting to beat on the engine to max revs... I don't wanna just start pinging off of the rev-limiter like some crazy lunatic... :impatient

any suggestions/advise on how to work my way up to the rev limiter?

Was thinking no more that 4500rpm in any gear this week (and actually hitting the 4500 mark, which i didn't do during break-in very often) and up it by 500 rpm a week until at rev limit....

also, i do know about the whole "don't drive crazy until the engine is complete warmed up"...

 

Hello!!
I installed the Alta 15% pulley on my 2005 MCS when my car had 900 miles only, and I finished the break-in with few redlined moments just do it gradually, and for the warm up I just wait 2 to 3 minutes before take off. Henry

 

Change the OIL, it is the single best thing you can do for the motor now. I like Mobil 1.

 

I would agree. Change the oil

 

I agree, change the oil now.

 

As in a regular synthetic oil change from like shell/jiffy lube/do it yourself... etc right?

not taking it into the dealer for their special (yah, right) "bmw" oil....

 

Look into Redline or Royal Purple oil. Relatively speaking it's the best price / performance / protection for you engine. Having said that, Redline can cost $8.70 a quart and Royal Purple $6.50 a quart when you have a case shipped to you...but how much was your car? So we are talking one tenth of a percent (Mini cost/oil cost) or less per oil change.

 

BMW uses a Castrol synthetic. You can find that many places I'm sure for around $4 a quart, or Mobil 1 for about the same. You won't need anything better than that, especially at the slow speeds you'll be driving at (I use to live on Oahu). Also, it isn't necessary to change your oil at all until the 10K point. But what do BMW engineers know about engines? Don't be a sheep...don't change your oil! MINI will do it for free at 10K so just concentrate on not hitting a parked car or any wahines while you cruise through Ala Moana Park!

Cheers!

 

I like Mobil 1 because it is available everywhere, if you need to buy some. All the other specialty brands, not Castrol, you have to order or track down. I understand MINI uses Castrol, anyhow.

P.S. Most dealers will put in any oil you supply when getting a change. Unless you do it, it might be the best method to eliminate any warranty dispute by having a non-dealer doing any work on it. Labor alone is probably about 45 or 50 bucks at most dealers, even MINI.

 

VW said the same thing and I still changed at 2500K. 10K is an awful lot of miles in the life of a motor to have the wear and tear of the break-in metal running around in there. Probably corporate marketing made the 10K call since they were giving away the maintenance for 3 years and figured synthetics would save money by raising the service cycle. Might not have had anything to do with the famous german BMW engineers.

I know all my motors are "happier" with fresh synthetic oil.

 

Well, the manual is not very specific - just states "After having driven 1250 miles engine and road speeds can be gradually increased."

I can't recall exactly what we did but it was neither too cautious or vigorous with all out harsh driving. I guess with this an other cars we've just driven them like we drive :smile:

As for the oil change at that point or thereabouts (I think we got to 2k) I agree, however I stick with Castrol as BMW/MINI uses while a car is under warranty as a rule. I'd hate for something to happen and have any issues around that.

 

Hafta agree here. I had a 328is for 7 years, changing the oil at only the recommended intevals, not every 3,000 miles or "between" services. And that was with dino oil. ALWAYS ran perfectly.

The MINI motor is an extremely modern powerplant, and manufacturing is light years ahead of where it was just 10 years ago, let alone 30 or 40 years ago, which is the era of the 3000 mile oil-change edict.

Save yourself some money and save the environment. Get a 15% pulley and an ALTA CAI. And drive your car as hard as you can. It's going to be able to take what you can probably dish out. Seriously, hammer it!

Of course, there will be those who disagree about the oil thing, but I really belive that it's kinda like rinsing your plates before you put them in the dishwasher (if it's a newer one)--it's a waste of water and time. That's why they call it a dishWASHER; it washes your dishes so you don't have to.

Okay, now that I'm donning my asbestos suit, let 'em rip! :smile:

 

"Get a 15% pulley and an ALTA CAI"

I wanna get that... but can't due to wanting to be in G stock....

 

Hey I'm not going to flame you but I do not agree entirely as BMW/MINI has never done things with keeping cars in fine fettle long past the warranty in mind. I believe that the extended durations they give between oil changes is partly driven by them trying to save money under the maint. program - think how much more it would cost them if they changed the oil free every 5000 miles (which is the range I give for synthetic but for the first post break in change). Think about it, BMW also says the transmission fluid is lifetime yet have you ever seen that stuff if/when it is changed? Nasty! Can they also be hoping that you'll take the car to a dealer when there are problems as a result?

Yes engines and engine manufacture has advanced, as has oil, but pollutants among other factors still goo up things in the systems and over time can and has lead to problems for some people. Better safe then sorry in my book, esp with engines being pushed to perform at their utmost.

 

Oh, and its important to remember that miles is not the only factor to keep in mind regarding oil changes - time is important too. If you have low mileage because the car isn't driven far/often you should still change the oil at least once a year.

PS: With regards to the enviroment, we always take the oil to be reclaimed/recycled :smile:

 

I used to say the same and ran lots of DINO oil. After reading what's out there on synthetic oils, I finally switched about 3 years ago. Higher heat tolerances, resistance to break down, etc. I think that you are defeating the advantages of the synthetic if you run it for the extended periods. You can SEE the differences in the oil when you drain it at 2 to 3K as opposed to 10K, like every good gear head should. YOU can change the oil, it's not that hard.

Manufacturers can only desigante a particular BRAND of oil if they are willing to supply that Brand to every owner for the full term of the warranty. The service warranty ends short of the car warranty, so I think they can't designate a brand specific oil, only specify minimum requirements of the oil. That might not even be synthetic, it will say in the owners manual.

 

I think they can specify using OEM, just like if you wore your clutch out or brake pads (any wearing 'consumable') they only proceed to cover it, and sometimes associated parts like the rotors for example or the engine in the case of engine oil under the rest of the warranty if the worn part is replaced with OEM. The manual does state "Use only approved MINI Hi Performance Synthetic Oil" (page 115) and they also state that you should ask the dealer for details on '..synthetic oils which have been approved.' so they might say its okay to use xyz oil in lieu of MINI brand. I'd be curious if anyone has asked and what the dealer said.

 

Note, they do NOT say a BRAND, they can't unless they buy everyone's oil until the end of the warranty period.

 

I think the MINI in 'MINI Hi Performance Synthetic Oil' is the brand, like they have BMW branded oil (made by Castrol) - that is what I meant by OEM. Then they say you can ask about other approved brands.

 

Your VW didn't come with synthetic either. Not even new Audi's come with synthetic, and their service interval is 10K. It certainly isn't wrong to change your oil earlier, I just don't think it's a must these days. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it! BTW, BMW is changing your oil for free because Audi started first with the "free" service while under warranty. It use to be that motors were best run in with natural oil, then a switch to synthetic would seal the deal. Those "old" motors would never break if you started with synthetic. Modern motors take 10s of thousands of miles to truly run in. It could just be that all the junk in the oil is helping the break in. Just a thought. BMWs first oil change is at 15K. Engines are sealed very well these days. You won't hurt the motor at all to change the oil at the manufacturer's intervals. It has ZERO to do with the cost of the oil at the service. They're not that concerned about your nickels. If anything, the price you pay for the car already has the services included. They're not loosing anything.

Cheers!

 

so... we figured out to change the oil if you really wanna, but you ain't gotta....

however, the post-breakin procedure that orginally started the thread.. was kinda avoided....

how about that question...

"any suggestions/advise on how to work my way up to the rev limiter?

Was thinking no more that 4500rpm in any gear this week (and actually hitting the 4500 mark, which i didn't do during break-in very often) and up it by 500 rpm a week until at rev limit.... "

 

I've been observing the 4500 rpm limit since I got my car two weeks ago, although I've bumped up to 5K or so a few times. After I hit 1200, it'll be "drive it like you stole it." I'm an old school guy that believes a little easy break-in on a new engine is a good thing, but no need to get **** about it. My S54 engined M3 now has 54K miles on it, have followed only the factory recommendations for service/oil changes, and it still runs like a top, never burns a drop of oil. I expect my MINI engine to last for years with the recommended intervals as well.