Ok, this is new to me: after almost two years of ownership, I pushed down on the drivers door lock button while the door was open. Now I can't get it up again (stop snickering -- No Viagra links please....) I searched several threads but didn't find this exact problem. I tried the central unlock; tried to use the key; tried the remote; got in and drove above 10 mph to activate the automatic locks; nada. By the sound of it, the door is locking and unlocking, but the button isn't moving. Being the good engineer I am, of course, I pushed down the passenger door button. Now they're both stuck down.

Am I missing a trick here?

 

You broke it.

 

Wow... you got me.. Did you try reading the owners manual. The mini uses the same lock system as BMW uses. It throws a dead bolt and is not your normal lock setup. You might try the BMW forums too as someone has probably done this before...

 

2.0 Functional Overview ( by Paul Reitz prreitz@amp.com BMW CCA #1167)

Intended Operation The system allows the entire car to be locked from either front door key lock, the trunk key lock, or by depressing the driver's door lock button inside the car. It also allows the car to be double-locked (from the driver's side key lock) so an intruder cannot unlock the car just by breaking a window or using a tool to lift one of the door lock buttons. If the car is locked - but not double-locked - it can be unlocked via the key lock from either front door or the trunk, or by lifting either front door lock button from the inside. The doors automatically unlock via an inertia switch that operates on impact greater than 5g. Door lock buttons on 4 door models have no control over central locking, although they can lock, and under certain circumstances unlock that particular door. Never double-lock a car with occupants inside!

The system consists of the following components: Key lock cylinders in each front door (and the trunk), which operate the door latches that prevent the door handles from operating, and which in turn have mechanical linkages to the door lock button and to the door lock motor unit mounted inside the door cavity. (There is also a trunk lid lock motor unit that locks the trunk latch button, and a gas filler lock motor.) Most door lock motor units have two motors: = the door lock motor, which operates the door latch locking mechanism and door lock button, and the double-lock motor, which "pins" the mechanical linkages and the door latch so they cannot be manually unlocked. The driver's door and trunk lack the double-lock motor; the trunk doesn't need one, since there's no "lock button" there, and the driver's door is double-locked by the mechanical constraint of the 90 degree position of the key lock cylinder. The door lock motor unit also contains the lock and unlock switches which send "lock" and "unlock" signals to the Central Lock Control Unit (CLCU). The CLCU contains some electronics and the LOCK and UNLOCK relays, each of which has a set of normally-open and normally-closed contacts with a common connection, and which operate all door motors. The CLCU is located behind the speaker in the left front kick panel.

In addition, there are microswitches mounted on the front door key lock cylinders. On the driver's door, this is the "unlock inhibit" microswitch, which closes only when the key lock cylinder is rotated to the 90 degree position, and initiates double-locking. A similarly positioned microswitch in the front passenger's door is operated at the 45 degree key position, but is used for unlocking only.

Locking and Unlocking When a door or trunk key lock is turned 45 degrees, or the driver's door lock button is depressed, linkages move to close a "Lock" switch contact in the respective door lock motor unit. This contact grounds the Lock input on the CLCU, which, if the car is presently unlocked, momentarily energizes the "LOCK" relay. This relay has a normally closed (NC) contact and a normally open (NO) contact, with a common connection. (Technically, an SPDT relay.) The common is wired to one side of all door lock and double-lock motors; the NC contact goes to ground, and the NO contact goes to +12 volts via fuse #27. When the relay operates, current flows through the (now closed) NO contact, through the door lock motors to ground through the other, unenergized relay's (still closed) NC contact. The motors run to a physical limit and stall; the relay is de-energized after about 1 second, and current flow ceases.

Unlocking operates analogously, via "Unlock" switches and the UNLOCK relay. The manner of operation of the Lock and Unlock relays is to just reverse the polarity of power applied to the door lock and double-lock motors, except that the UNLOCK relay contact common is not wired directly to the double-lock motors. Only one relay operates at a time.

One side of all door lock and double-lock motors is connected to the LOCK relay common, but the other connection of the double-lock motors is to pin 11 of the CLCU, which is at the junction of two "steering" diodes. One of these diodes is connected to the "unlock inhibit" input (pin 10 of the CLCU), and provides a ground return for the double-lock motors only when the driver's door microswitch has been closed (by turning the key lock to 90 degrees.)

Although the passenger's door lock motor unit contains both "lock" and "unlock" contacts, only the "lock" contact is connected. This allows the passenger to lock the entire car from the inside, but not to unlock it. Unlocking from the passenger's side can only be done by closing the microswitch in the passenger's door with the key, from outside the vehicle. If the car is double-locked, the passengers' door double-lock motor prevents the key lock from being rotated so the car can only be unlocked from the driver's door.

Double-locking The front passenger (and any rear door) door lock motor units contain a double-lock motor. When it is activated, it mechanically locks the linkages themselves, preventing the door lock buttons from being lifted, thus making unauthorized entry more difficult.

When the driver's door key lock is first rotated to 45 degrees and the "Lock" relay operates, 12 volts is applied to the double-lock motors via the LOCK relay common, but the other double-lock motor connection via the diode junction offers no return path to ground, so the double-lock motors do not operate. When the driver's door lock key is turned to 90 degrees, it closes the "unlock inhibit" microswitch, which grounds the "unlock inhibit request input", CLCU pin 10. Now, a complete return path is created from the double-lock motors to ground via pin 11, through the diode to pin 10, through the (closed) unlock inhibit microswitch. The closure to ground of the microswitch also signals the "unlock inhibit request", which operates the "LOCK" relay. This time, because of the ground return through the steering diode, the double-lock motors also operate, and the door lock linkages are latched in the locked position.

The driver's door itself does not have a double-lock motor; removing the door key in the 90 degree position jams that door's latch (and lock button), serving the same function. The grounded unlock inhibit microswitch prevents the trunk key lock from creating an unlock event.

Unlocking a double-locked car This action can only be initiated from the driver's door key lock. When the key is rotated CCW from its double-locked position, it releases the ground connection of the unlock inhibit microswitch. (Actually, once this is done, the trunk key lock can also be used to unlock the car.) As the key is rotated another =89 90=B0 CCW, it mechanically unlocks the door latch, raises the door lock button and moves the door lock linkage to a position that closes an unlock switch. The "UNLOCK" relay operates, and unlocks all doors. (During any UNLOCK relay operation, 12 volts is also applied to the second steering diode, which allows the double-lock motors to operate.) The current return path to ground from all lock and double-lock motors is via their connection to the (unenergized) LOCK relay NC contact to ground. The double lock motors operate quickly enough to also allow the door lock motors to operate.

 

Mike

I don't even have this problem...but your answers simply amaze me.
Whenever I have a problem... I'm calling on you!

 

I removed mine on purpose. They are only there so you can see the door is/not locked. I got tired of getting my arm pinched every time I'd drive off with my arm on the door sill If your into that kind of thing , remove your door sill (see squeaky window fix thread) Roll up window, reach up there & poke them out.

 

I think I might want to do the same... What did you put in their place? Does it look cool? Pics? :smile:

 

That's a heck of a reply. I need to re-read it because my friends E46 4-door does that. It won't unlock the doors from the inside with or without the remote except for the driver side door. The key unlocks the driver side doors.

 

nothing yet. I'll probably hot-glue a garnet or moonstone there. Need to see what I have that size.

 

opal fits, plus I have 2

 

Thanks. Owners manual was no help, I'll try the BMWCCA forum. Thanks for the detailed description as well. Is it just me, or does that seem a bit over-engineered like the windo-dip? I tried to use the key and the mini door lock just goes 90 degrees left or right. Turning, turning and holding, locking and unlocking, nothing seems to help....

They mystery continues. In the software world we would call this an "undocumented feature".....

 

I had my locks replaced under warranty. One side kept sticking, and it kept screwing up the whole system.

 

I agree about the lock system being over-engineered. But... it does make it more difficult for a thief when he can break the glass but still can't open the doors.
I do like the window dip.. It keeps the interior quiet and the windows won't suck out at speed. More complex for sure... but it has its benefits.
Along with the benefits comes cost, complexity and weight.. so its all a compromise... good luck on your fix... err, bugs