R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Bad Shift lInkage?

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Old Mar 22, 2026 | 04:22 AM
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Bad Shift lInkage?

Drove the car just now. And I tried to down shift into 2nd gear, from 3rd gear. I couldn't find 2nd gear at all. Same with 1st. And when I did put it into 1st gear, it grind-ed. Go back home. Luckily, I was near. As I get home, I attempt to go through all the gears. It went in like normal, if anything, possibly with more slop. Other than that, there are no odd sounds or anything. Clutch bite point is the same.

2003 r53 with a craven speed short throw shifter.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2026 | 07:43 AM
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Check your Shifter Linkage connections, inspect the cable bushings, take a look at this artical ... Pelican Technical Article: Shift Cable Replacement - - R53 MINI Cooper S (2002-06)

Also could be needing adjusted ...

Best of luck,

Motor On!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2026 | 11:00 AM
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If not a clutch issue and perhaps a shift link issue -
Just adding to my personal experience :
You may want to take a look at your shift-weight bushings while your in there. They may be excessively worn and need replacing. A seller on eBay (from Belarus) sells a bushing kit alone (I've replaced mine with his kit ). To the best of my knowledge; no one in the US sells the replacement bushings by themselves. Detroit Tuned sells complete refurbished/like new shift-weights for about $200.
EDIT: In addition / to look for - Pull the shifter boot up and check to see of the plastic "ball surround" has cracked, split or broken. You can re-grease it with white lithium if it also seems dry....
 

Last edited by Here2Go; Mar 23, 2026 at 11:09 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2026 | 02:32 PM
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+1 check shifter and cables
 
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Old Mar 23, 2026 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Here2Go
If not a clutch issue and perhaps a shift link issue -
Just adding to my personal experience :
You may want to take a look at your shift-weight bushings while your in there. They may be excessively worn and need replacing. A seller on eBay (from Belarus) sells a bushing kit alone (I've replaced mine with his kit ). To the best of my knowledge; no one in the US sells the replacement bushings by themselves. Detroit Tuned sells complete refurbished/like new shift-weights for about $200.
EDIT: In addition / to look for - Pull the shifter boot up and check to see of the plastic "ball surround" has cracked, split or broken. You can re-grease it with white lithium if it also seems dry....

Are the shift weight bushings the ones I circled in red? If so. I I installed the aluminum ones that come with the Cravenspeed Short throw shifter.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2026 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BMH94

Are the shift weight bushings the ones I circled in red? If so. I I installed the aluminum ones that come with the Cravenspeed Short throw shifter.
No - Actually, this is what I was referring to:

Assuming you have an R53/6 speed; The shift weight as shown above, is mounted to the top of the transmission.
It is best accessed from the top by removing the airbox. The shift cables are attached to it by its balljoints.
The white bushings are what eventually wear and maybe (POSSIBLY), contribute to be the cause of your shifting issues.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2026 | 02:38 PM
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Awesome info, thanks!! I have been a little busy. But hopefully, I can check it tomorrow, or, this weekend.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2026 | 07:12 PM
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Anyone see anything wrong?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2026 | 08:27 PM
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With regards to the shift-weight bushings: It is hard if not impossible to see their actual condition unless you remove it. In the fourth pic looking down from the top, The top of the white rectangle bushing doesn't appear to have excessive wear. However, the real wear occurs within its inner walls where the shaft moves around and wears out the inside. Unfortunately there is no way to see the condition of the pivot bolt bushing without removing it. Trust me - that pivot bolt is/can be a real PIA to remove; threadlocked and torqued down with gorilla force and doesn't allow much room or access to work in. Not impossible; but can be a pain.
I would look at other potential suspects (as mentioned in the other replies) that maybe the cause relating to the issue before moving on to removing the shift weight.

I'm not 100% certain the shift-weight (bushings) is the problem.
 

Last edited by Here2Go; Mar 27, 2026 at 08:09 AM.
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Old Mar 27, 2026 | 07:53 AM
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i dont see anything jumping out. however something that might be worth looking into

there was a change in the cables at one point, an upgrade to metal at the red arrows in the pic attached



 
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Old Mar 27, 2026 | 07:54 AM
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modemini has a vid about it
 
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Old Mar 27, 2026 | 10:19 AM
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Yeah, I noticed those broken metal retainer clips also.
Shift cables feel solid on the ball ends. I'll double check.

Then, I'll pull the shifter to see how it looks in there.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2026 | 12:52 PM
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Anyone notice anything wrong?

 
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Old Mar 28, 2026 | 12:54 PM
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And of course, as I'm trying to see what was the reason(s) of me not being able to find 1st or 2nd(and when it did, grinded), it is now going through all the gates fine.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2026 | 03:06 PM
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Looks ok from here

everything tight? or does it play? i'd give everything a shake test. make sure it was tight.

the other part of this is the connections of the cables underneath

not sure how far you want to go with this. you’ve already gone pretty far
 
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Old Mar 31, 2026 | 07:24 PM
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By shake test, do you mean the shifter?

The shift cables, at ball joints are not popping off when I pry(lightly) on them with a flat head screwdriver.

I will at least put some lithium grease on the shift lever ball,.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2026 | 02:19 PM
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yes. i mean make sure there is no play in anything related to the shifter, shifter box.

the cables have ball joints at the transmission AND under (inside) the shifter box

if i went in that far i think i might upgrade the cables to the facelift version. modmini has a good vid on this
 
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