i feel you on managing scope creep. incrementally, though, the whole timing kit isn't much more work from what you already had done. that said, you're not in much danger of hurting anything extra so don't sweat it at this point.

if/when the guides fail you'll hear chatter from the engine and you'll have to pull off everything you just did. but, as you know by now, it's really not that bad of a job.

 

incrementally, it seems like the right thing to have done, in hindsight. after looking in to it a bit more, it seems the timing is really easy on this motor. it would have been one extra step, removing the valve cover

 

yes sir, i did burp them, but almost didn't

 

more work.

-new oil filter housing and heat exchanger
-installed powerflex inserts for the trans mount
-repaired oil pan plug threads

 

Ha,ha - Glad to see you hadn't used the powerflex.com pictures for reference when you installed the gearbox bushings. I don't mean to criticize PF but their trans bushing insallation reference pics for the bushings on an R53 are installed backwards!.
I was working on multiple replacement parts and repairs to shifter cables and upgrading to PF trans bushings which took longer than expected. I had forgotten which way the original trans bushings were installed. I went ahead and installed the new PF trans bushings the way PF had them facing on their website. I eventually figured out something didn't look right after putting everything back together.
I took everything back apart and flipped the bushing in the correct orientation. Mind you; it wouldn't have been so aggravating if I hadn't been for just freshly painting my trans mount & support bracket. Nothing worse than messing up a nice paint job.
I let Corey know about the pics. But I don't remember if they ever fixed on their website

 

those bushing on the trans mount make a big difference!

my mount was partially corroded and the bushing was shot, so i bought a new chinese mount and installed powerflex bushing inserts.

 

Yesterday I replaced a timing chain tensioner and I thought, let's give the uncompressed option a go.
Boy was I wrong! It is doable and I got there in the end but it took me a long time to press on the bolt, turning it as you go and find the first thread to get it situated.

I don't think I will do it again because I was fighting it in an awkward angle for about 30min.

 

Timing chain -
I'm going to try to tackle this job myself...soon.
These are all great insight.
I'm not sure if I will be replacing the chain though.
Very good thread. I'm enjoying reading and following along.

 

more work today

-resealed the water pump side of SC with high temp gasket maker
-changed the oil on the SC
-started on reassembly (did not take a pic. ran out of sun)

I got stuck on the throttle body. the bracket, off the trans, is not lining up with the mounting points). anyone seen that?

 

@ssoliman nice work so far!

Ahh yes the pesky throttle body bracket... ensure your plastic charge pipe is properly installed. That small wide rubber hose can be a bugger. After that loosen the bracket, test fit the throttle body. Remove the throttle body gently and tighten the bracket, then reinstall. Patience is your friend here for sure. Best of luck

 

similar to scoobaru above, as i remember, i had it all fit loosely as i assembled and had to coax it all back together. then when it was fairly straight i was able to start tightening down things.

that plastic charge pipe in particular, i remember lubing the green gasket with some spit to get it completely mated.

 

yes sirs, right again.

what worked for me was leaving the two bolts on the bracket loose, very loose. once I got the four bolts on the throttle body tight, I tightened the bracket. access from under throttle body

some rubber assembly lubricant on the horn gasket. or penetrant spray helps. same for the oring on the water pump

 

more work yesterday.

-fixed the one broken vacuum line and got them installed
-got the throttle body (and charger) back on
-new crank position sensor oring
-some heat wrap on the ac and alt cables
-installed new brake reservoir

im on the home stretch yall

need to bleed brakes and adjust e-brakes. and CLEAN (engine, suspension, subframe, power steering)

 

the generic vacuum line fitting from Dorman worked. to get the fitting on to the plastic hose I had to heat it. used a heat gun. it went in but not as far as I would have liked.

 

quick update and a question

-bled the brakes and clutch
-tried to adjust the parking brake, failed
-continued re-assembly. ready for a test start. need to get some engine oil and coolant

any tips on adjusting the parking brake? right side locks, left does not

some pics:

 

Absolutely awesome work!
​​​If it's not too much of a PIA - Before you commence to bleeding the hydraulic system; I might suggest adhereing a strip of Gorilla tape along the back edge of the brake fluid reservoir (like where the old one had split). Believe me when I tell you that it will save you from having to buy
a new one next time around. I've done this to mine and has lasted/ prevented against degrading three years now going strong.

 

thank you for the tip. I thought about it after getting it back on.

going to pick up some tape and try and get it in place with out removing it. might have to take it back out

 

the parking brake on my mini didn't work very well when i bought it. after investigation and attempts to adjust it, i found that one caliper needed to be replaced. once i did that the parking brake worked perfectly.

i found steps for adjusting it, but if i remember, it was something along the lines of 2 clicks up and it should start to grab and like 4 clicks up should be able to hold the car. i don't remember exactly, but the process was based on how many clicks up and that was how to set the tension.

 

i found your old thread. looks like in your case it was a frozen caliper.

that could be my issue. however i did just recently rebuild them. looked good. also was able to push the piston back in. although i'm not sure it was all the way in. not sure how far back it should go. It went back a few turns from where it was and i have new (thick) pads

 

If you already worked on your calipers then they're probably fine. The main thing I remember was that the parking brake cable didn't activate the caliper so that was an obvious issue haha

 

update, got very close to finishing this round of maintenance today.

-filled and bled the cooling system
-engine oil
-heat taped the brake reservoir (along the back)
-fixed parking brake issue (more on this in a sec)
-replaced shift **** (aftermarket **** broke on me)

started the engine after turning it with the starter for a bit (spark wires disconnected). started. no leaks that I can see yet. engine temps were good. however my low speed fan did not come on. looks like the infamous fan resister died on me. I believe it's original, so fair enough. I ordered a new fan

the parking brake. turns out, the piston was not moving with the parking brake or brake pedal. seemed to be frozen. as some suspected. I took the caliper off and used the special tool to turn it out a bit. pressed the brake and it was moving again. fixed.

apparently it was my mistake. I over pressed the piston. pushed it back too far / hard. didn't even know that was possible. lessen learned


back on the ground. waiting for the fan. in desperate need of wash

 

Now - Let's not forget about polishing out those headlight lenses .
Impressive amount of work btw!!!

 

way overdue!

 

@ssoliman great work, promising results. Interesting hangup on the caliper but good to note. Hopefully happy motoring ahead! Enjoy the finishing touches

 

@Scoobaru2010 thank you Sir. feels good to make progress. still more to do but progress none the less

yesterday I gave it a good wash. the paint is showing its age. but I'll deal with that later