R50/53 Supercharger service, plus a few other items
***question on the supercharger***
is it a good idea to seal the water pump side with high temperature gasket maker?
seems like the oil might have escaped / leaked out from this side as a common issue.
is it a good idea to seal the water pump side with high temperature gasket maker?
seems like the oil might have escaped / leaked out from this side as a common issue.
that vacuum line should work with generic connectors like you got.
i don't remember what i did on mine with the water pump. i think i searched online and found that no one used RTV, but i can't remember with any certainty.
i don't remember what i did on mine with the water pump. i think i searched online and found that no one used RTV, but i can't remember with any certainty.
there was a video I saw, guy owned a business that rebuilds superchargers. he mentioned that with our SC the main issue was the seal leaking on the water pump side. then the gears on that side burn up. I notice, on mine, the water pump side of the case was dirty. like from the oil leaking out over time.
he didn't mention how he remedied the issue. guess thats the secret sauce
he didn't mention how he remedied the issue. guess thats the secret sauce
Last edited by ssoliman; Oct 24, 2025 at 05:44 AM.
I kinda feel like I should have rebuilt mine instead of buying replacements. The passenger side on mine leaks where it goes into the transmission. I've replaced the seal twice. But my originals were turned in as cores, unfortunately.
the left one is unknown
the right is now half GKN and half original. the GKN half is from a left side axle, originally
thank you, Dale. i think i am going to do the same on the water pump side. the pulley side was air tight so i will prob leave it be
sorry did not included enough detail
the chain is in place. will not be doing the chain, tensioner rails, sprockets etc this round. the valve cover is not coming off this time and the chain cover is already back on.
compressed or uncompressed?
the chain is in place. will not be doing the chain, tensioner rails, sprockets etc this round. the valve cover is not coming off this time and the chain cover is already back on.
compressed or uncompressed?
thank you for the feedback, Gents. I did see that video.
TIS also says to install it compressed and then "ratchet it out with a lever". that would be from the top, if the valve cover were off (the valve cover is not off).
I can't help but think that it would be safer to install it in the extended position. That way i am sure that the chain will be in tension on first start
i'm i overthinking it?
TIS also says to install it compressed and then "ratchet it out with a lever". that would be from the top, if the valve cover were off (the valve cover is not off).
I can't help but think that it would be safer to install it in the extended position. That way i am sure that the chain will be in tension on first start
i'm i overthinking it?
i think your risk with doing it expanded would be in trying to make sure you get the tensioner cover plug back in place properly. the risk with doing it compressed and letting the engine pop it out would be that the timing chain could skip a tooth before the slack comes out.
i think it would be less effort to retighten the plug than address a skipped tooth.
i installed mine with the oil pump removed. i was able to look at it both ways and spent a little time playing around with the two options. i don't think you really are going to create any problems for yourself doing it expanded. that's what i would do.
i think it would be less effort to retighten the plug than address a skipped tooth.
i installed mine with the oil pump removed. i was able to look at it both ways and spent a little time playing around with the two options. i don't think you really are going to create any problems for yourself doing it expanded. that's what i would do.
thats what I was thinking. still waiting on the new cap / bolt with crush washer. waiting on delivery but not sure yet what I will do.
seems like its accessible from the top. so I could always do it later when I have the valve cover off.
now I'm feeling like I should have pulled the valve cover and done the chain, sprockets, guides. How important is replacing the chain and sprocket as a maintenance item (not currently having any issues at ~160k miles)
trying to avoid scope creep on this round of work
seems like its accessible from the top. so I could always do it later when I have the valve cover off.
now I'm feeling like I should have pulled the valve cover and done the chain, sprockets, guides. How important is replacing the chain and sprocket as a maintenance item (not currently having any issues at ~160k miles)
trying to avoid scope creep on this round of work
Make sure you burp the boots.







