Hello everyone...I have not been on this forum for a very long time and most of my R53 friends here have moved on...But I'm still having fun my 22 year old MCS with 114k miles and 245whp. I was driving her every other month up and then one day, she didn't start...all lights came on, fuel pump ran but rotating switch to start and nothing, not even a click. The battery is in good condition and always on a smart tender. I checked the clutch switch and fuses but eventually got frustrated, put the cover on her to try another day. Today I took off the cover and jacked her up to have reach of the starter and save the tires. Just for the hell of it, I tried cranking her over. This time it did click a few times but no start so I shut off the ignition. But then it kept making this noise. Even after I pulled the key out. This video is short and quiet so you need to turn up the volume... but the first time it did this after the keys was removed the clicking noise continued for almost 30 seconds! What could be making this noise when the keys are out? Any help would be appreciated...from an old timer...

 

Would like to help. But video doesn't work for me.

 

Sounds like a relay clicking to me.
You could clean the grounds and try again.

 

Maybe the ignition switch is bad - the physical switch part - not the key and tumbler.

 

I tried adding the video but it only adds as an attachment that needs to be downloaded...

 

I tried adding the video like an image but it would only allow me as an attachment
Thanks, I'll try that...why would the relay continue to click after the key has been removed?
Thanks, I'm terrible at electronics...might have to have a specialist look at this

 

There are lots of modules in a car and even when you turn the car off it takes around 10-20 minutes before they go to sleep.

A very wild guess: so something is trying to do something when you try to start the car or you take out the key. Like a relay gets closed but the circuit might still be broken by a bad ground, resulting in the module trying again and again.

In my head this makes sense but I'm terrible at electronics too so it's probably something else.

Now I think of it, are there any fuses blown?

 

Thanks for your feedback...I was not able to locate any burnt fuses. Many have suspected a bad starter but now I'm thinking it's more complicated than that...might have to bite the bullet and take it in for service...

 

could be a bad battery. have it tested at auto zone or the like. load tested

 

I'm curious as to how you got 245hp at the wheel. What are your mods?

 

I will give that a shot first before taking her in...thanks!

 

I'll give this a go before taking her in...thanks!

 

I've gone through many stages of engine modifications over the life of my Mini...including Nitrous at one time...the final dyno numbers was done by Sneed Speed, NC with custom big valve head + RMW long headers + custom exhaust + custom tune + DDM Works CAI = 245whp at 7,000rpm...

 

Hey @MSFITOY

Two things come to mind for me, one of which plagued me for a minute.

Ignition switch, the barrel the key goes into. These are prone to being a nuisance, but they can be cleaned after taken apart. Or simply replaced. I however do not know of a way to test one for full functionality. I had spares on hand and swapped it out to cure my issue when it was present.

Starter, has the starter ever been replaced? Put the car in gear, and rock it back and forth (or if the fronts off the ground, put in gear and rock the front wheels) it may cause the pin within the starter to pop back into position, allowing the it to start again. If above works, your starter is toast.

 

That's intriguing...the starter is original so even if it's working, I should replace it...the ignition has been mentioned and also suspect...

1-install new battery, see what happens.
2-rock/tap starter, see what happens
3-install new ignition switch

Are there threads on how to replace ignition switch?

You guys are great! Appreciate everyone's input very much!

 

I like your plan of action, well done.

Ignition switch can be had in about a minute or two,
- remove the plastic knee plate below the wheel
- remove the rubber ignition surround
- remove two torx screws and pop off the steering shaft cover
- disconnect the wiring plug

The switch itself is held in with two tiny set screws, DO NOT back these out all the way, the switch can be removed without completely removing the set screws. From there is easy, quick video below of a gent tackling this on an R50.

Best of luck

 

Awesome! Thanks for the link...I'll go ahead and replace it for the fun of it...if it's not too expensive...

 

Check the ground strap on passenger side where the aluminum upper motor mount to cylinder head is located ; that would cause this if it is loose …

 

Yes, thank you...I will look at that as well...

 

My vote is with the ignition switch...hope that's it since it's a quick, cheap fix. I'm not too far behind you with a 23 year old R53 with 58k and 230 hp. Very fun track toy!!

 

Ignition switch ordered...congrats on a classic...

 

Keep us updated.

As mentioned, throughly inspect the ground wire on passenger side engine mount, if memory serves correct you can remove the bolts without touching anything else. Inspect and clean those connection's. Check the actual wire for damage.

Be patient and you'll find a solution!

 

I will, thanks! Probably won't get back to working on her till the next vacation days this summer but I think I have a strategy now:

1-replace battery
2-check ground
3-replace ignition switch
4-try starting
5-no start, look at starter =(

Stay tuned...

 

Solid plan, you'll get it. Don't get complicated yet. Its highly electrical related, and a simple one to diagnose.

I had my EWS (antitheft) activate and stop the car from starting. It would crank over for a decade if needed and not start. So your likely not looking at a overly involved job!