I'm having some shoulder probs and the tension to move the shifter over to the 5th and 6th gear slot is giving me grief. Feels like a spring in there and I'm sure the design is to guard against mis shifts, but I would really like to reduce this spring tension. Any ideas? I haven't removed the shifter box and investigated yet, but I'll bet you guys have been in there to know.
TIA

 

OK, I'll go first...

What model year R53? If 2002 or 2003 (possibly also early 2004 models), different shifter box and cables than 2004 on. If the earlier version, the issue might not be in the shifter box but the cables at the transmission end which are prone to fatigue and failure. If so, later version cables can be installed but only in combo with the later box. Here's "what's inside" the later "facelift" style shifter box. If unsure what version, carefully pop up the shifter boot from inside. If the housing is off-white vs black, it's the earlier version. It's also possible the plastic "bushing" on the shifter box topside has fatigued and is partially broken.

 

I'm not convinced that it's a wear thing, as every R53 I've driven has been 'firm' laterally, including going to the 5/6 slot. I don't have shoulder issues, but long drives have always caused me some post drive soreness, and friends have complained about the same. I'd be curious as to what could be done to reduce some of the force required.

 

^^^ My own experience is limited to prox 3k miles driving the OEM 2006 shifter with B&M SSK installed and then prox 1k miles currently with low-mileage donor shifter box with the Cravenspeed machined bushing kit installed. Time driving my buddy's 2006 R53 JCW with OEM-stock shifter currently at prox 8.6k miles is limited, thus can't truly comment on lateral firmness. I will say, though, that I truly like the adjustable feel with that bushing kit installed, which I lubed very generously with Super Lube. I'm curious whether others with the same bushing kit agree with my own observations.

 

Worn Shift weight bushings (under the airbox/ mounted on top of the trans) can cause stiff or hard shifting issues as well.
I had experienced stiff shifting and replaced the bushings I bought from and eBay seller from Belarus. The new bushings made a tremendous difference in resolving my stiff shifting issues.



But ultimately the real problem was with my transmission and had to be replaced.

Not sure if this will resolve some of your shifter problems as it helped mine - but I will say that changing out the shift weight bushings (although easy) maybe a bit strenuous task with an achy shoulder.

 

^^^ We're all just guessing until the OP responds with what he has - 2002-2003 or 2004+ shifter box/cable combo, which might narrow down the root cause possibilities...

 

Sorry MCS got busy with stuff and just got a little time. My car is a pre facelift 2004. It shifts well and smooth, but it seems like the spring loading the lateral movement to get to the 5/6th slot seems heavy. Not sticky or anything. I have a similar issue with my 71 corvette (t56 trans), and on that trans there is a spring that actually provides the extra tension to keep you from accidentally shifting into reverse (solenoid too but the spring is for tension), and you can change the spring for a lighter one. It's also a direct mechanical linkage though and not cables though so there are a few more things to consider on the mini.
I'm wondering if the spring on the mini is in the transmission or in the shifter box. Idk if mine is a black or white box though, things seem to point to mine being a later pre-face.
Thanks for everyone's help, I'll try get a peek at the box soon but I have a shift boot delete and I'll have to detach the console to get a look.

 

As to whether the shifters are "spring loaded", nope. To provide a better sense on the design differences plus R&R steps to replace if you go that route, watch forum member Mod MINI's tutorial video in which he shows failure points on the original cables and shows how the shift lever freely moves without binding whatsoever when disconnected. The video is 14 mins but he outlines all that within the first 1.5 mins before proceeding with the R&R...

 

Hey that tells me all I need to know MCS, thanks. Thanks to modmini too!
The tension has to come from the gearbox, and even though I have to pull the motor and trans this summer for a clutch and long overdue maintenance items, I'll probably leave well enough alone. Have other projects competing for time. Thank you for the help, maybe someone else will dig into this a little deeper, but it's not a concern for most people. I'm 66yrs old and in pretty good shape. I have a weight room and work out twice a week now just for maintenance but the older you get the more new issues and "new normals" come up, the shifter in the corvette started this pain in my shoulder and the mini has exacerbated it ( 5/6th in the mini, only reverse in the vette). I'll figure out a work around though as I love driving the mini!

 

I'm with you with regards to investigating and finding a fix for the shifter issue. If no resolve...
Just a thought though: Might replacing the factory shifter with an aftermarket short throw shifter be out of the question?

I am somewhat of a purist (what OEM/OE I can afford), when it comes to my Mini but if all else; there maybe some alternatives that may merit consideration.

Again, just a thought.

 

Im not above using an aftermarket short shifter, but usually a shorter throw means a little less leverage and a little more effort which would be counterproductive in my case. Im open to ideas though.

 

A Short Shifter Kit (SSK) has offsetting disadvantages depending on objectives and preferences, which is why I reverted to OEM stock (but with the previously shown bushing kit). An aspect to consider would be a heavier shift **** which helps with inertia. As others here have done, I chose a Raceseng **** for the original shifter with SSK, liked it a lot and continue using it currently with much satisfaction.