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Introducing my new to me 06 S. I’m sure I’m going to have a lot of questions and appreciate any help I can get when needed. List of mod it came with below.
I’m different than most on that. Bmws had plastic expansion tanks as a safety mechanism, like a fuse. Better the easily replaceable tank blown than something more serious like a head gasket due to over pressure. And I’ve dealt with them blowing out before due to age as well.
I don’t plan on changing either of ours to metal unless the plastics get ridiculously priced or supply dries up. But it isn’t a bad idea to swap them every few years once they get opaque and the plastic starts changing, because then you are getting to where they no longer have original strength.
I reserve the right to change my mind if I find one that’s bolt in and uses a factory cap and doesn’t look garish.
Meh. I’ve never bought that argument. It’s just a poorly designed part made out of a cheap material that fails with age. The radiator cap is the safety.
I still have the plastic radiator overflow tank. Any suggestion on an aluminum one?
Industry standard seems to be Canton or Forge. They're not cheap at $200-300. https://www.outmotoring.com/_search....categoryid=261
If that's out of the budget would go high quality OEM/OE quality plastic from one of the vendors. Note they're not 'lifetime replacement' eligible on most sites which is telling.
I’m different than most on that. Bmws had plastic expansion tanks as a safety mechanism, like a fuse.
Meh. I’ve never bought that argument. It’s just a poorly designed part made out of a cheap material that fails with age. The radiator cap is the safety.
Can see both sides of this discussion. Mine turned brown and failed, seeping along the middle seam (where they all fail). Only outward indication was the radiator fan cycling to high speed at idle, AC not on, cool day even after shut off (although it also needed a new fan resistor, like all these cars do) and the smell of hot coolant coming from...somewhere; no puddle under the car. Dash gauge indicated high normal but not (yet) above the tick mark. But once I looked under the hood it was obvious. Got lucky that day; a lot of tank failures aren't so 'graceful.'
Lesson learned: when the tank turns brown, don't leave town, replace it today!
Personally I went with a used aluminum tank (bought from another NAM member) and a new cap. No issues with the tank so far but the cap eventually did fail after I took it off one too many times to check the level and it fell apart in my hand. URO brand for the record. Replaced it with a Febi and have an OEM / Gen MINI waiting in the glove box 'just in case' (next time).
The problem with these cars is they already run hot by design, as in well above boiling temperatures at sea level (because 'muh efficiency and emissions'). As long as the system stays pressurized, you're good to go. But if it doesn't...
I also need to raise the rear suspension. Currently on lowered Bilstein springs with Bilstein struts. Any recommendations for stock heights springs?
Have not installed them on this car yet but Bilstein B4 struts are stock height/ride and have a very good reputation for quality. Would go with those and an OEM quality stock spring replacement.
Can see both sides of this discussion. Mine turned brown and failed, seeping along the middle seam (where they all fail). Only outward indication was the radiator fan cycling to high speed at idle, AC not on, cool day even after shut off (although it also needed a new fan resistor, like all these cars do) and the smell of hot coolant coming from...somewhere; no puddle under the car. Dash gauge indicated high normal but not (yet) above the tick mark. But once I looked under the hood it was obvious.
My current symptoms exactly.
Originally Posted by Daftlad
Have not installed them on this car yet but Bilstein B4 struts are stock height/ride and have a very good reputation for quality. Would go with those and an OEM quality stock spring replacement.
I was hoping I could just replace the spring to get the height back? Do I need to replace the struts too?
I was hoping I could just replace the spring to get the height back? Do I need to replace the struts too?
Depending on what they are, maybe. Would ask the vendors. Generally struts and shocks are matched by design to the springs they serve for optimal ride quality, handling etc. If the previous owner replaced just the springs and kept the stock struts & shocks, then they could be fine with stock springs as long as they're not leaking, too crusty, or fail the bounce test.
Depending on what they are, maybe. Would ask the vendors. Generally struts and shocks are matched by design to the springs they serve for optimal ride quality, handling etc. If the previous owner replaced just the springs and kept the stock struts & shocks, then they could be fine with stock springs as long as they're not leaking, too crusty, or fail the bounce test.
Anyone knows which Bilstein struts and springs these are?
Unsure what springs those are but the circa 2006 Bilstein springs I removed were black. Whatever those are would concern me with apparent near coil binding going on at full suspension droop. Seems to me can't be much compression/rebound travel when on the ground. For comparison, below is the same RR corner with my Koni Yellows in comb with OEM JCW "reds" when I installed those:
Unsure what springs those are but the circa 2006 Bilstein springs I removed were black. Whatever those are would concern me with apparent near coil binding going on at full suspension droop. Seems to me can't be much compression/rebound travel when on the ground. For comparison, below is the same RR corner with my Koni Yellows in comb with OEM JCW "reds" when I installed those:
Thanks! I’m leaning toward replacing the struts and springs on all corners. Although It handles sharply, the ride is too harsh for my liking, plus it hits hard on every potholes and road imperfection. How do you like your setup. What would you recommend?
As stated above, I am thinking about replacing my struts and springs. Any advice, suggestion for purely street performance? The current setup I have is extreme sharp but rough. Thanks!
As stated above, I am thinking about replacing my struts and springs. Any advice, suggestion for purely street performance? The current setup I have is extreme sharp but rough. Thanks!
In my book that's a stock setup; factory grade springs struts & shocks, after replacing other worn components like ball joints, bushings, tie rods etc. Could also try higher profile (more balloon-y) tires; it's been done. Not sure how the adjustable sway bar on this car will play with a stock setup (also suspect the end links may be non-stock / specific to the sway bar); others will weigh in but might be good to retain it for some level of handling tuneability...
^^^ My R53 was originally set up for tracking by the original owner but not subsequently used for that (or essentially driven at all until I bought it). My objectives were to tame the suspension and other track-oriented aspects strictly for local streets and highways and I ultimately achieved all that. Mine has 100% poly bushings which add ride harshness, heavier front & rear sway bars plus combo of Koni Yellows and the former Bilstein springs.
The poly bushings and sway bars remain installed but I ditched the -1 profile 205/40R17 DOT track tires and replaced those with +1 profile 215/45R17 tires in combo with those JCW Sport "reds" springs (originally a dealer installed kit or standard on 2006 GP) claimed to have just 10mm drop vs OEM S-spec. In the end, I achieved much improved ride and restored ground clearance, which is necessary driving around my town. The JCW Sport spring P/Ns below were available in limited quantities in BMW Germany warehouse locations when I bought mine 2 years ago. Not the most economical option but well matched to the Koni Yellows. I'm delighted with the results.
^^^ My R53 was originally set up for tracking by the original owner but not subsequently used for that (or essentially driven at all until I bought it). My objectives were to tame the suspension and other track-oriented aspects strictly for local streets and highways and I ultimately achieved all that. Mine has 100% poly bushings which add ride harshness, heavier front & rear sway bars plus combo of Koni Yellows and the former Bilstein springs.
The poly bushings and sway bars remain installed but I ditched the -1 profile 205/40R17 DOT track tires and replaced those with +1 profile 215/45R17 tires in combo with those JCW Sport "reds" springs (originally a dealer installed kit or standard on 2006 GP) claimed to have just 10mm drop vs OEM S-spec. In the end, I achieved much improved ride and restored ground clearance, which is necessary driving around my town. The JCW Sport spring P/Ns below were available in limited quantities in BMW Germany warehouse locations when I bought mine 2 years ago. Not the most economical option but well matched to the Koni Yellows. I'm delighted with the results.
Koni Yellow are generally considered best suited for lowering springs, however the JCW 10mm lowering works fine on mine. Likely as well with Koni Reds too. If you go the JCW "reds" route, either use your preferred online genuine MINI parts dealer with direct dialog before placing an order, since those springs weren't then in stock in BMW USA warehouse locations. Alternatively, add all your items to cart on @ECS Tuning 's site, then either call them or do a live chat session. From that, appears rears are local stock which surprises me. I just now completed an online chat session with "Andy P" who was very helpful in overriding a very high default Milltek shipping quote vs $49+ achieves free shipping which Andy provided on my eligible total. You might ask and get a better deal for combo of shocks and springs if all ordered at one time.
When I ordered my springs 2 years ago, those 2 P/Ns were the only ones remaining from 3 P/N choices front and rear as determined by as-built VIN weight. Mine being very lightly optioned, those available springs were optimal.
Prices have gone up on everything - OEM BMW MINI parts no exception. Others will likely follow suggesting more economical options to consider.
Koni FSD's (reds) are super smooth, but also responsive and sporty. I have them with the stock springs on my r53 and the car handles better than my abilities will ever test. For tires, I went with an all-season performance 205 50 17's - and highly recommend them if you're looking to tame some harshness. As an added benefit, they fill up the wheel wells just that little bit more, and IMO, that makes the car look even better.
Thank you all for your help! Looking at all my options, what about coilovers? I don’t do track but still would like the option provided I can still daily drive it comfortably. Price wise if I go with struts and springs, I am not too far from let’s say a BCRacing DS coilover set.
