Hi all,

I’m cleaning up my block for a new head gasket and was wondering how much prep is needed. Will do the pistons tomorrow by the way. Ive used razor blade scraper and I’ve done some sanding with a wood block and 120, as well as a fine 3m pad, the maroon colored one. The black spots left from the gasket aren’t raised surfaces, so is it okay like this, or should I just keep going until it’s all fresh metal? I’ve put a film of oil to prevent rust but I’ll remove it with brake clean when I install the gasket. Is this standard practice?

Is it okay to spray brake clean in the threads for the head bolts or does all that end up in the oil pan? Do you recommend draining the oil and removing the oil pan/cleaning to make sure no sanding bits remain?

The ARP cam bolt doesn’t come with lubricant like the ARP studs. Is it not necessary for the cam bolt?

Is there an agreeable torque value for the ARP studs? Some ppl have reported, not mini specific, of studs loosening, so I’m unsure about how tight they should be.

 

- It really should be fresh metal, do your best with an oiled up Scotch-brite, I wouldn't use the sandpaper anymore from where you are. (Remember, time spent here, will only help in not having to repeat the job due to a poorly sealing gasket)
-Brake clean is fine, anything that evaporates, (puddle-ing in the hole will cause improper torque, so no oils, or engine degreaser)
-While it's not called for, I use blue loctite on my cam bolts
-Head studs should have come with install specs, if not check with ARP, you want them correct to avoid the issues you've read about.
-Permatex cooper gasket spray on both sides of your head gasket is something I always do, and at the very least won't hurt.

 

Thanks! This one?:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...0697/7160111-P

How come you use blue loctite? If no loctite, are these lightly oiled when torqued or do they go in dry?

Here’s another beginner question. Can I put a crank bolt in and turn the crank so all four pistons are as high and close to the deck as possible?
I’ve cleaned the piston head carbon for the most part, but there’s still some left on them between the grooves of the pistons. I watched a video of a guy using the scotch-brite pad and some wd-40 and it looked to do the trick. I’ve only used brake clean so far with a microfiber towel, but my main issue is that the pistons are all sitting 2 inches or so down so it’s a little awkward. I noticed a small score on the piston so I checked the valves and there’s a chunk of carbon build up on one of them that would correspond with this. It’s not a huge gouge but it has a slightly noticeable feel if I run my finger over.




I’ve def done a good bit of scotch brite on the deck at this point and I think what’s left is actually due to some pitting. Unless I got it surfaced, I don’t see the point in doing more. I wish I could do that but I’m not even working from home. I’m unfortunately not in a position to be able to pull the engine right now. I started googling pitting on deck and some ppl mentioned the copper spray and that generally speaking it should be okay. Fwiw I’ve had good compression and leak down numbers and have hadreally good power right up until head removal.




After further reading, a lot of ppl have discussed the Allen key being used on the studs to make sure they bottom out, and then backing them out a bit and finishing them hand tight. I think some of the confusion is that ppl are thinking hand tight means you take an Allen key on the stud and tighten them by hand. I think bottoming out with the Allen key is cheap insurance before backing out and hand tightening to make sure you didn’t get stuck on anything. Something about air is a thing as well, bc of the lubricant, which might make the stud resist bottoming out by hand, hence the Allen key.

 

You and I are in the exact same stage of rebuilding. Silly question; where is your timing chain?

 

It’s off because the head is off. That gets removed with the cam sprocket before removing the head.

 

If you have compressed air, blow out all of the orifices. Place a rag over the area, air nozzle, go for it. It'll get most of the stuff. Even then, change your oil and filter after 100 miles or so, in case any material made it thru.
I've cleaned block/head surfaces using a corded drill with nylon brushes.
It's abrasive enough to get the gasket material up, but not abrasive enough to pit/mar the surfaces. Works well for any surface that gasket material that needs removing.

Copper spray can interfere with the headgasket material, since some gaskets have a vitron rubber coating.