R50/53 MAJOR ISSUE ! no codes.. STALLS WHEN WARM. HELP
MAJOR ISSUE ! no codes.. STALLS WHEN WARM. HELP
This is a continuation of another post..
my issue is AS SOON as my car reaches operating temperature it stalls out and won't run or restart until fully cooled down. When it reaches about 170'F my afr gauge begins to go progressively more lean until it pegs full lean around 200'F and once my cooling fans cycle 1x or 2x it stalls.
it throw no codes and inpa appears to show everything fine so I'm at a loss. I will list all my parts I've since tried swapping on or replacing with NEW parts.
fuelpump , front 02 sensor , crank sensor , cam sensor , tmap in intake Manifold, coilpack , throttlebody. I've tried resetting adoptions , smoke tested for vacuum leaks , inspected timing chain and guides along with cam lobes ect. I've also inspected all my wiring to sensors and found a few frayed wires or cracked and replaced every single one and harnesses. I inspected the inside of my ecu and didn't see any melted pots or smell anything burnt ect. Inspected all my fuel lines. My fuel filter is also only 3x months old. I dropped some oil and removed my oil filter and found absolutely NOTHING but oil. I've inspected my ground wires and even replaced them not too long ago...
HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP !!!!!!!!!!! What do I look for next or try ? I've never in my LIFE not been able to get a car running. Noneless one I've put together and owned for 4x years..
videos shows it running then syalling and shows my gauges and inpa durring.
https://youtu.be/nyzUwiKbNi4
https://youtu.be/9RGiILovQlI
my issue is AS SOON as my car reaches operating temperature it stalls out and won't run or restart until fully cooled down. When it reaches about 170'F my afr gauge begins to go progressively more lean until it pegs full lean around 200'F and once my cooling fans cycle 1x or 2x it stalls.
it throw no codes and inpa appears to show everything fine so I'm at a loss. I will list all my parts I've since tried swapping on or replacing with NEW parts.
fuelpump , front 02 sensor , crank sensor , cam sensor , tmap in intake Manifold, coilpack , throttlebody. I've tried resetting adoptions , smoke tested for vacuum leaks , inspected timing chain and guides along with cam lobes ect. I've also inspected all my wiring to sensors and found a few frayed wires or cracked and replaced every single one and harnesses. I inspected the inside of my ecu and didn't see any melted pots or smell anything burnt ect. Inspected all my fuel lines. My fuel filter is also only 3x months old. I dropped some oil and removed my oil filter and found absolutely NOTHING but oil. I've inspected my ground wires and even replaced them not too long ago...
HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP !!!!!!!!!!! What do I look for next or try ? I've never in my LIFE not been able to get a car running. Noneless one I've put together and owned for 4x years..
videos shows it running then syalling and shows my gauges and inpa durring.
https://youtu.be/nyzUwiKbNi4
https://youtu.be/9RGiILovQlI
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Sep 13, 2022 at 05:50 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,358
Likes: 752
From: DFW, TX
Since you're leaning out at the moment of stall, I would put my money on fuel starvation. Given all your mods, have you also installed a higher volume fuel pump? BTW, idling a MINI is problematic where temps are concerned. Even the owner's manual says not to do it for an extended period of time. I don't have half the mods you do and mine overheats in a slow fast food drive-thru line.
Since you're leaning out at the moment of stall, I would put my money on fuel starvation. Given all your mods, have you also installed a higher volume fuel pump? BTW, idling a MINI is problematic where temps are concerned. Even the owner's manual says not to do it for an extended period of time. I don't have half the mods you do and mine overheats in a slow fast food drive-thru line.
my iats even with hood shut everything never go above 110'F in my garage while it's been stalling and i dont habe any fans blowing on it or anything.
I can't imagine fuel starvation if it ran with the mods it has for about a year now and they say our fuelpumps will supply a 400hp turbo mini so I'm far from that but read below I made a little progress..
if it starts fuel starving , WHY ? it never used to and it only happens when it warms up ? When cold I could drive it like a bat outta Heck and itle rev perfectly fine , build boost well and afrs are spot on.. also both fuelpumps have the same problem but do you think maybe the filter could have a bad oring or something causing this issue ? I did change the filter a few months back.
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Sep 13, 2022 at 07:29 PM.
My front 02 was 2x months old and I cleaned it about 1x week befor all this started in prep for mtly retune to dial in my meth system..
anyways today after the new fuelpump and new tmap I pulled my front 02 and it was BLACK , so i put in a new off brand 02 sensor i had on hand and reset everything and restarted the car..
it held idle perfect as well as iat for almost 20min , 5x longer than befor. But then i seen it go full lean again according to my afr gauge so maybe thats gone bad ( will replace it with new one 2morrow and check) but the car never stalled..it also didn't throw a cel code again or anything so I shut it down and restarted it and it restarted and idled each time 4x no issues ,even afr were spot on and fan was cycling as my temps were getting upto 210'F when it kicks on and drops back down to 180'F..
so tomorrow i think ille start by swapping in my new wideband to 2x check that it reading accurately as well as a new rear 02 sensor also..
hoping the issue was a weak fuelpump then got a contaminated front 02 sensor but it sounds too good to be true.
I can say for sure thus new fuel pump when priming is MUCH louder and stronger sounding than my other one.
I also have a high-flow fuelpump coming i will be attempting to swap into my old pump housing and hopefully then run that as ille know for certain fueling isn't an issue.
heres my mods btw. To give more insight into it.
tpr2 head , ns1 cam , nology hotwire sparkplug wires , ngk step cold plugs , sprintex sc (20psi) , grs motorsport ic with ic sprayers and upgradedboots , fully ported sneedspeed Manifold , obx 421 headers with ported flange and catless mid pipe , Detroit tuned bypass valve , ported stock throttlebody , real cai and velocity stack , 2% lightweight crank , 550cc bosch injectors , ported ic horn , 180Degree Thermostat , mishimoto rad and upgraded hoses and tuned by the remote tune MASTER adriancl. I also have a stage 2x snow methanol kit with a #1 nozzle BUT I have it turned off until retune.
speaking of tune , is there ANY possible way some how my tune may how gotten corrupted ? I could always pull it out and reload it to try , I wonder if I should try that ????
anyways today after the new fuelpump and new tmap I pulled my front 02 and it was BLACK , so i put in a new off brand 02 sensor i had on hand and reset everything and restarted the car..
it held idle perfect as well as iat for almost 20min , 5x longer than befor. But then i seen it go full lean again according to my afr gauge so maybe thats gone bad ( will replace it with new one 2morrow and check) but the car never stalled..it also didn't throw a cel code again or anything so I shut it down and restarted it and it restarted and idled each time 4x no issues ,even afr were spot on and fan was cycling as my temps were getting upto 210'F when it kicks on and drops back down to 180'F..
so tomorrow i think ille start by swapping in my new wideband to 2x check that it reading accurately as well as a new rear 02 sensor also..
hoping the issue was a weak fuelpump then got a contaminated front 02 sensor but it sounds too good to be true.
I can say for sure thus new fuel pump when priming is MUCH louder and stronger sounding than my other one.
I also have a high-flow fuelpump coming i will be attempting to swap into my old pump housing and hopefully then run that as ille know for certain fueling isn't an issue.
heres my mods btw. To give more insight into it.
tpr2 head , ns1 cam , nology hotwire sparkplug wires , ngk step cold plugs , sprintex sc (20psi) , grs motorsport ic with ic sprayers and upgradedboots , fully ported sneedspeed Manifold , obx 421 headers with ported flange and catless mid pipe , Detroit tuned bypass valve , ported stock throttlebody , real cai and velocity stack , 2% lightweight crank , 550cc bosch injectors , ported ic horn , 180Degree Thermostat , mishimoto rad and upgraded hoses and tuned by the remote tune MASTER adriancl. I also have a stage 2x snow methanol kit with a #1 nozzle BUT I have it turned off until retune.
speaking of tune , is there ANY possible way some how my tune may how gotten corrupted ? I could always pull it out and reload it to try , I wonder if I should try that ????
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Sep 13, 2022 at 09:08 PM.
I am not an expert, but here are some things to think about.
It was working fine and now it is not. That’s important.
Lean means too much air, or not enough fuel. Too much air means more air than it is measuring. Will the car read out the long term and short term fuel trims when you use a scan tool? Can you drive it and have a friend read what the long and short term values are? That’s one piece of data.
But, the first thing I’d look at is air. Is the car getting too much air? A torn boot or if the Detroit tuned valve isn’t working or some other air-related error could do this. For instance, perhaps if the Detroit valve stays closed, you will always get boosted air, even when you don’t want. You can press on it when the engine is off to feel if it actuates/moves. Listen for any hissing from anyplace. Easy things like that for starters.
I wish you good luck.
It was working fine and now it is not. That’s important.
Lean means too much air, or not enough fuel. Too much air means more air than it is measuring. Will the car read out the long term and short term fuel trims when you use a scan tool? Can you drive it and have a friend read what the long and short term values are? That’s one piece of data.
But, the first thing I’d look at is air. Is the car getting too much air? A torn boot or if the Detroit tuned valve isn’t working or some other air-related error could do this. For instance, perhaps if the Detroit valve stays closed, you will always get boosted air, even when you don’t want. You can press on it when the engine is off to feel if it actuates/moves. Listen for any hissing from anyplace. Easy things like that for starters.
I wish you good luck.
I have all my heatshields in place plus extra shielding ect like m7 heatshield and boxed in intake ect...
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Omg ! It's running and running stronger than it EVER has.
everything is spot on too..
I replaced rear 02 today , map sensor and wideband.. then i reset everything , pulled out the tune and reinstalled the tune.
then I let it start to warm up and it got to about 160 and I said F it , I'm gonna wash it real quick so I took it down the block to my hose and it drove perfect to it. So after i washed it I was going to just drive it around the block and keep and eye on the parameters and see if I could knowtice anything and after 20min of circling it continued to run perfect. So I called my wife and said be ready to pick me up just encase and I headed out to faster roads.
I took it all over , city traffic , highway and freeway and it performed like it never has befor. I couldn't belive it !
so then I brought it home and wgen I pulled into my garage let it idle 15min and it was perfect..
Then I went out to my car again 2hr later abd took it for another 1hr long 50mile test drive and all was perfect...
I wonder if the failing fuelpump ruined my front 02 sensor and caused the issues and I wonder if after I'd replaced all I did and did all the resets if it HAD to be driven and drive cycles completed correctly not just started and idled with no throttle input really so it just didn't know what to do or what was going on..
OR my ecu is in and out and this problem will come again..so to be safe it's time to move to a face-lift ecu and tune in my meth...
thx for the help and tips guys...
Always very much appreciated
everything is spot on too..
I replaced rear 02 today , map sensor and wideband.. then i reset everything , pulled out the tune and reinstalled the tune.
then I let it start to warm up and it got to about 160 and I said F it , I'm gonna wash it real quick so I took it down the block to my hose and it drove perfect to it. So after i washed it I was going to just drive it around the block and keep and eye on the parameters and see if I could knowtice anything and after 20min of circling it continued to run perfect. So I called my wife and said be ready to pick me up just encase and I headed out to faster roads.
I took it all over , city traffic , highway and freeway and it performed like it never has befor. I couldn't belive it !
so then I brought it home and wgen I pulled into my garage let it idle 15min and it was perfect..
Then I went out to my car again 2hr later abd took it for another 1hr long 50mile test drive and all was perfect...
I wonder if the failing fuelpump ruined my front 02 sensor and caused the issues and I wonder if after I'd replaced all I did and did all the resets if it HAD to be driven and drive cycles completed correctly not just started and idled with no throttle input really so it just didn't know what to do or what was going on..
OR my ecu is in and out and this problem will come again..so to be safe it's time to move to a face-lift ecu and tune in my meth...
thx for the help and tips guys...
Always very much appreciated
I am not an expert, but here are some things to think about.
It was working fine and now it is not. That’s important.
Lean means too much air, or not enough fuel. Too much air means more air than it is measuring. Will the car read out the long term and short term fuel trims when you use a scan tool? Can you drive it and have a friend read what the long and short term values are? That’s one piece of data.
But, the first thing I’d look at is air. Is the car getting too much air? A torn boot or if the Detroit tuned valve isn’t working or some other air-related error could do this. For instance, perhaps if the Detroit valve stays closed, you will always get boosted air, even when you don’t want. You can press on it when the engine is off to feel if it actuates/moves. Listen for any hissing from anyplace. Easy things like that for starters.
I wish you good luck.
It was working fine and now it is not. That’s important.
Lean means too much air, or not enough fuel. Too much air means more air than it is measuring. Will the car read out the long term and short term fuel trims when you use a scan tool? Can you drive it and have a friend read what the long and short term values are? That’s one piece of data.
But, the first thing I’d look at is air. Is the car getting too much air? A torn boot or if the Detroit tuned valve isn’t working or some other air-related error could do this. For instance, perhaps if the Detroit valve stays closed, you will always get boosted air, even when you don’t want. You can press on it when the engine is off to feel if it actuates/moves. Listen for any hissing from anyplace. Easy things like that for starters.
I wish you good luck.
and why would it run perfect but all a sudden go full lean and stall and not run ? Youd think the issue would be present as soon as the car was started or once it was under boost..
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Sep 15, 2022 at 01:06 PM.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 36
From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan
smoke test?
__________________
vacuum leak test or what ever it's called.. lol pardon my ignorant wording.... i used a pump to pump on smoke to check..
[QUOTE=The Devil Z;4633184]I am a legit expert on the r53
Deleting this part of the thread as it got personal and off topic.
Deleting this part of the thread as it got personal and off topic.
Last edited by 2017All4; Sep 20, 2022 at 05:10 PM. Reason: Personal/off topic
