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I'm refreshing the suspension on my 2006 JCW, which has the factory JCW shocks and springs and factory (non-adjustable) rear control arms. I'll be re-using the JCW springs and replacing the old (Delphi?) JCW shocks with Bilsteins.
I'm not sure what to do about the rear control arms: presumably I don't need adjustable arms, since I won't be lowering? Is there any value in having the adjustable arms when not lowering? I wonder if it would allow for a more accurate alignment, particularly in an older (111K mile) chassis.
Even without lowering, it depends on what you’re trying to achieve. A 2006 has some camber adjustment from stock that pre-facelift cars don’t have. If you’re trying to get to factory specs and your car or suspension isn’t bent, you should be able to get there with stock arms. If you’re looking for more camber than the factory eccentric bolts can provide, you’ll need adjustable arms.
When getting the alignment make sure the tech is familiar with MINI’s because a lot of them will tell you the camber can’t be adjusted.
Also, the Factory JCW’s still had regular S suspensions. The JCW suspension kit with red lowering springs and a JCW struts was only offered as a dealer accessory, except on the GP. They did have the JCW brakes and an LSD though.
I'm refreshing the suspension on my 2006 JCW, which has the factory JCW shocks and springs and factory (non-adjustable) rear control arms. I'll be re-using the JCW springs and replacing the old (Delphi?) JCW shocks with Bilsteins.
I'm not sure what to do about the rear control arms: presumably I don't need adjustable arms, since I won't be lowering? Is there any value in having the adjustable arms when not lowering? I wonder if it would allow for a more accurate alignment, particularly in an older (111K mile) chassis.
Thanks!
Maybe there's some slight weight benefits; if the arms have pillowball joints instead of rubber bushings, there's some feedback improvements at the expense of NVH. I'm working on the rear of mine now and there's lots of rust back there so if you went w/al. arms like the ones below, there's some extra corrosion resistance. Unlike the subframe, the mini arms appear to have some corrosion resistant plating so they don't look too bad.
Maybe there's some slight weight benefits; if the arms have pillowball joints instead of rubber bushings, there's some feedback improvements at the expense of NVH. I'm working on the rear of mine now and there's lots of rust back there so if you went w/al. arms like the ones below, there's some extra corrosion resistance. Unlike the subframe, the mini arms appear to have some corrosion resistant plating so they don't look too bad.
I have/bought/installed those same rear adjustable control arms on my pre-facelift '04 R53.
I like them.
My Mini is not lowered and drove fine. My original OEM (@86k) were in perfect condition and really didn't need replacing. However, It seemed that the Left/driver rear wheel camber was slightly more negative than the Right.
After replacing/upgrading all 4 struts/shocks, SB links and bushings; The LR camber was still noticeably negative. I'm glad I had purchased these adjustables months before and was able to get my camber/alignment sorted out.
BTW: I have absolutely 0 rust on my car but the biggest PIA is unbolting the upper control arm nuts. There is almost no space to get a socket or spanner in there. I used a swivel joint. It was pretty frustrating but once the angle was figured out the second one was easier.
I have/bought/installed those same rear adjustable control arms on my pre-facelift '04 R53.
I like them.
My Mini is not lowered and drove fine. My original OEM (@86k) were in perfect condition and really didn't need replacing. However, It seemed that the Left/driver rear wheel camber was slightly more negative than the Right.
After replacing/upgrading all 4 struts/shocks, SB links and bushings; The LR camber was still noticeably negative. I'm glad I had purchased these adjustables months before and was able to get my camber/alignment sorted out.
BTW: I have absolutely 0 rust on my car but the biggest PIA is unbolting the upper control arm nuts. There is almost no space to get a socket or spanner in there. I used a swivel joint. It was pretty frustrating but once the angle was figured out the second one was easier.
I'm in the rust belt so YMMV. I gotta ask, were the bushes in those alloy arms rubber or pillowball? I can't quite tell from the pictures. Mine's a street car so don't really want pillow ball joints.
I'm in the rust belt so YMMV. I gotta ask, were the bushes in those alloy arms rubber or pillowball? I can't quite tell from the pictures. Mine's a street car so don't really want pillow ball joints.
I'll be completely honest with you - I don't know. They are Dorman brand.
Nothing was mentioned about the bushing; whether Pillow ball or Rubber, on the Amazon listing.
Although, I can tell you that the rubber was impressively hard and fixed. They don't pivot or "roll". I suspect they are solid Rubber. I compared them to my (18yr/o), OEM and the bushings appeared to be of the same type/construction.
After torquing down the upper before mounting the lower, (perhaps a bad idea...?), to the wheel - It took a tremendous amount of effort to pull the control arm into alignment to the wheel. It can be one tough monkey.
I went back - loosened up the upper, bolted the lower, then went back and torqued to specs (80ft lbs).
I love my ebay adjustable rear control arms..I ran them with stock suspension and now my coilovers and when I had an alignment done they did end up adjusting them to get my car better planted for cornering..I highly highly suggest getting them..
I have/bought/installed those same rear adjustable control arms on my pre-facelift '04 R53.
I like them.
My Mini is not lowered and drove fine. My original OEM (@86k) were in perfect condition and really didn't need replacing. However, It seemed that the Left/driver rear wheel camber was slightly more negative than the Right.
After replacing/upgrading all 4 struts/shocks, SB links and bushings; The LR camber was still noticeably negative. I'm glad I had purchased these adjustables months before and was able to get my camber/alignment sorted out.
BTW: I have absolutely 0 rust on my car but the biggest PIA is unbolting the upper control arm nuts. There is almost no space to get a socket or spanner in there. I used a swivel joint. It was pretty frustrating but once the angle was figured out the second one was easier.
edit: cancelled order, doorman has correct image for these and they're just OEM
Last edited by mini_me123; May 31, 2022 at 02:28 PM.
edit: cancelled order, doorman has correct image for these and they're just OEM
EDIT: Hold on!!! - The link I posted below now indicates NON ADJUSTABLE but clearly shows the adjustable arm that I ordered almost a year ago.
The correct Dorman RAC product # I received is
(a little more $$ than your link).
They are not stamped "steel". They are listed as Aluminum and are surprisingly light weight.
Hoping you receive what you want. I think they are well worth the price be it steel or otherwise
Last edited by Here2Go; May 31, 2022 at 03:18 PM.
Reason: added link
EDIT: Hold on!!! - The link I posted below now indicates NON ADJUSTABLE but clearly shows the adjustable arm that I ordered almost a year ago
Sorry.
Originally posted:
I ordered my pair of Dorman off Amazon (a little more $$ than your link).
They are not stamped "steel". They are listed as Aluminum and are surprisingly light weight.
Hoping you receive what you want. I think they are well worth the price be it steel or otherwise
Can you confirm through your orders? the 980 is stamped steel allegedly. The 979 (link below) is adjustable steel. This is the official doorman amazon store so it's frustrating that they have the wrong image. Their website shows stamped steel for the 980 but adjustable for the 979 (link also below). They also have the alloy models but I can't find a bargain for those.
Can you confirm through your orders? the 980 is stamped steel allegedly. The 979 (link below) is adjustable steel. This is the official doorman amazon store so it's frustrating that they have the wrong image. Their website shows stamped steel for the 980 but adjustable for the 979 (link also below)
Yeah you are correct. They are truly messed up!
See my edited reply above your/this post. I was scrambling to link you to the right product just to discover what you already went through.
However; Here is the link (Amazon) to the CORRECT product I ordered and received #522-058
....Although, unfortunately it is currently unavailable:
I can double confirm as I put these on my kid's car back in 2017. They work fine and for a street car, they are totally fine.
It does, however, as pointed out earlier to be out of stock on Amazon and everywhere else. Might want to look for some other options out there if you need them now.
