I need to consult a proctologist for my '04 R53. I suspect the clunking is a result of worn trailing arm bushings. I would love to replace them with Powerflex but I don't have the proper environment to do so.
Due to this situation; Would it be ok/advised to just replace the trailing arm bushing / bracket assembly from WMW for now? I will also be installing new Ebach style adjustable control arms and will obviously need an alignment.
Although, I don't have my Bentley manual at hand...I referenced ModMini's video tutorial. Was just wondering if this was the simplest fix for my condition and/or if I'm missing the broader scope of work involved?

 

I just did a complete swap on my rear end last week on my R50 to R56 control arm an new upper an lower control arms along with new swaybar an links. Took me about 3 hours to complete everything. Not a very difficult job.

 

Did you go the Powerflex insert route or preformed the pre-assembled bracket replacement?

 

I used the powerflex outside inserts. They go between the arm an flat washer when bolting trailing arm the mount.
On clunking check your drop links to see if they are bad.

 

Thanks @shrevemini for bringing up the drop links.
Lifted the Mini up and checked for any play in the control arms (w/prybar) = Firm, no horizontal/vertical play, no noise
Checked the Struts = (2yrs old) for looseness and worn bushing, = All good & tight.
Checked the Drop links and swaybar bushings (86k) = Seemed a little worn - Drop links felt a bit "loose" & sloppy.
Gave the Swaybar bushings and Drop links a smile....It is definitely the easiest fix in a parking lot environment.
Noise from the swaybar or drop links never entered my mind. Thanks again for the insight!

 

I had a cluncking on my r50. I powerflexed the shock absorber top mounts and used the powerflex trailing arm bush inserts as well, clunking gone

I don't hdon't anti roll bar on the back so less to check

 

The short version:
I'm really wanting to do everything - PowerfFex trailing arm bushings etc. However, I now live in an apartment.
The "clunking" is more of a soft clunking rattle while riding over speed humps and uneven, horribly patched roads at low speed. The car drives absolutely quiet and straight at hwy speed. Going to try doing the swaybar and drop links first while I try to figure out the logistics for the PowerFlex dilemma.
The long version:
I had a house for 25 years w/a 4 car garage (1,100sqft), in-which I ran my custom fab studio until I moved. Currently, the leasing manager and I have a great rapport. I am obsessively neat and organized so he doesn't mind me working on my Mini. Unfortunately; In order to R&R the trailing arm bushing would require a 300+ ft extension cord (for my saws-all), from my apt to parking lot.
I had my wicked next door neighbor complain and reported me about making noise when I jigsawed a piece of 1" x 4" on my patio (literally 3 min cutting), So there's no way I can remove the carrier to do the R&R in my apt.

Ok - Perhaps a bit off topic.... but that's the skinny of it.

 

Heck I did my clutch in my apartment parking lot. Along with my 100k service.

 

@shreveminiYikes! - That's a little more than what am up for. I applaud your fortitude!
Like I said though; the manager has no problem with me working on my Mini. Complaints are a whole other issue.

 

HA , I recognize that toolbox set..lol things best purchase next to my 1400ftlb milwaukee fuel impact. Those 2x things have torn my car up and down countless times..though I too am looking into finding helper for my lsd and clutch job.

 

That portable tool set has save my *** a few times. You can do the clutch by yourself. Just get a engine brace from Harbor freight. Also get a couple ratchet straps. An it does not hurt to have a trans jack from harbor freight as well. Did not take to long to do. My install was delayed do too a clutch fork issue. Had to order a new one.

 

I'm still learning a lot about my Mini, but I thought you had to take like half of the front end apart to drop the transmission? Maybe I misunderstood something?

 

This is very indicative of drop link problems. I have aftermarket rod end style end links and even slight wear in them and I get a clunk over speed bumps/uneven roads at slow speeds.

Good luck.

 

Well you need to drop the subframe. I removed mine from the bottom. I watched modmini on YouTube an it worked with zero issues. I did not have no help. I enjoyed doing it to be honest.

 

I done the 6 speed conversion on the driveway on my own lol, while the front end was off had a new alternator, water pump, pipework and everything else my bank would let me buy lol

If you want to use polybush inserts on the back all you really need is shallow sockets, a jack and an axle stand. Really simple job to do really, done mine a week or so ago

 

Would love to do a 6 speed conversion.

 

Perhaps I've been misinformed or missing something. Tools are not an issue. Doesn't swapping out the trailing arm bushings w/ PowerFlex bushing require cutting out the old with a saws-all or torch heating (I have those tools), like the front?
I could have sworn I came across a specific, step by step video R&R-ing rear trailing arm bushings many months ago. Funny- I now can't seem to find it

 

OK - Paying closer attention to what was stated by @shrevemini & @AcidK1 =Powerflex inserts = INSERTS being the operative word. Powerflex Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Inserts.
Inserts; I can do. Without getting any noise complaints from the other tenants.
Notwithstanding; I was confused between the full Powerflex press in replacement rear trailing arm bushings. Which is a much different task than the inserts "shreve" and "acid" mentioned doing.

Thanks guys.

 

I've got the Powerflex rear trailing arm inserts + rear sway bar bushings in my cart...
I'm also considering(?) Godspeed adjustable sway bar drop links.
Question: Are the front & rear sway bar end/drop links the same (interchangeable) on a Mini? Or are the rears different?
Thanks.

 

Different I’m pretty sure

but be sure: realoem.com

 

I looked on realoem and compared pics of front and rear. They appeared different.
Looking at adjustable end links got me thinking/confused. Given the turnbuckle adjustment led me to speculate whether the ends could be rotated to suit the front sway bar as well (?).
I think the front links are longer than the rear(?). Never measured. Don't really recall.

 

The threads on the front drop links go opposite ways to each other, the rear both face the same way I think. I thought adjustable drop links were only required on lowered cars but not sure.

Yes, inserts sit between the trailing arm and original bush, no pressing or swearing required

 

Wow how strange is it my wife told be about the same issue. I said then go to the GYM. 😂

 

Yes. I had lowered the Mini for awhile. Loved the look. Currently, reverted back to the stock ride height (springs & struts/shocks), until I can get the remaining Koni yellow adjustable's as recommended by the good folks here on NAM.
The adjustable end links gave me pause, knowing that I will want to go back to lowering again in the near future. looking forward to installing the Powerflex inserts too.
I'm also prepared to lower again doing the "slam sandwich" = Cravenspeed indurators + M7 top reinforcement plates, on the upper strut mounts. Which are currently in place/installed.

20 years ago; I believe the proper term was referred to as "ba donk a donk". I'm surprised you weren't beaten with a wet noodle to even suggest that to your wife! ...

 

Adjustable end links help with preload on the sway bar. Not required for lowering.