R50/53 Inspection ready ECU?
Inspection ready ECU?
Hi, folks. I recently had an issue with my MC40 misfiring. I was running remanufactured Audi TT 380cc injectors (plug & play according to my tuner) so I switched back to my previous Volvo 380cc injectors with AV1/AV6 adapters and cleared the misfire OBD II codes. The car is running perfectly now but for some reason the ECU will not reset. I've driven it multiple times, at different speeds and different lengths of time yet the OBD II is still indicating that it's not ready for inspection (confirmed by a state inspection site). Has anyone else dealt with this issue in the past and, if so, how did you resolve it? My inspection expires March 31 and I would really like to get this fixed prior to getting a ticket from our buddies in blue. Anyone?
The car is running amazingly well right now after I swapped the injectors and zapped the misfire codes. There are no codes showing. I use the OBD Fusion Bluetooth adapter (for iPhone) and it's telling me that it's not ready for emissions testing (same thing the state inspection site told me). Showing "available" on the app are the Fuel System, Components, Catalyst, and Oxygen Sensor. Showing "unavailable" are the Heated Catalyst, Evap System, Secondary Air System, Oxygen Sensor Heater and EGR System. It's been my experience that it only takes 40 or so miles of driving for the ECU to reset and allow an inspection. However, I've driven it at least a 100 miles with no success. Any ideas?
this is the bmw drive cycle I believe mini is close if not the same
1. Cold Start
In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50ºC (122ºF) and within 6ºC (11ºF) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on maximum and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate
Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate
Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate
This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
1. Cold Start
In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50ºC (122ºF) and within 6ºC (11ºF) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on maximum and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate
Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate
Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate
This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
The car is running amazingly well right now after I swapped the injectors and zapped the misfire codes. There are no codes showing. I use the OBD Fusion Bluetooth adapter (for iPhone) and it's telling me that it's not ready for emissions testing (same thing the state inspection site told me). Showing "available" on the app are the Fuel System, Components, Catalyst, and Oxygen Sensor. Showing "unavailable" are the Heated Catalyst, Evap System, Secondary Air System, Oxygen Sensor Heater and EGR System. It's been my experience that it only takes 40 or so miles of driving for the ECU to reset and allow an inspection. However, I've driven it at least a 100 miles with no success. Any ideas?
Does Texas require all applicable parameters to be ready? Some states allow 1 or 2 to be incomplete depending on the parameter.
That BMW drive cycle is ridiculous but at this point I'm willing to try anything to get it reset and ready for inspection. I don't believe Texas requires all parameters to be ready but I'm also unsure which it specifically requires. Thanks for everyone's help.
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So does my OBD Fusion app. Unfortunately, no amount of driving has reset the ECU to enable an inspection. When I had the car tuned I switched to a post-facelift ECU (my 2004 was pre-) on a suggestion by Adrian Nastase who performed the tune and claimed better mapping/tuning capabilities for the newer unit. Adrian is telling me that shouldn't be the problem but now it has me curious since the state inspection site is telling me that their equipment is showing tests as N/S, rather than N/A (not available) and they've never seen the N/S designation. They're as baffled as I am. Next step is to switch back to the original ECU and see if that allows the inspection. I'll report back on the results. I can switch back to the tuned post-facelift ECU after the inspection.
I'm curious what all is involved with changing the ECU. Is it as simple as just swapping out the module that's next to the air filter? or did you have to do more? Did you just buy a used ECU and have Adrian tune it? that might be a cool way to have 2 tune options.
I'm not familiar with the fusion app, is it able to clear codes? I would see if a different scanner, even something like the creator C310+ might be what you need to get it to behave itself.
I'm not familiar with the fusion app, is it able to clear codes? I would see if a different scanner, even something like the creator C310+ might be what you need to get it to behave itself.
Can you please post a screenshot of what the app is showing you mine tells me exactly which part of it is not ready
Ask for swapping out the ECU I'm able to do it I'm able to bypass all the immobilizer stuff I sell them for about 350 to 400 I have a guy in Europe named adrian that I use to redo the VIN And it depends on how much I can get a used ECU for
Ask for swapping out the ECU I'm able to do it I'm able to bypass all the immobilizer stuff I sell them for about 350 to 400 I have a guy in Europe named adrian that I use to redo the VIN And it depends on how much I can get a used ECU for
Last edited by MrBlah; Apr 1, 2021 at 02:59 PM.
OBD II images
Here is what my OBD Fusion phone app is showing. Adrian provided me with a post-facelift MS5150 ECU with tune embedded and that's what it's reading. I took it back to the state inspection station today to see if there had been any changes to the readings just in case my app was working improperly -- it wasn't as you can see. Oddly, their scanner was indicating systems were "N/S" (?), not "N/A" (not available). They had never seen an N/S designation so they were flummoxed. This afternoon I removed the MS5150 ECU and reinstalled the original pre-facelift ECU thinking that I could get the inspection then swap the ECUs out afterward. My Mini started ever so briefly twice (for a second) then died. It now won't start at all -- cranks but won't start. Strangely, my phone app is now showing it ready for emissions testing with the original ECU. The only mechanical change made between ECUs was the installation of 380cc injectors which might make the Mini run rich with the old ECU but shouldn't prevent it from starting. I now have a Mini that won't pass inspection with one ECU and won't start with the other. None of this makes sense to me and I'm a better than average mechanic. I'm totally open to any ideas anyone might have on how to solve this dilemma.
Last edited by cooper48; Apr 1, 2021 at 05:49 PM.
Racingguy04, disconnect the battery, pull one ECU, plug in the other. It's a simple process but your ECU has to be programmed to your VIN for your keys/locks, etc. to work. That's what MrBlah is detailing above. Adrian Nastase is the tuner who provided me with the tuned MS5150 ECU (post-facelift). I sent him a PM explaining my problem and he doesn't believe his tune is the problem. However, as you can see above, my original ECU is telling me it's now ready for inspection so there has to be some correlation to the newer ECU. Still talking to Adrian to try and solve the problem.
Exactly. That's the problem. State site is seeing the same thing and can't inspect it. I'll swap the MS5150 ECU back into the Mini tomorrow and, hopefully, it will start but that doesn't solve my problem. It still doesn't make sense to me that it won't start with the original ECU.
It started briefly yesterday after reinstallation of the original ECU so I don't believe it's the immobilizer unless that allows a start and then immediately causes the engine to stop. I reinstalled the upgraded ECU/tune back in the MIni this morning and of course it started right up. I absolutely love the way it runs with this ECU/tune but it's preventing me from getting a state inspection which is a HUGE problem. Adrian sourced the post-facelift ECU and sent it to me with tune imbedded. Since he lives in Romania the ECU most likely came from a European Mini. Could that be the cause of the N/S code reading at the state inspection site (rather than N/A)? Who knows? Still communicating with Adrian for a possible solution.
No, I sourced the ECU/tune directly from Adrian a year ago. The performance increase was truly amazing. But, this is the first time I've attempted a state inspection after the installation. There is obviously some incongruity between the ECU and the American systems being used for emissions testing. Country code - maybe? I'm now communicating with a service tech in the UK to see if the N/S designation is used there during the MOT process.
Update -- After viewing the Texas state emissions testing information online I found this: "If any of the non-continuous monitors say N/A (Not Available) or N/S (Not Supported), then there is no monitor for that system."
The "not ready" designations are the crucial information. I also have the failing report from the state inspection site so all the information is in hand. I uploaded the ECU and sent it to Adrian who changed the country code and sent it back. Haven't had time to download it yet but will do that tomorrow and see if it makes a difference. I honestly don't believe it will but one step at a time. I'm curious to know if there's anyone else out there with an Adrian tune that has had an issue with a state inspection failure.








