Thanks again. Steering back towards the Bilsteins now. Still confused by the HD/B6 vs. Sport/B8 naming. It seems like they are all one product now? At least I can't find a store selling both B6 and B8 products. Turner Motorsport sells a Bilstein "Sport" strut, with a part number equivalent to what ECS tuning calls the "B6 HD":

Turner: Bilstein Left Front Sport strut (VE3-A323 / 35-103233)
ECS:B6 HD Strut Assembly Front - Left (Mfg Part 35-103233)

 

From the Bilstein website, looks like they only make the B6 for the R53 platform.
https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/produ...62319444833688

Compared with the B6 and B8 availability for the R56 platform:
https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/produ...45346165298076

It might be due to the already short suspension travel of the R53 chassis that they do not offer B8s for that platform.

I would still not hesitate to get a set of the Bilstein B6 as replacements.

 

+1 to the above...

B6 - Yes...
Not sure why there is not B8s for the R53. Except for the cone thing on the bottom of the rear shocks, the shocks are physically interchangeable between the R53 and R56. No difference in stroke length. Way motors even sells the cone things separately so R53 rear shocks could be used on the R56.

 

For the Gen 1 MINI no B8s, just whats below. You would need remove the cone for them to work on the R53 from the R56. I would go for the b6's

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein-parts/v-mini-2005/

 

So could a set of r56 B8s be used on an R53?

i understand the issue with the rear trailing arm interface, but otherwise?


I’d think the r53 Bilstein pro kit would be using B8s, based on the fact that it is lowered.

 

I don’t know if there is any difference in valving, but physically, they will fit except for the conical part on the rear shock. As for valving, I would think it is similar given how similar the cars are and given that people put R53 shocks on the R56. But that is a guess...

Can you post a link to these?
Above, ECS and others said Bilstein doesn’t make a set of B8s for an R53, so it would not be clear how this could be. Maybe a different shock? Or it is the B6? People put lowering springs on the Stock MINI shocks and they are not “lowering” shocks. But they also talk about cutting the upper bumper stop. Maybe to compensate for the reduced travel?

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein...46-180452~bil/

I'm sure it is just B6 dampers.

 

Yup - the pictures show the part number on a rear shock and, yes, it is the same as B6 listing ECS posted above.

 

I wonder what the logic is. I mean the B8s should just be a bushing change away (I’m a machinist, hard parts like this aren’t much of a concern to me). The curb weights of the Gen1 and Gen2 are pretty much identical. I’ve seen multiple posts where coilovers are interchangeable between the 2 except the front top mount. I’m so tempted to try a set of Gen2 B8s, but it’s an expensive gamble. There has to be a reason...

 

Actually you wouldn’t even need to machine the conical piece off. Just install the bottom “backwards”. As for the top mount in the front, that is separate from the shocks and you can reuse the R53 parts. As for pressing out the bushing, I would double check if it all bonded or not. If it is, that may be the only thing holding it on and you might not want to try that. If it is not, then maybe reuse the bushing from the R53?

Yes, expensive. But what is the risk? Physically they fit. So, maybe a slight difference in valving? But as you said the car weights are almost the same. So, how much different can the valving be. Maybe there is a slight difference in lengths. Don’t know. But I may have my old R56 shocks in the trash bin, if you want, and if I have them, I could measure them for you and you can see how yours match up to yours if you have stock shocks. PM me, if you want.

And looking for logic in the auto industry, if you find any let the rest of us know as we all have hit that brick wall at times...

 

Well, I don’t have to machine it off. I have a set of R56 arms that are going on (Cost me all of $17 at the junkyard. I’m a cheap bastard)... it would actually save me $50. Reading this thread earlier I came to the realization that I can easily and cheaply make my own adapters by hacksawing the ends off R56 shocks at the junkyard and facing it on my lathe, but wouldn’t need to with a set of the B8s, they’ll bolt right on... point taken about bonded bushings, flipping and changing bolts...

I’m aware of the top mount change, I’m considering the Ireland fixed top.



The only thing that I can think of that can be a problem is that the front bottoming out an inch further into the car makes something contact that isn’t supposed to... or that the perch height to knuckle length is different, which wouldn’t be an issue on a coilover.

I’m seriously considering this...

B8s paired with swifts? I’d kind of like something that sat lower... I know, I know...

 

Some great research going on here - thanks for confirming that the B12 kit by Bilstein incorporates the B6 dampers. My only doubt about the pairing of B6 dampers with JCW springs is now the McDonald's color scheme...

Trying to figure out exactly which other parts I should order, to go with the Bilstein bits. I think I will stick with the OEM front strut top mounts for now. The parts kits below look very handy, but it seems some of the parts are redundant, given the Bilsteins appear to come supplied with bump stops and dust covers? Shall I just order everything else?

 

The front B8s and I believe the B6s, are an inverted piston design and have internal bumper stops. They come with the dust bellows. The rears are conventional. Someone else will have to stay if the rears come with their own bumper stops, as I bought mine used and honestly don’t remember. The inverted piston design of the B8s is really nice and noticeably less flexible.

 

"Look for the golden suspension"

 

Are the strut tower defenders worth getting (the ones that sit on top of the sheet metal)? I have the classic "mushrooming", but not sure if they're worth it. There could be something therapeutic about bringing out the hammer and lumber as part of annual maintenance...

 

Have not had personal experience, but they are popular with the Gen I owners. You would want a set that full surrounds the opening. A suggestion would be to get a set with strut tower brace. It helps to cut down on general upfront body shaking.

I know you would prefer not to, but the IE fixed camberplates perform that function, but in a better way. That is by placing a steel plate under the top of the towel, which better supports the loads.

 

Thanks: I will take a deeper look into the IE plates. I had assumed they did not have rubber bushings and were therefore harsher than OEM, but it appears they in fact do have them.

I'm going to be doing balljoints and bushings while I'm in there. The lower control arm bushing is shot. I generally prefer OEM rubber bushings, but it seems like there is a consensus on doing Powerflex for at least the lower control arm bushing - would you agree? What about front and rear sway bars - Powerflex there too or OEM? Thank you.

 

The IE plates are made from a BMW upper mount. It is more “heavy duty” than the MINI part, but it still has dampening material in it similar to the MINI part. A bit firmer, with a bit of noise, but, really, a minor difference. Once you pull out of the driveway and make your second turn, you will be grinning so hard from ear to ear, you won’t hear a thing...

Definitely power flex for the lower control arm. I would stay with the MINI bushings for the swaybars unless you are putting in larger swaybar(s). While the power flex bushings on the swaybars would tighten up the roll stiffness a little, in a good way, if you did them front and rear, I found that the poly bushings can be a bit noisy, or become noisy over time. I think for canyon carving and the like, the stock will be fine. The time to replace the front ones is when you do the control arm bushings. Might consider doing the fronts just because you are in there already and, especially considering their age.

 

I have the IE fixed camber plates, had them for about 6 months. I don't notice any increased noise or changes in ride quality from stock. The handling improvement is noticeable, more front grip on turn in.

I put powerflex black (race) lower control arm bushings and front sway bar bushings on my car. I don't notice any increased noise, vibration, or harshness in the cabin, and the front end is nice and tight and the steering is nice and responsive. My car is 98% a daily driver that I occasionally get out for a track day or autocross. I've done everything I can to maximize the handling without compromising the comfort or utility of the car. I drive it to work every day, and can pick up my kid from school, but once I bolt on the slicks, swap out the brake pads, and hook up the brake ducts, the car is a beast on the track.

 

Thanks! Lots of food for thought. At the very least, I will get the Powerflex for the lower control arm.

What should I consider refreshing on the rear suspension, please? I currently have rear shocks and rear upper shock mounts in my cart. Will get rear swaybar bushings too. Not sure bout the trailing arm or control arm - are there rubber bushings available to press into these?

 

About your questions for the rear trailing and/or control arms, that I don’t know for sure. Hopefully someone does. This has been something I have been recently been considering, but have not found much especially with keeping it stock with just some poly bushings or the like...

 

Powerflex makes a training arm bushing insert to help stiffen up the OEM bushing. I wouldn’t mess with the rear control arms, as the bushings in those are pretty slim already. Maybe get a set of adjustable lower rear control arms for extra camber adjustment.

 

Something for the OP to consider. Might be worth it for my R56 as well.

Would these be worth it for a car running at stock height? MINI already has a bit of adjustment for camber that seems to be good for street use...

 

If you can get the camber you want from the stock adjustment, then not worth it. I would recommend the PowerFlex trailing arm inserts. They will help hold the toe setting when pushing hard, and keep the back end behavior predictable.

 

I had to go with adjustable lower control arms to get my stock suspension into the OEM camber spec, but I have a pre-facelift car with no adjustment built in to the rear camber, but I agree if you can get the camber into spec with the stock equipment, I would.

the other option is to replace the bushings with eccentric bushings to get enough adjustment that way.