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Awesome thread here!!! I can't remember the last time I studied every picture and read every word of a thread from start to finish. Keep up the good work and please keep updating this!
Awesome thread here!!! I can't remember the last time I studied every picture and read every word of a thread from start to finish. Keep up the good work and please keep updating this!
Thank you, sir. I just brought this home, will start tearing things down but waiting on a few parts so I can complete the job. This has to be the most expensive timing chain service ever...
Status update: Pulled the engine and started taking things apart. The intake manifold was a pain to get off, something was caked on 2 of the studs. Remember the strange piece I found when I replaced the starter? It was the throwout bearing, it disintegrated and messed up things pretty bad.
The housing was very dirty so I've been doing lots of cleaning. While everything is out, I took the chance to install a Quaif LSD...
I'm also replacing different parts that wear out, everything should last a long time. Replaced the power steering lines, need to replace the Misimoto coolant lines that go to the reservoir but I need to get clamps that actually fit. Swapped the oil cooler to the new engine.
Pending:
- coolant lines
- header and exhaust (milltek)
- timing chain on the JCW engine
- gaskets and seals
- install new clutch (Valeo with single mass flywheel)
- reassemble intake manifold with new injectors and o-rings
- start putting things back together
This is the first time I've done a clutch or swapped an engine by myself, it's taking a while because I'm making sure things are done properly. I sent my DME to Detroit tuned so it can handle the JCM engine, header, exhaust, and 16% pulley. Should be a lot of fun when it's done.
Finished putting the car back together, man that was a lot of work. Started immediately on the first try, went around the block for a quick test drive and it feels really good. First time doing a swap by myself, some bruises and cuts but it sure beats paying a shop $5.5k for labor (that's what they quoted me, for the engine swap alone!)
Parts installed:
JCW engine with 63k miles, 150 compression and 5%, 8%, 8%, 5% leak down
Stock JCW injectors
1 step colder plugs
M7 16% pulley & +4% lightweight crank
timing chain service
SC service
thermostat
Valeo clutch
Quaif LSD
passenger engine mount
Milltek header and resonated exhaust
Forge intake tube
M7 strut bar
Detroit Tuned tune
lots of o-rings and gaskets
axles
Mishimoto coolant hoses
power steering kit (lines, reservoir)
magnetic oil plug
GRSM intercooler is on backorder, should get it by the end of June
Ended up having an issue with the M7 SC pulley, the bolts came loose even though I tightened them to spec (50 in-lbs). I followed their directions to the letter and ended up adjusting the placement a couple of times to have a perfectly lined belt. That means it briefly rubbed against the SC before moving out and shredding the belt. Because the pulley spun on the shaft, the shaft is a little bit scored. Had to use sandpaper to smooth it out and be able to install a new pulley, not very happy about that. Switched to a CS pulley and followed Mod Mini's instructions, looks like a better design on the collar and the car feels a lot better now. Good thing I pulled over in time so there seems to be no damage to the engine due to heat. Dealing with ECS to see if I can get it replaced under warranty or if I'm stuck with a broken pulley.
I was waiting for a GRS but went with an Airtec instead, also did the M7 boots. Wasn’t thrilled about grinding down pieces of the intake manifold but so far it’s working great. The boots are a pain in the *** though, not looking forward to removing this intercooler
Finally received a couple of pieces from the UK: a coil pack relocation plate (better clearance with the larger intercooler) and a visor mount for the UltraGauge. Also, my headliner is starting to fall apart so I'll have to figure out how to get it fixed
Received the new side markers and had to change the plugs for the wires as they were broken, looks much better now. Also, I was able to find the hitch on Amazon, ECS kept delaying the order saying CURT was backed up with orders. Looks weird with the extension, but it's much easier to connect\disconnect things as the hitch itself ends up behind the bumper. I can ride my bike again!
Found a guy that does mobile headliner repair, he replaced the fabric and looks much better (glue still needs to dry). Turns out my scoop broke when I installed the Airtec, it seems it was broken before and someone fixed it. I like the new look.
I installed an LED kit inside the car, and replaced the low beams with a white color instead of the stock yellow. Now I'm chasing a boost leak somewhere, only getting 13.5 PSI of boost at redline, I was expecting 17 or something. Had a smoke test done and only a minute amount of smoke came out of the hose for the BPV, ordered one of those to see what happens.
Double check the connections on the snoot boots, I also had a boost leak when I switched over to the hobo intercooler (which is fairly identical to the Airtec). I had to add some material (i used spliced silicone hose) in order for the brackets to clamp down tight enough on the snoot boots.
Double check the connections on the snoot boots, I also had a boost leak when I switched over to the hobo intercooler (which is fairly identical to the Airtec). I had to add some material (i used spliced silicone hose) in order for the brackets to clamp down tight enough on the snoot boots.
I did, I was using the M7 boots and switched back to stock but didn't notice a difference. I ended up ordering a new BPV from Detroit Tuned, the difference in spring tension is quite significant. I know it has a stiffer spring but the original one feels broken at this point (is that normal?). Waiting for the BPV hose so I can swap the items.
What is really strange is that my idle is completely fine, the car drives with no issues. The only problem I see is that if I go full throttle it gets to 10 PSI very quickly but after that, it climbs very slowly. After switching back to the stock boots it gets to 13.5 faster but it just stays there all the way to redline. I don't have an AFR gauge to be able to see how rich it's running and where.
I changed the black inlet tube, the green gasket (even though it was not pinched), the BPV with the DT version, and the IC boots with new stock ones as the old ones I had were starting to crack. Now I'm seeing 15 PSI at redline, the BPV was most likely the culprit as I don't see any issues with the inlet tube.
The height adjustment on the driver seat is not working and it's stuck on the highest position, even when it was down I didn't have a lot of head room. I broke down and ordered some seats, they should be here in a couple of weeks.
After a long trip (6 hours) I found out my driver seat is uneven, I had back pain after 2 hours. I had to keep adjusting myself and it was a pain, also the height adjustment broke and it's stuck in the high position. Preview on the latest purchase, waiting for the brackets so I can put them on.
Bit of a pain to install but they're in, much more comfortable and I can sit lower. As a friend of mine put it, I now feel like I'm sitting in the car and not on it.