R50/53 Supercharger
Supercharger, leaks and what nots
I want Adrian to do some tuning on my car, but in anticipation for this I decided to pull the exhaust manifold to get a bung welded on. Get the car on ramps to get to the cat flange. On my way there, I noticed all kinds of leaks! Pretty much every fluid was leaking. So the tuning has to wait till I get some of this taken care of. So, car is on jack stands and in front service mode. While doing all this, I figured I might as well service the supercharger and check other bits. So I have a couple of questions for the group.
TIA for any advice!
- I found the Indy that worked on the car when the PO had it, they told me the replaced the SC, how do you tell if the SC is original or replace after the fact? Also, I DO NOT RECOMMEND this Indy. PM if you would like to know who they are. Found zip ties where screws where suppose to be, missing bolts, loose brackets The list goes on.
- The SC is out. When I spin the pulley, the water pump makes a noise. Nothing major. Should I hear anything?
- Going to replace most of the oil seals. Pan, crank and cam sensors. Any other recommendation on other things to do while I am this deep in?
TIA for any advice!
Last edited by lotter1; Feb 18, 2021 at 08:39 AM.
I had a knock sensor go bad so I just completed the SC service while I had everything off. I would highly recommend you just put a new water pump in while you have the SC off.
Along with the seals you are replacing I also changed the dip stick o-ring.
Along with the seals you are replacing I also changed the dip stick o-ring.
Yep, good advice!
Also add the O-ring for the crank sensor as well. There is an O-ring behind the coolant flange (where the water pump connects to the engine). If the hoses have never been replaced, replace them as well (also consider changing the hose clamps if they are rusty). A new thermostat + housing, new coolant temp sensor, etc
Also add the O-ring for the crank sensor as well. There is an O-ring behind the coolant flange (where the water pump connects to the engine). If the hoses have never been replaced, replace them as well (also consider changing the hose clamps if they are rusty). A new thermostat + housing, new coolant temp sensor, etc
Last edited by nd-photo.nl; Feb 18, 2021 at 01:57 AM.
I'm all for replacing parts when you have the car torn apart but it can get spendy pretty quickly. Once you're comfortable with front end service mode, you can always go back in later.
LCA's are something to save for when you have the subframe off.
If you're holding the Supercharger in your hand, you may as well do the oil service, water pump and associated seals and also patch up any leaks you see (cam sensor o-rings, dipstick o-ring etc. as others have said).
But preventatively replacing other parts for the sake of it - depends on your budget
.
LCA's are something to save for when you have the subframe off.
If you're holding the Supercharger in your hand, you may as well do the oil service, water pump and associated seals and also patch up any leaks you see (cam sensor o-rings, dipstick o-ring etc. as others have said).
But preventatively replacing other parts for the sake of it - depends on your budget
.
Thanks for the info! The car has 82k on it, fyi
What is the general consensus? Stick with factory seals(gaskets) or are there better/equivalent options? Same for hard parts, like water pump?
Looking at replacing the thermostat and gasket, but it appears to be more cost effective to get the metal thermostat housing kit from ECS or the likes, for a splash more than the OEM thermostat and gasket?
Thanks again
What is the general consensus? Stick with factory seals(gaskets) or are there better/equivalent options? Same for hard parts, like water pump?
Looking at replacing the thermostat and gasket, but it appears to be more cost effective to get the metal thermostat housing kit from ECS or the likes, for a splash more than the OEM thermostat and gasket?
Thanks again
I started out by buying the SC kit from Way Motor Works that had the water pump and o-rings. Then I needed the Crank O-ring and a couple odd parts that ECS had.
Since I had an Oil Pan gasket already I figured I change that too. When I took down the oil pan I was surprised on how many “Cast” cracks were in the original oil pan so I just ordered one from ECS that they recommended for $76.
Bottom line was I stayed OEM for everything I could except the oil pan as I wanted the best one I could find.
Since I had an Oil Pan gasket already I figured I change that too. When I took down the oil pan I was surprised on how many “Cast” cracks were in the original oil pan so I just ordered one from ECS that they recommended for $76.
Bottom line was I stayed OEM for everything I could except the oil pan as I wanted the best one I could find.
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