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About to install coilovers & brakes. Tips , tricks or parts list help needed
So I'm finally going to put on my coilovers and better brakes.
the brakes are obvious and strait forward BUT is the rear caliper a simple compress style or a spin in style ?
I also have rev9 hyperstreet 2x adjustable coilovers.. is there anything else I should order and be replacing while I'm doing the coilovers ? I'm guessing that the removal of the old suspension is also easy but when I put on the new coilovers should I put them at either the highest or lowest settings and set them from there ?
any tips or tricks that could help me during this ???
The rears are spin in style. When I installed my coil overs, I started high and went low. Will you be installing camber plates? Maybe some adjustable sway bar links, and if you’re up for it swap, I’d consider the sway-bars too.
The rears are spin in style. When I installed my coil overs, I started high and went low. Will you be installing camber plates? Maybe some adjustable sway bar links, and if you’re up for it swap, I’d consider the sway-bars too.
I have considered a rear bar BUT I don't mind the little bit of walk out the rear end has as it helps under steer so I might hold off on that...I don't have caster camber plates they're just normal ball type ??? Good idea to start high , should I also then put them on the tightest rebound setting ? I have polly bushings all over and front strut bar , rear trunk bar and diagonal convertible rods too and its PLENTY stiff already imo. And honestly I like exactly where its at swaying wise with under n over steer I just wanna get it to hug the road better , so I'm hoping being able to set the suspension better and ny pair of slicks should also then help.
Be careful with the pinch bolt that holds the front strut in the knuckle. I snapped mine off and had to drill it out. If it breaks I think the only options are drill it out or get a new knuckle. After I broke mine (of course) I have seen people suggest lots of penetrating oil, heat, and using impact only (I was using a breaker bar when I broke mine).
Be careful with the pinch bolt that holds the front strut in the knuckle. I snapped mine off and had to drill it out. If it breaks I think the only options are drill it out or get a new knuckle. After I broke mine (of course) I have seen people suggest lots of penetrating oil, heat, and using impact only (I was using a breaker bar when I broke mine).
I will second this. I've swapped out struts and springs twice on 2 different minis. I broke one pinch bolt the first time and it sucked.I hit them with PB blaster for a couple of times in the days leading up to actually working on them. I also hit them with a propane torch. I haven't used an impact on them, but would be careful about using a long breaker bar, too much torque = snapped bolt.
I also like to put antiseize on the pinch bolts when I reassemble them so it will come apart without drama in the future.
buy ball joints and poly compliance bushings for the front arms, and a pickle fork air impact those bastards are hard to get out.
I actually recently filled all my bushings with polly or replaced ones that couldn't be so thats taken care of ..
I actually was just looking at picking up a bmaf impact at farm n fleet today AND my buddy just got one for Xmas n said he wants to try it out when we do this ..
good idea on the strut mounts , I thought the kit came with them and if not , yes I better just replace them..
I guess i MIGHT AS WELLLLLL do stainless steel lines too???? Or not worth the 200$ ????
whats the best brake fluid you think for our car ? I don't need longevity i need performance, I don't mind changing it sooner if I have to...
I'm going to be throwing on a vip engine brace too I'm purchasing from another member so add that to the list too going on.. lol this better help the Troll handle come warmer weather... the other night it was like 15 out , perfect roads and honest to God I was giving the business to a 3v stang who pulled up on me n snickered at me and TRIED to dip off. Needless to say my mini IN A STRAIT LINE was faster on the get go and middle end. I was surprised my self.. so let's add that power with some handling. I CANT WAIT TO RIP UP A TRACK , lol n pray I don't rip up my car ..lol I still consider my self novice.
I will go with the motul then also , seems alot of you guys run that in your coopers also.
I just picked this baby up to help make these kinda jobs easier , I tested it on my wife's suv and the mini and it too off any lug with ease in seconds . What an awesome tool this thing is
I have the Dewalt version, the 3/8 and 1/2 drive. You can’t beat the 600ft/lbs of breaking torque on the 1/2 drive. Handy tool to have, I take it on my off roading treks too. The 90 degree Milwaukee comes in handy too for most smaller bolts.
+1 on motul 600, it's not tons better than ate 200, but I still have to watch the amount of heat I put in my brakes, so I figure every degree helps. I flush mine before every track even, and sometimes after, so wet boiling point isn't really an issue for me. If you haven't bought it already, I'd get it from FCP euro, that's my plan. They do lifetime replacement for free (minus shipping) so after the first bottle, it should only cost about $7/bottle.
Where'd you find your stainless lines? I just ordered some from waymotorworks, cost me $100 for all 4 corners. I'm upgrading to R56 calipers so I needed new lines up front, figured may as well add them in the rear too while I'm at it. I'm not really sold on the value of stainless lines yet, but I might change my mind once I have them on. I have been annoyed with the light travel in the first 2 inches of the pedal lately, so maybe this will have some effect on that.
Which hoosiers are those? A7? or R7? I've got a set of R7's for mine and they're mind blowing on track; hard on the brakes though.
Last edited by Racingguy04; Dec 31, 2020 at 07:59 PM.
I will go with the motul then also , seems alot of you guys run that in your coopers also.
I just picked this baby up to help make these kinda jobs easier , I tested it on my wife's suv and the mini and it too off any lug with ease in seconds . What an awesome tool this thing is
Use PB Blaster and the Milwaukee Fuel 1/2 shank(with 1400 ft lbs of torque) , that will remove those pinch bolts easy. Breaker bars put too much side torque on these bolts and they shear off...
Just ordered rear adjustable control arms too and I have a question about these 2 things..
#1 , the adjustable camber top hats , can I swap the non adjustable ones off of my rev9's for the ones below ?
#2, do you think the swaybar spacer center steering things actually really help at all ? It makes sense from what I read about them..
and once all the parts arrive here , I will go out and each day 2x a day for a few days i will spray the bolts down that are coming off with pb blaster and let it soak in. I also got a torch on hand and that milwaukee impact..my car is also rust free and never seen a winter yet ( other than few times last year in emergencies) so I don't see me having to fight any bolts..even my stock exhaust bolts came off with no issues. I've actually never had any issues with bolts or screws coming out on this car. Really makes working on it much more pleasant.
BTW, cmon you should already know where I got my ss lines. EBAY BRUH !!!!! LOL
I just got a feeling my last parts gonna come a day before the last of my 3 surgeries. Then idc , lol ille be out working on it the day after AGAIN aaaaaaaand delay recovery time but idc . No pain no game,lol.
HAPPY NEW YEARS BTW !
Could anyone chime in about the above questions. I would be ordering them soon if the hats are compatible and the swaybar things do anything beneficial I will get them.
The Megan Racing roll center adjuster spacers: Since you are lowering on coilovers, I would use them. BUT, they will reduce clearance between the control arm to your wheels.
For the camber plates, check with the seller on their return policy. Would suck to order them only to find out the coilover shaft doesn’t fit the plate bushing...
The Megan Racing roll center adjuster spacers: Since you are lowering on coilovers, I would use them. BUT, they will reduce clearance between the control arm to your wheels.
For the camber plates, check with the seller on their return policy. Would suck to order them only to find out the coilover shaft doesn’t fit the plate bushing...
I think that's my best option , I even tried contacting the sellers in hopes they had some info but no. Buuuuuut I belive they shooooould work.
Of course it turned into more, lol... I ended up doing rear lower control arm and rear end links and still need to get and do the rear upper control arm and front end links as well as install the ss brake lines.. but the removal and install was all strait forward. I wish though I would have bought and replaced the pinch bolts but ille do that when the links n stuff go on. They were just hard taking in and out.
the coilovers at their highest setting ACTUALLY sits higher than stock so thats was my biggest fear. So I can adjust everything from here which I will have professionally done as thats going to be beyond me.i also had to grind my calipers because they hit my rims with new pads on.I can do a stock front alignment by my self but not a performance lowering and all 4x corners setup. I can't wait to feel what she's going to feel like after all this and then on the Hoosiers I have for it..
thx for the tips and help guys..
