Ok a few days ago I noticed my car wasn’t as peppy like it usually is then finally the cel came on and was a PO107 for Map low input. Bought a new sensor and cleared the code. Drove it to work yesterday and still didn’t feel like it normally does then on the was home the cel came on again. I pull the codes and now it’s a PO108 for Map high input so I break out the Mini Bible and find out the car uses two map sensors except the one after the sc is a tmap which is the same but also measures temperature.

So thinking the sensor I took out of the intake is good I replace the one before the sc ( looked original) clear the codes but didn’t start it. So today I leave for work start the car and idles like crap and didn’t make it down the street cause it wouldn’t stay running. Jumped into another vehicle and left for work. So has anyone experience this scenario?

 

I've not.

However best place to start is by pulling codes. Could just be a bad sensor...

 

Which I did first time was a 107 then it was a 108

 

The two MAP sensors are different, If you swapped the new one into the TMAP sensor spot, it won't run properly. I don't have the bosch numbers at hand, but I'll try to get them tomorrow for you. I went through this about 2 years ago and made notes (somewhere).

 

yep that’s exactly what I did. That would be great!

 

The MAP Sensor ID markings are: BMW 0872648 04693125AA
The TMAP Sensor ID markings are: BMW 0872679 04693279AA

I don't remember which numbers helped me get the right ones, I think it was the last set. BTW, for clarity, the MAP is on the ds by the valve cover, and the TMAP is up front by the radiator.
HTH,

 

Thank you so much!! Learned something new

 

Bookmark www.realoem.com on your computer. Illustrations and part numbers for everything you'll need for your Mini is displayed on that site.

 

The issue with identifying the two MAP sensors is that some parts houses identify BOTH as MAP sensors, with no discrimination between MAP and TMAP, thus my identification by ALL IDs and their relative locations so he doesn't have to wade through all of the crap that I did to ID, locate and source the correct ones. This is why I documented which was which and which went where, for future reference by myself and others. Just trying to help others through what I've already been through.
Just sending someone to realoem doesn't help them if they don't know which is which, now does it?

 

I have the right part # ordered which is the MAP before the supercharger. I’ve noticed my power is down, gas mileage sucks and I’m not getting any “ pop pop crackle” on de acceleration. I’m hoping that would cause all of that??

 

MAP and TMAP Sensors are not interchangable. The difference between the two is that the TMAP has a built in temperature sensor aka. "Temperature Manifold Absolute Pressure"

 

yep thank you

 

Turned out to be a plugged cat

 

How did you determine that? Years back I used to check them using a temp gun, inlet & outlet temps

Outlet > inlet = normal
Outlet < inlet = plugged
inlet = outlet = dead but flowing

 

Started about a month ago I began noticing my performance wasn’t quite what it was then the mileage took a hit. Then got a CEL with a code for 107 then a 108. Replaced both sensors and was better but not performance wise. A couple days later I had to replace my left front wheel bearing so when finished I took it for a drive. During my drive I got on it hard and heard a big “boom” and saw grey smoke behind me then the CEL came on. Got it home and pulled the code for non functioning rear 02. Removed the 02 and it was shredded, dropped the exhaust from the cat and the cat was empty. Non of the substrate was no longer there. I think some of it might be in the mufflers.

 

found it.... it where the pipe splits into two. So far I can’t get it out

 

If one bothers to take time to cross reference part numbers and where/what they're mounted to ( function ), while paying attention to the part number ON THE PART, then yes it helps very much. However, if one behaves like "Stevie Wonder mechanic" blindly throwing / switching parts at a a problem then no, you are correct. Realoem willl be of no value.