R50/53 Harmonic Balancer Options?
Harmonic Balancer Options?
I've got around 180K miles on my 03' JCW R53 mini. I'm still running the oem harmonic balancer/crank pulley....which is starting to look pretty rough. I figured that I should probably replace it before it comes apart.
I was looking online, and there there are a ton of options. I could go with an oem type balancer, then their are the SFI and ATI brand balancers, then you have the fluidampers, and Speedmaster types.
For a daily driver, what's a good quality damper to replace the oem one with? I saw that JEG's has this Speedmaster one for $175 which sounds like a pretty good deal for a fluid filled damper.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/7....1069/10002/-1
I was looking online, and there there are a ton of options. I could go with an oem type balancer, then their are the SFI and ATI brand balancers, then you have the fluidampers, and Speedmaster types.
For a daily driver, what's a good quality damper to replace the oem one with? I saw that JEG's has this Speedmaster one for $175 which sounds like a pretty good deal for a fluid filled damper.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/7....1069/10002/-1
Until the fluid leaks out like a face lift pass side engine mount..
Not to dampen the parade but your talking about a very important component to the crank and bearings.....with some parts its just not about cost.
I would suggest an ATI if not then the face lift stock crank pulley.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html
And the bolts are one time use...
Not to dampen the parade but your talking about a very important component to the crank and bearings.....with some parts its just not about cost.
I would suggest an ATI if not then the face lift stock crank pulley.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html
And the bolts are one time use...
Do you have any facts or data to backup your claim that the fluid filled one from JEG'S isn't a quality built damper? Or are you just throwing out worthless internet opinion?
All you had to say was "no....I really have no idea what I'm talking about".....and that would have been plenty. Way to double down and show everyone you are an idiot....bravo. 
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I replaced my Facelift oem crank pulley (still in good condition) with an ATI super damper. It’s the best money can buy IMO, and I saw it as an investment into the health of much more expensive components down the line.
ATI is the best you can buy because why? Because it's the most expensive? Not trying to be a smart ***....just want some supporting data.
My oem one has lasted 180k miles......
My oem one has lasted 180k miles......
ATI is the best by far as I've used all the brands and been through all the issues.
The ATI is an inertia damper and dampens better than a fluid or just rubber damper. There is plenty of data on google from all the years as this has been debated mainly by the chevy guys a long time but the data shows ATI dampers always work better than fluid, gel, or solid dampers
The ATI also has the highest quality as you can see if you ever put one next to a fluid or other damper just in the machining and fit and finish.
We have had many issues with other dampers like the fluid dampers not being machined correctly, and if you look around there are even threads on here that customers show getting them stuck half way on or not being able to even get them to press on. No one wants to be in the middle of the job and not able to finish it then have to argue with the manufacture that it won't fit when it clearly has an issue.
The ATI is also just a little lighter than the others, and a few pouds lighter than stock so it will allow the engine to rev faster.
Those are all the facts from what I have seen. But the biggest thing for me is over all the years of working on these cars I have installed many ATI dampers and you can just physically tell the engine is running smoother after installing the damper. Most people wouldn't notice it, but I do just from experience with MINIs. That's what really sets the deal on only recommending the ATI damper for me, and why I run it on all my personal cars and race car.
It may cost a little bit more, but well worth it to get a quality part that is tried and true, and will fit right the first time.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/super-...ulley-r53.html
The ATI is an inertia damper and dampens better than a fluid or just rubber damper. There is plenty of data on google from all the years as this has been debated mainly by the chevy guys a long time but the data shows ATI dampers always work better than fluid, gel, or solid dampers
The ATI also has the highest quality as you can see if you ever put one next to a fluid or other damper just in the machining and fit and finish.
We have had many issues with other dampers like the fluid dampers not being machined correctly, and if you look around there are even threads on here that customers show getting them stuck half way on or not being able to even get them to press on. No one wants to be in the middle of the job and not able to finish it then have to argue with the manufacture that it won't fit when it clearly has an issue.
The ATI is also just a little lighter than the others, and a few pouds lighter than stock so it will allow the engine to rev faster.
Those are all the facts from what I have seen. But the biggest thing for me is over all the years of working on these cars I have installed many ATI dampers and you can just physically tell the engine is running smoother after installing the damper. Most people wouldn't notice it, but I do just from experience with MINIs. That's what really sets the deal on only recommending the ATI damper for me, and why I run it on all my personal cars and race car.
It may cost a little bit more, but well worth it to get a quality part that is tried and true, and will fit right the first time.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/super-...ulley-r53.html
Yes, it runs noticeably smoother after mounting the ATI. Its a lot more expensive, but worth it. I bought it from a reliability point of view. Full pic review > https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4558447 & https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4559185
We put on a PRW unit about 30K ago. The damper on there before was the OEM one that was beginning to hit the timing case. After install, the motor was noticeably smoother. Combined with new motor mounts, the car was making a lot less noise and the dash vibrations were largely gone.
If you're running your car aggressively, I'd say ATI due to it's higher quality and expected performance stability in extreme situations (auto-x, canyon carving, HPDE), but if this is a commute vehicle, the fluid dampened PRW and presumably the Speedmaster would be just fine.
If you're running your car aggressively, I'd say ATI due to it's higher quality and expected performance stability in extreme situations (auto-x, canyon carving, HPDE), but if this is a commute vehicle, the fluid dampened PRW and presumably the Speedmaster would be just fine.
I only offered my opinion because that’s what your original post asked for.
Also, I was able to do my own due diligence online while choosing which damper to buy without sounding like a smart ***. just saying.
What no name calling or snide remarks for Way ?
Been working on New MINI's since they landed in the ports, even worked for MINI retiring in 2017. Even had first "how to" here for our fuel filter replacement with pics, Probably spent $20K on aftermarket stuff from all vendors, 3 body kits, 4 diff rear spoilers measuring down force including a JCM model off a MINIUSA R53 race car, 3 diff balancers, 4 intakes, 7 different exhaust systems, 4 different intercoolers including but not limited to having a temp sensor in the intake to measure temps there. Why ? because I was semi-retired, have a crap load of money and had no problem "paying my tuition" to learn about the brand and what was the best bang for the buck.
That said, in all the years and 234K miles travelled in my R53, I've seen plenty of "weekend worrier" smart mouthed guys like you come and go....merely a flash in the pan by NAM standards who only end up with chronic undiagnosed engine codes, a crappy tune or worse, blown motor. Discouraged by all this after "modding stupidly" cursing the brand then buying a Honda or a Subaru.
So how about just doing us all a favor pal and just get on with it already, move onto the end of your chapter here.
120K out of an OEM pulley is probably a new record; certainly a standard deviation or two from the norm. Would put on what you can afford. Anything north of the original OEM one in quality is an improvement. Mod MINI himself installed an SFI/PRW in his famous video. ATI is considered "the very best" but you're going to pay for it. The good news is by all accounts you'll only do either of these once.
It takes a few miles for the silicone in any fluid damper to warm to proper temperature to work correctly. Tests long ago showed this. Not to say that, that's bad, just don't go racing off at high rpm's without a bit of a warmup.
Take a trip to your local race track and look around. In my experience (mostly NHRA drag racing), the ATI (and similar designs) outnumber all other dampers by a large margin. I have an ATI on my small Chevy, I've adapted an ATI to an off brand engine, and...yes...an ATI for mi Mini.
Mike
P.s. - It's not...a balancer. In the case of the Mini engine, it's a pure...damper.
Take a trip to your local race track and look around. In my experience (mostly NHRA drag racing), the ATI (and similar designs) outnumber all other dampers by a large margin. I have an ATI on my small Chevy, I've adapted an ATI to an off brand engine, and...yes...an ATI for mi Mini.
Mike
P.s. - It's not...a balancer. In the case of the Mini engine, it's a pure...damper.
We put on a PRW unit about 30K ago. The damper on there before was the OEM one that was beginning to hit the timing case. After install, the motor was noticeably smoother. Combined with new motor mounts, the car was making a lot less noise and the dash vibrations were largely gone.
If you're running your car aggressively, I'd say ATI due to it's higher quality and expected performance stability in extreme situations (auto-x, canyon carving, HPDE), but if this is a commute vehicle, the fluid dampened PRW and presumably the Speedmaster would be just fine.
If you're running your car aggressively, I'd say ATI due to it's higher quality and expected performance stability in extreme situations (auto-x, canyon carving, HPDE), but if this is a commute vehicle, the fluid dampened PRW and presumably the Speedmaster would be just fine.
120K out of an OEM pulley is probably a new record; certainly a standard deviation or two from the norm. Would put on what you can afford. Anything north of the original OEM one in quality is an improvement. Mod MINI himself installed an SFI/PRW in his famous video. ATI is considered "the very best" but you're going to pay for it. The good news is by all accounts you'll only do either of these once.
On a side note...I also have the original SC and power steering pump motor also (knock on wood).
What no name calling or snide remarks for Way ?
Been working on New MINI's since they landed in the ports, even worked for MINI retiring in 2017. Even had first "how to" here for our fuel filter replacement with pics, Probably spent $20K on aftermarket stuff from all vendors, 3 body kits, 4 diff rear spoilers measuring down force including a JCM model off a MINIUSA R53 race car, 3 diff balancers, 4 intakes, 7 different exhaust systems, 4 different intercoolers including but not limited to having a temp sensor in the intake to measure temps there. Why ? because I was semi-retired, have a crap load of money and had no problem "paying my tuition" to learn about the brand and what was the best bang for the buck.
That said, in all the years and 234K miles travelled in my R53, I've seen plenty of "weekend worrier" smart mouthed guys like you come and go....merely a flash in the pan by NAM standards who only end up with chronic undiagnosed engine codes, a crappy tune or worse, blown motor. Discouraged by all this after "modding stupidly" cursing the brand then buying a Honda or a Subaru.
So how about just doing us all a favor pal and just get on with it already, move onto the end of your chapter here.
Been working on New MINI's since they landed in the ports, even worked for MINI retiring in 2017. Even had first "how to" here for our fuel filter replacement with pics, Probably spent $20K on aftermarket stuff from all vendors, 3 body kits, 4 diff rear spoilers measuring down force including a JCM model off a MINIUSA R53 race car, 3 diff balancers, 4 intakes, 7 different exhaust systems, 4 different intercoolers including but not limited to having a temp sensor in the intake to measure temps there. Why ? because I was semi-retired, have a crap load of money and had no problem "paying my tuition" to learn about the brand and what was the best bang for the buck.
That said, in all the years and 234K miles travelled in my R53, I've seen plenty of "weekend worrier" smart mouthed guys like you come and go....merely a flash in the pan by NAM standards who only end up with chronic undiagnosed engine codes, a crappy tune or worse, blown motor. Discouraged by all this after "modding stupidly" cursing the brand then buying a Honda or a Subaru.
So how about just doing us all a favor pal and just get on with it already, move onto the end of your chapter here.
What are you rambling on about? I think you must have me confused with someone else....

Your the one who's confused......
Fluid damper = expensive paperweight.









