Numbers dont look good... averages of 3 tests...

#1 145
#2 98
#3 115
#4 115

Sure does not drive like it has a hurt motor.... still running the oil that was in it from the day it was bought, PO said it was just changed. A swap has been on the todo list for this week. Planning to run a 10W-30 oil, once that is done, will re-check it but not expecting any change in the numbers

edit: will do a leakdown test to determine where its bleeding from...

 

I agree those numbers are not reassuring, but I suspect the test was done with the throttle closed.
Please try again, all 4 plugs out, throttle wide open, 6 or 7 cranks to pump the gauge up. 150 lbs psi +/- 10% is a good target.

 

Throttle open?? no, throttle was in the NC position... Does not explain that 145 psi #1 cylinder, which repeated at the end of the test. Pulled the #1 plug again to double check and it came back with the same pressure. I will see if I can get this done at lunch and report back...

Is there a fuse for the fuel pump that I can pull?

 

Yes, there's a fuse & yes, you could disconnect the coil pack but there's no real need to do either.
All four plugs out & throttle wide open will simply give a more accurate set of readings.
A leakdown would be well worthwhile. Take your time!

 

the motivation behind the fuel pump fuse is to not dump fuel into the cylinders... no pressure, next to zero fuel. I did have the coil disconnected and had fuel on the compression tester end.

 

Yes, that's fine! You could also squirt a little oil into the cylinders to seal the rings.
But a leakdown test will really show where the problem is.
Since you haven't had the car all that long & it seems it's running basically 'OK', I'd put a very generous dose of carb cleaner in the tank. With any luck, it might just be gummed-up valves.

 

Yeah I thought of the wet test as well, the leak down I will do if the wet test returns odd results. It is very odd though to have 1 cylinder high while the others low. If the re-test gives say 145 avg across all cylinders then that makes me think there might be an issue with the #1 cylinder where it always read high while the others did not with the throttle closed. That would make me think its got a free flow of air to build pressure like that. Additionally, #1 & 2 being side by side, the #2 was the lowest measured... hummm... love finding problems!

 

Pulled F2 for the coil & injectors then did comp check on a "warm" motor (>170*)...150,100,130, 122...

and now no-start, no codes.

 

Fixed... battery disconnect for >20 minutes, re-connect, start motor, stop motor, clear codes and golden.

 

Did an oil change today after getting it back on the road... switched to Royal Purple 10w-30. Have no idea what was in there before. Will re-check compression after 500~1000 miles to see if there is a change. Research says it is possible there could be a stuck ring with carbon buildup. If that is the case I wonder if the seafoam thru the intake would be able to free that. The leakdown test should tell the tale though.

 

If you think it's rings, I'd put Seafoam direct into the cylinders & let it soak overnight. More likely is a sticky valve, which Seafoam should help with.

 

You mean carbon on the valve seat? I think the sea foam fog would fix that. What I will do is add an access hose off the FPR when I wrap the fuel line. Also with the oil change today and the additional BPV bandaid spring, thing is noticeably quicker with boost response. Still need to swap the BPV.

Edit: Yeah, rings...

 

Update... compression test done, 137k (?)

#1 153
#2 110
#3 120
#4 135

Sure does not run like its got a hurt motor... running significantly better than it had been.

Still need to do the leakdown test.

 

Another full can of seafoam processed thru the engine... still lots of smoke @ the exhaust. Engine started easier this morning.

Will be doing compression test again in the next day or so