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I went to get the front end aligned and the shop would not do an alignment as the camber was too negative on the drivers side. Visually you can see that the front drivers side wheel is angled out at the bottom. He indicated that I must have a bent strut and that I should replace both struts. The crazy part is that this all started when I hit a pot hole on the passenger side. Shortly after I hit the pothole (might have happened at that same time) the DSC and TPS lights came on and stayed on and some posts indicated that alignment might be off. The first trip to the alignment shop indicated a bad lower ball joint and outer tie rod end on the passenger side. Went back home replaced the tie-rods. WHile down there, I found the boot on the passenger side tierod was torn and it was slinging grease everywhere so I replaced the axle. Is there a way to confirm that the strut is bent? are there no other ways to make this adjustment?
A little back ground:
I replaced the struts on my Coop 2 years ago. When I replaced the drivers side strut, I also had to replace the drivers side steering knuckle as I broke the large strut bolt and could not drill it out. I had some mushrooming on the strut mount column so I flattened out the strut mount column and installed some strut column re-enforcement plates. I didn't notice an issue the issue with the camber at the time and I am sure I ahve had an alignment done since then (different shop).
If I need to replace the struts, I will do that but just want to make sure that is going to fix the problem with the camber (and hopefully the DCS and TPS sensor lights).
Just re-read your comment, then it should be something else yes.
More likely to be mushroomed strut towers, which is a common issue. You will probably need to bang the metal in place again, you can reinforce them with stut tower defenders, which you will also see in the video below
so if I have strut reinforcement plates installed. where else could the deflection be coming from. How does a strut. at the mount or by the steering knuckle.. Wont get to this until later in the week. Just trying to think it through before I get in there.
That is the thing, I don't remember any hit that would have damaged the drivers side. I have hit pot holes hard, cut the side wall on the passenger side a couple of time over the last several years but nothing on the driver side. I put in new strut mounts when I installed the struts a couple of years ago. When I get in ther next weekend will make sure to example everything closely. I will post a couple of pictures alter today of the wheel and strut mount. Maybe that will highlight something
Here are a couple of pictures. Visually you can see the negative camber on the drivers side wheel. on the strut tower, there is still mushrooming present particulariy to the inside and towards the firewall. The reenforcement plates I installed are installed between the strut and the strut tower. I saw there was another type of plate that could be added on top of the strut tower.. The claim is that between the 2 reenforcement plates, they maintain the shape of the top of the strut tower.
After a closer inspection of the strut towers, I can't eliminate that as the possible source of the negative camber issue. The strut mounts look ok no obvious cracks.
Any thoughts on the best option to correct the mushrooming and hopefully camber.
Ian
Here are a couple of pictures. Visually you can see the negative camber on the drivers side wheel. on the strut tower, there is still mushrooming present particulariy to the inside and towards the firewall. The reenforcement plates I installed are installed between the strut and the strut tower. I saw there was another type of plate that could be added on top of the strut tower.. The claim is that between the 2 reenforcement plates, they maintain the shape of the top of the strut tower.
After a closer inspection of the strut towers, I can't eliminate that as the possible source of the negative camber issue. The strut mounts look ok no obvious cracks.
Any thoughts on the best option to correct the mushrooming and hopefully camber.
Ian
with a block of wood and a large hammer you can correct the mushrooming if there is any. you should lift the car and have the weight off of the tower before doing that. I've seen mod mini (YouTube) do this in a few suspension related videos...
I have similar strut tower reinforcements. can't remember the brand. Before I put them in I corrected for mushrooming as above.
your camber looks normal to my eye. I'd find a different shop
Last edited by ssoliman; Jul 12, 2020 at 08:55 PM.
The picture isn't particular good. He indicated that the as found Camber was -2.1. I found a set of alignment specs in another post indicating Front camber should be -0.9 to -0.1 degrees.
Stock alignment for 2002-2006 MC or MCS Front camber -0.9 to -0.1 degrees Front toe 0.11 to 0.19 degrees or 1/8 to 3/16" toe in. Rear camber -1.0 to -2.0 degrees Rear toe 0.13 to 0.27 degrees or 1/8 to 1/4" toe in.
What brand of strut bearings do you have? Have you taken the wheel off to inspect the strut to see if it's truly bent?
My experience is that the under tower reinforcement plate does not affect geometry very much. We installed Bilstein B4, H-Sport lowering springs (-.75" lower) and Cravenspeed undurator (same as video above) and alignment is in spec for camber and toe.
I can't remember the brand of strut. I plan on taking it out this weekend. Right now, the camber on the passenger side is -1 and on the driver side it is -2.1. I didn't see any obvious damage to the strut mount (from the top). Will know more when I get the strut out.
Te interesting thing here is, that this all started when I hit a pot hole on the passenger side a few weeks back. I was going to ignore it but the DSC and TPS lights came on shortly after I hit the pothole. This seemed to point to a issue with speed sensor, steering column sensor or alignment. I decided to go get the alignment checked. This identified a bad lower ball joint and outer tier rod on the passenger side (the site I hit) and the tie rod on the drivers side was seized up. So replaced both tie rods, Went back to the alignment shop where they found the camber on the drivers side to be off.
After I finally get past the issue with the front end, I still have to figure out the the DSC and TPS lights being on.
Got the struts out of the Cooper on the weekend. The drivers side strut spring support does look bent. The passenger side sway bar is bent (That is the side I hit a few weeks ago that started this adventure). The strut mounts seem ok and the strut mount plates I installed 18 months ago look good as well. I already replaced the passenger side lower ball joint and both left and right tie-rods.
Will have things back together with new struts and sway bar links this coming weekend. May replace the strut mounts as well. Is there anyhting else I should look for before I button things up?
Ian
Last edited by ijourneaux; Jul 20, 2020 at 08:31 AM.
Sorry you are correct. Not the sway bar but the sway end links. I can remember hitting pot holes hard enough that my teeth rattled. I have also hit two tires where the side wall was cut. This is in Atlanta. The road are generally ok but when ther eis a pot hole, it is a deep one.
I spent the fall troubleshooting the same issue on mine. Strut had a dent/bend in it inside the mounting sleeve on the knuckle so I wasn't able to see it until I removed the strut (only because I had checked EVERYTHING else).
There's a picture in my build thread for those that are curious
