This is my 2003 PS JCW. Been on the forums for a little while now. Started to get a little deeper into this thing. So I figured it was time for a build thread.

Picked this car up about a year ago drove it for a while then I parked it after it started making a strange sound.

What started as a perceived timing issue turned into a much larger project than I anticipated. All the "while your there" posts I kept reading constantly didn't make it any easier either.

So I put it up on jack stands for the winter, and started going to work.

Here is the "short list" of things I ended up taking care of in service mode.

• Oil Cooler O-rings
  
• Oil Drainback Valve
  
• Timing Chain Tensioner
  
• Camshaft Position Sensor O-ring
  
• MAP Sensor Tube (Idiot broke it)
  
• Stant Thermostat
  
• Felpro Thermostat Gasket
  
• Spark Plugs NGK BKR8EIX (2668)
  
• Supercharger Service
  
• Supercharger Intake Gasket
  
• Supercharger Outlet Gasket
  
• Davies Craig Electric WP Swap
  
• Alta 17% Pulley
  
• Gates Belt K060535
  

The holes in the grille are from the tow bar I removed. Previous owner pulled it behind an RV. Also had to swap in a new HK amp.
I have pictures of the EWP swap I can post later. Gotta find them.

 

 

You said you thought it was a timing issue ? What did it end up being and do you have it up N running yet ?

 

It was the backside of the SC. Who knows how long it had been run dry. When I dismantled it, the needle bearing literally fell apart.

That picture earlier is the car put back together.

 

That's ugly.
How many miles on the car ?

Mike

 

125k it had 116k when I bought it. That stuff was baked on so bad, I needed a scraping tool to get it off.
Thought I was screwed, and needed a rebuild. That's when my electric water pump (EWP) swap happened

 

All that rust colored stuff is baked on oil ?

 

Yup, and metal shavings is my guess. That sound was the WP gears being chewed up.

 

Nice work!

Love the vanity plate.

 

Thanks I appreciate it. Some people can't figure it out at first.

 

This is a parts list of what I needed to do the swap(for the most part). Forgive me if I forget anything. All the important piece are there.

• Davies Craig EWP80(8005)
  
• ICT Billet 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" Barb
  
• Gates Coolant Hose(23378)
  
• Gates Hose(21281)
  
• Gates Hose(21171)
  
• MINI Cooper Coolant Elbow MI-17127515487
  
• MINI Cooper Coolant Connector(64338WM)
  
• Dorman Rad. Hose Conn.(627-006)
  
• Dorman Heat. Hose Conn.(47080)
  
• ¾" Radiator Hose(3ft)
  
• ⅝" Radiator Hose(3ft)
  
• Various Hose Clamps
  

I also replaced numerous other items in my cooling system. I only bought so much hose to have enough to redo all the hoses in the future. Also two multi-pack hose clamps should get you there.

 

Before getting started you will need to get the barb(ICT billet 1 1/4"x1 1/2") welded to the WP flange. Any decent welding shop can do it.

This was the initial fitting.

 

The modified WP flange on the block. Hooked to the stock trimmed lower coolant hose

 

The new hose routing is not very difficult but let me break it down best I can.

The gates hose(21171) gets trimmed. Part of the straight end connects to the lower portion of the EWP and hose connector(Dorman 627-006).Curved portion will be used later. T-fitting(Dorman 627-006) to Gates hose(21281) to lower radiator.

Going up from T-fitting (Dorman627-006) is 3/4" heater hose to connector (Dorman 47080), then 5/8" hose to the coolant tube. I had to replace the 5/8"x3/4" hose coming off the back because it had a Tear in it(Pegasus SR19.16RED).
Now the curved portion of gates hose(21171) will be use on the upper portion of the EWP to MINI coolant connector(64338WM). Off of that is gates hose(23378) to Coolant Elbow(MI-17127515487) going to the block

^^^Final hose fitting(Upper hose to be replaced)

 

Here is some photos of the wiring.

The factory ground was used for the pump.

Instead of using the add-a-circuit like other have. The factory harness was unpinned.

Wired to continue cycling (with fan) after the engine is shut down.

 

When trying to test the EWP, it didn't power on. After troubleshooting a couple connections, I traced it to the electrical connector.

Considering how nice the pump is, I'm surprised (and disappointed) they used the cheapest plug they could. No waterproofing whatsoever, RACECAR!

You can see here where the pin came loose from the connector(sorry for the blurry picture)

 

Outside enjoying the sunshine. Back in service mode to fix that wiring issue on the pump.

This is a the connector I used to test the pump

It's all I had on hand, don't hate

Pinning the thew plug

Huge improvement over the original, this one is waterproof.

Both sides all done.

Some zip tie magic to finish it off

Had to put it in service mode to fix one plug. Gotta love a MINI

 

At least I managed to also swap the grille while I was there. Looking a little better now.

I've been running this EWP setup for a few weeks now. I'm very pleased with how much cooler everything runs inside and out. There were people reporting of increased AC efficiency, and I can definitely confirm. Before I started my AC felt like it desperately needed a recharge. Now it runs great!

 

Taki'n it easy today enjoying the nice weather. going over the parts I've been collecting. Here is what I've got so far

• M7 Oil Catch Can
  
• Gates Idler Pulley
  
• WMW Ignition Wires
  
• OEM Ignition Coil
  
• R56 Calipers
  
• R56 Carrier Bracket/Bolts
  
• R56 Rotors/Pads
  
• R56 Wear Sensors
  
• Upper Rad. Hose
  
• 3 Enkei PF01

Also some other misc. interior parts, fasteners, and a splash shield (missing when I bought the car)
Planning to do the "Poor Man's" JCW brake upgrade. Still need to order my Acroman decals. Only paid $100 for the entire setup. Pads and rotors have a ton of life left.

The wheels are another story. I did get four, but only three are useable. Two of them have some light curb damage. Very minor, the pictures look worse than it actually is

The fourth however is a perfect example of what happens if you zig, when you shoulda zagged. Two of the tires are in great shape (rears is my guess). The front that did survive is fairly worn.

I can't complain they did clean up rather nicely. I ended up with four good center caps, three good wheels, two good tires, and one potential coffee table. Also came with a set of hub rings. Bought the wheels and brakes from the same guy in ATL.

The only thing I did install was the accessory tray. A little surprised by how many parts I had to remove to get to it. The cargo liner as well (matches my front mats). The only thing I had to remove for install was the jack kit. So it doesn't count.

 

Do you still have any of the tow bar hardware?

 

Let me know if you want to sell the S-Lite wheels. I'm a candidate.

 

Back in service mode again. Taking care of a few issues that needed to be addressed

First up was swapping out that upper radiator hose. After being removed, I noticed it was worn down in a few places.
This hose has seen better days


My coolant tube was missing the bolt that holds it in place. So I replaced it with an OEM bolt. No more bouncing around


I wanted to degrease everything, and clean it up before installing the new shield.
However, I noticed a few things while looking around. Apparently my lower engine mount is starting to split on the small end.

The large side isn't doing much better.

There is a piece of the rubber insert missing. I plan to order the Powerflex complete engine bushing kit from WMW. My guess is the other ones can't be too far off.

All cleaned up, and ready to install the splash shield

Pulled the Beru coil and went back to OEM. I was a little concerned with all the horror stories. Also swapped out those blue NGK ignition wires for a set from WMW. That completes my Ignition refresh. Changed my Idler pulley, installed my CS dipstick, and put it back together.

 

Doing transmission things today. Need some level ground to change the oil, in the garage this time. Also going to be installing a Alta adjustable short throw shifter for quality of life improvements
So glad I bought this pump, makes the job so easy. Unfortunately the exhaust bolts had no interest in moving. So I didn't get to the shifter. Gonna soak the bolts in penetrating oil overnight, and try again tomorrow

 

Got the exhaust down but this happened. After spending 20min trying to get that seized stud out, I noticed the exhaust leak.

Now I have to decide between getting it repaired, or deleting the resonator. Don't really want to deal with getting that stud out, leaning toward the delete. Will be installing a 4-2-1 header in the future, don't want it too loud. Any input would be appreciated

Jk nobody reads this thread

 

I read it!

I just don't have any useful input. 😜