My 03 S is in need of a new clutch. It's slipping a bit if I load it up with a lot of revs. I lean towards sticking with the oem dual mass flywheel, but mine does make "the noise" it's a rattly noise that goes away when I press the clutch. I also like the heavier feel of the stock clutch vs my sisters vw which has the lightest clutch pedal I've ever felt. At the same time, the valeo SMF kit is very popular, cheaper than replacing the stock clutch and flywheel, and lighter so hopefully a bit better throttle response.

I've driven an R53 since 2003, this car has 100,000 miles and I pretty much plan to keep it forever, or sell it to my dad. I'm not made of money, but if the best choice is expensive, most things are possible. I've got a CAI, 17% pulley, and a stiffer rear sway bar, but I'm on OEM springs with Koni FSD shocks. The car is mostly a daily driver, but gets an occasional track/auto cross day. (2-3 days a year at most)

So, what do you recommend? replace the oem friction disc? replace both the disc and the flywheel? just go with the valeo?

bonus question. I plan to replace the transmission mount (already did the other engine mounts) rear main seal, throw out bearing, guide tube sleeve, and all the bushings and ball joints on the sub frame (with powerflex). I'm on the fence about replacing the shift cables, and the power steering hoses. Anything else you can think of that's worth doing while I'm there? any thoughts on the shift cables and power steering hoses?

 

Well your first option of going back with stock and a new flywheel sounds like what you actually want in the way of feel and reliability so I can't fault you for that and would say it's a good idea.
We do have affordable kits for that which are original MINI clutches, as the OEM is NOT the same quality as Original MINI.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/stock-...-cooper-s.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/stock-...-cooper-s.html

The valeo kit works and is cost effective, but the downside is like you said your sis VW is the Valeo is just soft and doesn't have mush feel to it.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/valeo-...l-kit-r53.html

Another option we have had good luck with is the stage 2 South Bend kit. It feels very similar to stock, but has more bite and is lighter while not killing the wallet.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/south-...t-r52-r53.html

For sure I'd do the powerflex bushings and then seals like rear main, input shaft, clutch fork bushings and so on while you have it apart. We keep it all in stock too.

 

I went with the Valeo and am pretty happy with it. Always thought the OEM clutch was very heavy and after driving my buddy's R56, I was sold on a lighter clutch.
Also replaced the following when I did mine at 110K:

- Shift fork bushings
- Clutch slave cylinder
- Gearbox input seal
- Rear main seal
- Throwout bearing
- Throwout bearing guide sleeve (though I'm kinda sorry I did. The old one was in great shape and the new one was pricey)
- Inner and outer ball joints
- P/S hoses (mine were leaking quite badly) and replacements were cheap as chips (relatively)
- LCA bushings. I went with powerflex but to be honest haven't noticed too much of a difference (I don't track the car)
- Swaybar bushings
- Lower engine mount

I did not do the shift cables (mine were in good shape).

 

Thanks for the info, I'm definitely intrigued by the southbend clutch kit.

My shifting right now is fine, but I feel like there's a little play in the shifter when it's in neutral. Like when I wiggle it side to side there's a bit of free play before I hit any resistance. I also feel more resistance going towards the 5/6 side than the 1/2 side. After 17 years and 100,000 miles it's not inconcievable that a bushing or ball joint would develop some play. I'm just not sure how much easier the job is with the transmission out.

 

My shift cables are still decent at 15 years and 120k. Most of my play is coming from a small plastic bushing in the shift linkages on the outside of the gearbox. New one is 15$ and only 2 bolts to replace. Want to do while the trans is out.

you could go either way on trans input seal and rear main. Mine were both fine so I said better let sleeping dogs lie. Some people feel better to do while you are in there. I think both are fair approaches.

Everything else is good advice IMO.