When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Car was making what I can best describe as a grinding noise. Thought that the supercharger might have been low on oil causing the sound. Just finished doing a service on the supercharger and replaced water pump at the same time. Car has 61000 miles on it. Unfortunately the noise hasn't gone away. Was hoping for some guidance. Could the supercharger be bad at only 61000 miles? Or possibly the tensioner? Hard to pinpoint exact location. More seems above intercooler and towards the belt tensioner. I have tried to included a video but it says invalid url. Thanks all.
https://youtu.be/G1ADFDSimJc.
here's a link
It could be your crank pulley starting to separate. Before mine went, it was rubbing on the block and making a grinding noise. I had no idea what it was at the time. When it finally came off, it took out the boot on the passenger side drive shaft. Luckily it happened at low speed. Could have been much worse.
Not saying this is the issue, but also check the balancer pulley. Mine came apart but I could not see it, just hear it. I finally saw it when I focused on it. Car would start and run but made a racket. Lots of crazy lights on the dash too!
Well after replacing what I and apparently other thought was a bad supercharger, I guess I was wrong. Noise is still here. Idle pulley is new, supercharger is now new, next guess would be crank pulley I assume. This car loves to screw with me.
I did run the car without a belt to check for any internal noise. Which there was none. Ac compressor was replaced last winter as well as alternator. Of course it's the last thing to be replaced
Also check the belt tensioner damper. I listened to your video a couple times, mine had a similar sound when the rear bushing disintegrated.
Regardless, on another note replace the crank pulley - preferably with a PRW or ATI - anyway; these things can go anytime leaving you stranded and are a major weak point in these cars. Mine died at 55K with normal driving (no track days).
Also check the belt tensioner damper. I listened to your video a couple times, mine had a similar sound when the rear bushing disintegrated.
Regardless, on another note replace the crank pulley - preferably with a PRW or ATI - anyway; these things can go anytime leaving you stranded and are a major weak point in these cars. Mine died at 55K with normal driving (no track days).
I have PRW on order as we speak. I just hope that resolves the issue. I hate throwing parts at a car and still having issues.
I have PRW on order as we speak. I just hope that resolves the issue.
Even if it doesn't, at least you won't ever have to contend with the much uglier situation of the factory pulley inevitably failing.
I hate throwing parts at a car and still having issues.
We all do. That's why we come here.
Forgot to mention I found the belt tensioner damper rattling on the mounting bolt visually; it was that obvious, and when I grabbed the end of it the noise went away instantly. For once a problem that doesn't require ISTA+ to diagnose and a special tool to repair.
After replacing the supercharger with the 17% pulley, spark plugs, and new belt, I've actually lost a ton of low end power. Disassembled to maybe, hopefully find a vacuum line or something obvious, no luck. Now service engine soon light one. Waiting for crank damper, hopefully find something then.
Maybe a stick of dynamite and end the misery
After replacing the supercharger with the 17% pulley, spark plugs, and new belt, I've actually lost a ton of low end power. Disassembled to maybe, hopefully find a vacuum line or something obvious, no luck. Now service engine soon light one. Waiting for crank damper, hopefully find something then.
Maybe a stick of dynamite and end the misery
no codes, after 2 days of driving around the service engine soon light went out. Car is to be disassembled tonight, for the fourth time, and begin the process over again. Crank damper should be here tomorrow
My crank as it was failing had the same noise . I'm too replacing mine as we speak. It would explain your power loss . Also you may be losing power with that 17% pulley from heat soak . I've read alot about some cars loving and some hating the 17% pulley .
do you have an intake and exhaust ? If not I would not be running a 17% pulley .
My crank as it was failing had the same noise . I'm too replacing mine as we speak. It would explain your power loss . Also you may be losing power with that 17% pulley from heat soak . I've read alot about some cars loving and some hating the 17% pulley .
do you have an intake and exhaust ? If not I would not be running a 17% pulley .
also with my crank being bad the noise was much worse at idle and I could hear it clearly for a second as I shut off the engine . Lol here's my pulley ..I'm going to go try and pull it off now. Wish me luck!
My crank as it was failing had the same noise . I'm too replacing mine as we speak. It would explain your power loss . Also you may be losing power with that 17% pulley from heat soak . I've read alot about some cars loving and some hating the 17% pulley .
do you have an intake and exhaust ? If not I would not be running a 17% pulley .
also with my crank being bad the noise was much worse at idle and I could hear it clearly for a second as I shut off the engine . Lol here's my pulley ..I'm going to go try and pull it off now. Wish me luck!
I sold it to him and there is a ton of mis information here. It sucks having to go around and correct people so I just wont anymore. The heat comes from living near redline. After talking with him before selling him my old blower he does not drive that way. The real likelihood is the crank pulley likely is shot and allowing belt slippage. I drive a extremely modified r53 bvh tvs 900 Link g4 ecu etc. While the 17% does create more heat up top in normal driving it does not do this. What does a intake and exhaust have anything to do with a pulley? He was running the stock pulley and when I sold him the blower I was nice and left the 17% on. Maybe I shouldn't have? When he installed my setup it likely created more strain on the belt path which made the crank even worse and slipped harder hence even less power.
I sold it to him and there is a ton of mis information here. It sucks having to go around and correct people so I just wont anymore. The heat comes from living near redline. After talking with him before selling him my old blower he does not drive that way. The real likelihood is the crank pulley likely is shot and allowing belt slippage. I drive a extremely modified r53 bvh tvs 900 Link g4 ecu etc. While the 17% does create more heat up top in normal driving it does not do this. What does a intake and exhaust have anything to do with a pulley? He was running the stock pulley and when I sold him the blower I was nice and left the 17% on. Maybe I shouldn't have? When he installed my setup it likely created more strain on the belt path which made the crank even worse and slipped harder hence even less power.
it DEFINITELY isn't an issue with what I purchased from you. I hope that wasn't how it came across. It's been a lot of misdiagnosis from me. I believe the pulley was bad to begin with and I didn't diagnose it correctly. Nice new tight belt probably helped show the real problem. This was all on me and nobody else. I really appreciate what you did for me.
it DEFINITELY isn't an issue with what I purchased from you. I hope that wasn't how it came across. It's been a lot of misdiagnosis from me. I believe the pulley was bad to begin with and I didn't diagnose it correctly. Nice new tight belt probably helped show the real problem. This was all on me and nobody else. I really appreciate what you did for me.
I think he was saying I was wrong .only reason I said that because on my sc Thunderbird I had I went down in pulley and I saw more boost but made less power due to iats getting much too hot and it pulling alot of timing .
I've just always been told if I'm upping the boost so much on a stock car I better have a better flowing intake and exhaust to make up for the increased flow.but I've always had exhaust and an intake 1st so I guess I cant say from 1st hand experience .
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Mar 22, 2020 at 09:16 PM.
I sold it to him and there is a ton of mis information here. It sucks having to go around and correct people so I just wont anymore. The heat comes from living near redline. After talking with him before selling him my old blower he does not drive that way. The real likelihood is the crank pulley likely is shot and allowing belt slippage. I drive a extremely modified r53 bvh tvs 900 Link g4 ecu etc. While the 17% does create more heat up top in normal driving it does not do this. What does a intake and exhaust have anything to do with a pulley? He was running the stock pulley and when I sold him the blower I was nice and left the 17% on. Maybe I shouldn't have? When he installed my setup it likely created more strain on the belt path which made the crank even worse and slipped harder hence even less power.
exactly, your is much more modified. How does a stock or near stock car handle a 17% pulley upgrade with none or next to no corresponding mods ?
exactly, your is much more modified. How does a stock or near stock car handle a 17% pulley upgrade with none or next to no corresponding mods ?
Fine. I had ran one for sometime. Stop reading threads from back in 03-04 when all it was bollocks info. Same as it would a 15% you need to understand what it does and its always not adding more boost. It shifts the window it comes on at. Will it add some? Dependable on how good your stock head is compression leak down etc. If you live at redline sure its bad. But for day to day it just brings it on sooner and if you do see 1psi at most difference it will be at redline or above. Stock redline I believe is 6700
Fine. I had ran one for sometime. Stop reading threads from back in 03-04 when all it was bollocks info. Same as it would a 15% you need to understand what it does and its always not adding more boost. It shifts the window it comes on at. Will it add some? Dependable on how good your stock head is compression leak down etc. If you live at redline sure its bad. But for day to day it just brings it on sooner and if you do see 1psi at most difference it will be at redline or above. Stock redline I believe is 6700
I think you were correct in me reading old dated info..now that theyve been thoroughly ran n tested I'm sure consensus has changed on things...I wish mods would delete old threads when newer ones popped up with better info to get rid of misinformation that seems to litter the interweb