So I've been wondering what rear brake lines would cost at the dealer, just to justify the aggravation it was to replace them. I inquired on another thread and got the response below. Basically $2200 and that was 5 years ago!

So I would say it was worth the effort.
robj

Wow!!! Thanks for looking and sharing that. I've been wondering what it would cost. It's probably $2500 today. I feel a lot better about my investment in time and effort at that price. The materials were about $50. A coil of tube and a few fittings.

Thanks again,
robj

 

Big savings . bet it’s much more now...especially the mini dealers around here (Houston)

 

About to do this job myself for the very same reason you did - won't pass the MD state inspection. My lines aren't bad at all, just a little rust mainly where they clip into the plastic clips, but enough to make them fail.

At any rate, thanks for documenting the process - all very helpful information. I might snap a few pictures as I tackle it.

 

Gknorr,

I hope my thread on this helps. I think it helped to set up a piece of plywood to bend the lines to match instead of rolling around on the floor.
Just take your time and walk away when you start to get frustrated, [and you will get frustrated]. But it's doable and $50 compared to $2500, it's worth the effort.

robj

 

Got the new lines in! Took about a day or so. Not an easy job, but everything went smoothly. A few tips:

1. To keep fluid from leaking out while you have the lines open, use some 2x4s or similar to press down the brake pedal a little. Hat tip to the Bentley for this one.



2. The left rear line is pretty straightforward. The tricky one is the right rear. I removed the catback and exhaust shielding to give more access, however, the parking brake lines are still in the way. You could remove them too, or you will have to bend the lines to remove and reinstall like I did. Here is what the bent line looked like after taking it out. I matched the lines by gradually gaff taping them together as I made the bends. I tried various tools for the bends, but in the end, just sockets and my hands seemed to work best on this NiCopp line. The taping as you go method work really well - the new lines were nearly the perfect length and just needed a little bending on the car.


3. When removing, take the front connections off first, and when re-installing, install the back connections first. You'll have to loosen a few of the rear bolts on the front subframe to slide the lines in. Don't forget to loosen the bolt near on the control arm bushing brackets, and you might have to lower the bolts on both sides. A pry bar is helpful to open up just enough room to slide the new lines in.



4. If you use the cheaper bubble flare tool like I did, be sure to use anti-seize or lubricant on the die. I was a little worried about using this tool based on bad reviews saying it marred the flare surface and didn't make good flares, but I had no problems getting good flares using anti-seize on the die. Making sure your tubing is reamed/deburred and smooth at the end is really important. I used a pipe reamer/deburring tool and got the best results using sandpaper after that.


Here is everything I used:

• 25' 3/16" NiCopp Brake Line
• 3 - M10x1.0 Bubble flare male fittings
• 1 - M12x1.0 Bubble flare male fitting
• 1 - M10x1.0 Bubble flare union fitting
• 1 - M12x1.0 Bubble flare union fitting
• Bubble Flare Tool
• Cooper Anti-seize
• New exhaust flange gasket
• DOT4 Brake Fluid
• Set of flare nut wrenches (highly recommended, some of the fittings can be pretty stuck)
• 2x4s to press the clutch pedal down a little.
• Gaff tape
• Pipe cutter
• Pipe reamer/deburring tool (and sandpaper to smooth the edge too)
• Motive Bleeder Tool
• AeroKroil to help loosen anything rusty.

I'll post some before and after pics in my next post.

 

Here is an idea of what the lines looked like. Mainly rusting near the plastic clips. These probably had a number of years left before they'd leak, but I can't blame them for failing the safety inspection for it. Not nearly as bad as some other rusty lines I've seen posted here on NAM!






Here are the new lines:

It was the Harbor Freight tube bending tool that left those small divots in the pipe, so I eventually decided to not use them and just use a socket to press against for making the bends.



Not perfect on these bends, but good enough!








This is the trickiest spot. Up and over the exhaust and parking brake lines, and then through the fuel and vacuum lines. I did unclip these, but still had to do some bending to get everything in place.



You'll have to unclip these two vacuum lines.

 

excellent thread. thank you for the additions, gknorr. and of course to the OP