I went to do my first oil change and this is what I found. I have seen alot of things but nothing like this. I just soaked it in Kroil and guess that I have no real option but to see if someone previously turned the plug with vice grips like I am about to do. There is some meat left, but I am willing to be that vice grips will likely destroy it.

Bought from a dealer a few months ago as is...no real recourse.

What should I do here? Plug isn't leaking. Should I join the ranks of those who change their oil from the top?





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Try an extractor. Then install a Fumoto and never worry again.

 

You mean an extractor like an easy out? If so, I have had some luck with them but more often than no luck. Vice Grips did nothing by the way.

 

this is what I am doing the next time I do an oil change. Have one on my truck for the last 6 years, what a pleasure!

 

An oil extractor makes a lot of sense for these cars IMO. Filter is on the top, so no messing around with ramps or jack stands.

I’ve owned a number of MINIs and have always drained from below......that said, when I bought a project r53 last spring and found the drain bolt seized, I pulled out the oil extractor that I bought years ago for use on my diesel VWs......it worked great on the r53. I bought a fumoto to have ready whenever I decide to try getting the plug out, but the topside method works great.

id say go ahead and try to remove the bolt.....if you fail, either take it to a garage to have them try to weld a nut to it and get it out.....or just buy an oil extractor and go that route from now on.

 

special extractor sockets ... these are IRWIN brand. They have 'teeth' and reverse pitch so you tap them on to get started then they dig in. Bought this set after my first experience with a stuck bung on a GEN1 MINI. And concur ... go FUMOTO once you get the old one out. For the record the bung in the GEN1 is a one time use item ... should be replaced with NEW each change .....

Yours is SO messed up the welded socket/nut might be the only option tho. Good news it the Bung IS mild steel so one quick stab with a mig gun and you should be good to go.

taking a second look at your picture ... I'm not even sure that's an OE plug . . .

messed up one on the left I got out with extractor shown ... good as new on the right

 

Yiks, wow that's bad. +1 on that extractors to get it out and then flip over to fumoto.

 

Looks like in the one picture...that there's plenty of plug left to weld a nut onto the piece sticking out, then a wrench from there.
Get a nut that the id will fit around the piece sticking out. If you can't weld it, find someone that will weld (MIG or TIG) the nut in place. Then go home and carefully unwind it.

Good luck.

Mike

 

I'd just drill a hole through the side and put a strong nail or bolt and turn it out. Old fashioned and cheap method.

 

pardon the pun!

 

You got it

 

If it were me.. I'd be taking that back to the dealership with the expectation they make it right.. there is absolutely no reason that should have EVER left a dealers lot in that condition.. If the dealer has ANY integrity, they'll make it right...

 

to get to this




from this (see right)



suggests someone went at it with a grinder or more (all tho the edges look pretty clean)

that's not simply the result of the wrong wrench . . .

btw to any NEW readers on this topic. NOTE: the proper size wrench for a GEN1 bung is 1/2 inch ..... everything you'll read says a metric size but if you trust me and TRY .... 1/2 inch



that's a GEN1 MINI bung in a 1/2 inch box .... notice NO PLAY .... SNUG FIT ..... there are those that say the problem is a 6 point socket vs a 12 point and I agree a 6 point metric MIGHT get away with the sloppy fit ... but the evidence is clear if you try both .... 1/2 inch fits best

 

To be fair, there is some support for the theory that these plugs self-tighten over time, something about the choice of metals and the washer. I had to take mine back to the dealer once and made them remove it, and that's about the last time I let them touch my car.

 

self-tighten over time

really??????

there is a valid issue with the plastic seal sticking and then using the documented metric size socket to remove the stuck bung

answer ...... use the correct wrench/socket ... and do not reuse the plastic seal on the bung

been servicing these beasts in my garage since I bought my first in 2002 .....

 

Use he correct wrench and do NOT over tighten. Snug it up just enough so there are no leaks, and your good to go. No need to crank it down like a gorilla.

 

What is this method? Could you expand? I have a cheapo harbor freight flux core welder I could try to tack a nut on with. I am a bit scared of fire though. Anything that can catch fire down there if I clean the pan up?

I have a set of extractors like that but not enough meat....not nearly the meat it shows in that pic.

What about a quality set of easy outs or a left hand drill bit.

Also wondering about jamming a nut on there as suggested.

 

Drill a hole from the side of the protruding stub, formerly known as the head. Insert rod, bolt or something strong and turn the bolt with some pliers gripped on the new handle you created. Always worked the few times I had to do it.

Good luck.

 

That is genius. I wish that there was enough meat. The pic is lying. I will try this though.

 

For pics, Google safety wiring bolts, that is where I got the idea from years ago.

 

Mine tore up as well. I had to use a pipe wrench on it to remove. I installed a Fumoto F106N FN-Series Drain Valve with Long Nipple with Lever Clip.

 

Looking at the amount of oil on and around your pan, the oil pan gasket or crank position sensor "o" ring could be leaking.

 

Wow. I'd punch the guy that changed your oil last. But since that's no solution, if there's truly not enough left to grab with vise grips (which is my next-to-last-ditch method) I'd file or grind the stub completely smooth and find center, drill to the largest easy-out (square-type works best) and crank it out. Welding works sometimes, but you've got a plastic sealing washer that's likely to melt, possibly creating more problems

 

Always match the wrench to the head of the bolt. 6 side for 6 sided bolt. And 12 side for 12 sided bolt. There is more contact on the bolt head with the correct wrench.

 

Thanks everyone.