I had to get the mini out of the way so I ran it without coolant/radiator/condenser/radiator fan/front clip for around 30 seconds then shut it down. I have done this on countless cars without issue. Not even close to having the opportunity to overheat.

I notice that there is no PS assist any more.

What might have gone wrong? Thanks

 

It may be as simple as making sure any codes are reset
Also check that a fuse didn't coincidentally blow.

Honestly, I've simply had the power steering pump work on one start, not work on another, then work on restart, without doing anything else at all.

 

Will try after putting everything back together again. Will check and reset codes. I hope that I didn't wreck anything. I'd expect a wrecked cylinder head long before the PS system.

 

That may be a sign that the power steering pump is starting to fail. It was happening in my '06 R52, and not long afterwards it failed completely. The 1st gen power steering pump is prone to failure because its electric motor isn't brushless, and there was even an NHTSA safety recall on it.

 

Yup, already had it replaced under the recall, and yes that was one of the symptoms.
While it still happens, it's not very often at all.

 

So thinking aloud here; if the issue is in the lack of a brushless motor, what's stopping one of us from sourcing a suitable industrial replacement and figuring out a DIY swap? I'd expect a motor of such requirements to be under $100, and with some basic soldering skills (ie knowing enough to flux joints first), I can't see the unit as wildly complicated.

Anyone else have their 2c to add here? My car is all apart so it wouldn't be impossible to pull the components to get specification measurements. I'll likely be rebuilding all the suspension and steering components next winter, so if there's a means to make this no longer an issue, I'm interested in some backyard R&D to sort this out.

Edit: Also, to adjust the weight on the PS system, that would be easily adjusted in % increments via modulation (selection) of overall motor output vs the stock unit. 10% more amperage (used; based on the coil) should result in a lighter feel, for instance.

Alternatively, how often do folks just delete the PS system entirely by either looping the fluid inlet / outlet, or is there a manual / mechanical rack in the BMW parts bin that swaps over? These cars are like 2500lbs... they don't need PS...

 

A few people do it. There's even a power steering delete kit being sold. Not being designed for manual steering, there's going to be a lot more force required at the wheel in parking lot situations.

The last non-PS car I had was an '83 RX-7. It was a little heavier than a MINI and ran on 185 width tires. You either had to have strong arms, or get it moving a little before trying to turn the wheel.

 

It's a fool's game to bother without slipping the clutch a smidge to produce a cm of movement or so to break friction. :laugh: I've had a bunch of cars with manual and looped PS racks. Nothing over 3000lbs curb weight though, or with a greater than 225mm / 300tw tire (it'd take a pretty peppy Mini to require 225's; at least 220whp I'd say.).

I think I'm going to look into that kit. Making a loop kit costs about $25 tops (assuming you need to buy cheap tools for the job as well), so long as the information on required flare type is available. Older (but still watercooled) VWs use a double-bubble flare and it's a rather specialty sort of thing. Still completely possible, fairly common, and really nice compared to mushy PS. Manual racks with Quaife short R&P kits though... mmmm.

 

Check FL100 under the fuse box in the engine bay. There's a resource on mini2 or one of the other sites called "fuses, relays, and earth points" that's a great resource.

 

Thanks...this ended up being a different problem that I ended up making a repost on since multiple symptoms joined this one. Alternator pushing out 18 VDC at around 1200 RPM+