In the process of doing clutch on my 05 R50 and doing the rear lower front control arm bushings while I'm at it. Using the Powerflex bushings. One side's a arm bushing installed with zero issues. The other side's black bushing is pressed into the housing. However when I install the the control arm with the inner bushing into it, the inner (purple) bushing doesnt want to move freely inside the black one. It also takes considerably more pressure to push it in. The control arm will rotate, but the control arm is rotating inside of the inner bushing overcoming the hexagon cutouts of the inner bushing made to fit the corresponding shape on the control arm. Its like the interference fit of the outer and inner control bushing is too tight.

I've rechecked the outer black bushing multiple times in the housing to ensure that it is fulling pressed in with both lips of the bushing seated on the corresponding sides of the housing. Also used the provided PTFE/Silicon grease. What am I am missing?

Any help or insight appreciated!

Stock internet photo of the bushing for clarification. The purple inner with the hexagon shape is not moving in the black outer bushing. The control arm is actually skipping over the notch of the hexagon to move.

 

No advise other than make sure the bracket bushing is inserted corrected, not backwards, and make sure there is no pinching.

 

 

Hi, having just replaced my LCA bushes with new poly-bushes, I didn't have this problem at all - plenty of other problems but thankfully not this one.
However, what I did notice was that the driver's side bushing was a noticeably tighter fit to squeeze in than the other side.
I used plenty of (general purpose) grease on the outer surface of the inner piece (yours is purple, but mine is black), into which the hexagonal LCA shaft fits.
I am assuming that you didn't grease the hexagonal shaft of the LCA as you inserted it into the inner bushing. Did this hexagonal shaft slide into the bushing easily ?

 

I used a trigger style clamp to squeeze the control arm into the bushing. Like this one: Trigger Clamp

 

Sorry, I put this project aside this past week trying to get ready for Christmas. Thanks for all the feedback thus far.

Outer bushing is definitely installed correctly and fully seated. Used the provided grease on the inner surface of the outer black bushing that contacts the inner purple bushing per instructions. . No grease was used on the control arm itself and the inner purple bushing slid on to control arm with no problem. But that inner purple bushing is not rotating freely inside of the black bushing regardless if its slid onto the control arm or not (I've experimented with it off and on the control arm). For what ever reason, this side is a lot tighter fit between the two bushing parts (inner purple and black outer) resulting the in the control rotating inside of the purple inner bushing.

Other side works perfectly.

Spoke with the good folks at PowerFlex this am and they are going to send a replacement bushing for this side. They were very responsive. In the back of my head I though that perhaps once the control arm is loaded by the weight of the car it might overcome friction between the two parts of the bushing. If it didnt however, that inner bushing would fail in short order IMO. The agent at Powerflex thought it better to try a replacement.

Will cut out the problem side and reinstall the replacement bushing and post results after it arrives.

 

Just wanted to follow up on this thread. Got busy with Christmas and the New Year holidays, so just finished up the clutch replacement today.

I want to say thank you to Power Flex. They sent a single side bushing set as a replacement with no questions asked and shipped promptly. The new bushing went in without a hitch and the inner bushing rotated properly, the hexagonal shaft of the lower control arm did not rotate inside of the purple inner bushing. While I am not sure why only one side of the original kit had the issue, I am happy and very satisfied with the Power Flex product and customer support.

The bushings were not intended as a performance upgrade (though I am sure they), they were installed as an OEM one failed with such low miles. Less then 50k miles when it started to degrade. Hoping to get more miles out of the poly bushings and not have to open up the front end of my Mini for some time.

Speaking of time, I fully understand why the book hours are so extensive at shops for this clutch job now. I'm a fairly experienced amateur mechanic, but this took me a full two days with all the proper tools and an extra set of hands. Certainly more time than many other cars I've done. But I enjoy the hell out of this "economical" commuter car. Might not have the shear thrust, but a lot of fun to drive regardless. Right up there with some Porsches I've owned over the years.

 

 

 

Sprauge54

I dont think Jfrantz used the trigger clamp to install the bushing, but to reinstall the control arm into the bushing housing after he had already pressed the bushing into the housing (he can correct me if I am wrong.) This project might not be someone for who doesnt have good tools or some experience as it could quickly turn into a penny wise and pound foolish endeavor.

If you leave the subframe on and attempt from under the car, you will at least need a Torque Wrench, Ball Joint Separator, SawZall, and buy or make a tool to press the bushings in addition to your normal jack and stands. Its very likely you may need a breaker bar, impact wrench, torch, and penetrating oil, especially if your car has spent time in winters (my car came from Minnesota.) If you dont have these or access to them, I wouldnt attempt this project.

I had the luxury of doing these on my bench in plain view and can say that they dont just pop in. They may want to twist or angle off as you push them in even with a press. Had to stop a few times and make a number of adjustments before they went in straight. That process could be a hurdle or source real frustration if doing under the car on your back. I did experiment with the threaded rod once before putting into my horizontal press. If you go this route, use the largest diameter threaded rod that will fit through the bushing and lube the bushing mount liberally to help ease the busing into place (I have tire mounting lube in my garage.) The only rod I had in my garage was 1/4" or 3/8" and it bent as the bushing twisted, so I stopped before it made contact with the bushing (didnt want to abrade inner surface of the busing.). I suspect a 3/4" rod might be perfect. Might even consider welding a collar on to the washer to keep the bushing from twisting.

Not be negative or try to talk you out of doing the project, we all have to start somewhere and nothing like experience to learn. Just be realistic with what you have and your experience. If you have an indy shop that is willing to cut out the bushing and install without dropping the subframe and bill accordingly, it might be your best option if its too much to tackle. Its not a technically hard project, but its also not an easy project if that makes sense.

Good luck!

 

I have had recent experience with doing the LCA bushes on my 2006 R53, with subframe still in place, manual 12 inch hacksaw, laying flat on my back with basic tools and a lot of improvization and even more tenacity. Also helps if you have strong shoulders ! It is not a job for everyone and there were many challenges along the way. However, as tough as it was, it is not impossible and the satisfaction of knowing I did it myself is in equal measure. I have put up a build thread here which goes into more detail on the challenges and solutions, which I hope others might find helpful.

 

I did not remove the subframe. I was replacing the ball joints too so the control arm was completely loose. One end of the trigger clamp was placed in the hole within the control arm and the other end of the clamp on the rear side of the bushing carrier. It was so tight that I don't think I could have done it any other way on the car.

If I had to do it again, and I were also replacing ball joints and such, I'd probably drop the subframe. Doing it while lying under the car was not optimal.

-Jeff

 

Captain.Olives is correct. I used the Bavarian Autosport control arm bushing tool to extract the old bushing and insert the new PowerFlex bushing. The trigger clamp was only to push the control arm into the PowerFlex bushing. The control arm bushing tool is well worth the $75. Tool link: https://www.bavauto.com/catalogsearc...lt/?q=B8800078

 

Yes agreed - bushing tool would have been nice - but getting the control arm with new bushing over the hexagonal section, back into the new outer bushing inside the carrier is hard too.
After a lot of head scratching, I did it by inserting the inner ball joint into its LCA hole, with the LCA inserted as far as possible into the rear carrier - and also inserting the bolt nearest the front side with a few turns only. The LCA is then pushed inwards and 'hey presto' the inner bush is forced all the way in - at which point I inserted the other bolt for the inner ball joint and tightened them all. Such a nice feeling when it finally seated in place.