Not sure if anyone has pulled it off. You have to use the chrono/speedo from donor car and still other hoops to jump through. The chrono pack looks great (I have two cars with it and one with nav) but some values are interpreted and not gained through an actual sensor. I know there are programs to pull info from the OBDII system and display them as guages on the nav unit but dont know names of them off the top of my head. That might be an easier route to take if you are looking for info versus the chrono look

 

Yes, the issue is that donor gauge is not coded to your car and therefore the ECU will not see it.

 

Also I think that both speedo and ECU store the cars mileage so replacing the speedo and not the ECU will cause problems (or is that taken care of by coding). I have not seen a complete successful swap during my time in this forum :(

 

 

I'm also looking to remove my stock nav unit and replace it with a setup like this gauge pack for essential information. I can't find if this is plug and play or not. Does anyone have anymore information?



Thanks

JTS

 

Just swap the nav with an android unit and use an app like torque

 

@ Gtech12v, that looks cool, but a quick search shows this is NOT for an R53. Or did you source a version an R50/52/53?

 

Check this out

 

 

 

I'm honestly not sure what the point of the chrono pack is since the car doesn't have true oil temp or pressure senders.

 

It because the Nav system is worth nothing, as is the idiot oil light. The chrono pack has temp and a good fuel gauge. The oil, although computer generated, is no different then any but the mechanical gauges. The oil temp is an indicator of possible trouble and an early warning! Does this make it pointless? Not to me!
I further like the tach and speedo by the wheel.

 

But that’s my point... the oil temp and pressure gauges in the chrono pack aren’t real. They’re just the computer guessing at what the values are based on other sensors in the car. It’s not directly measuring oil temp or pressure, so they aren’t any better than the idiot lights. Or at least that’s my understanding after trying to find actual transducers and failing.

The sensor in the housing for oil pressure seems to just be a switch, and there isn’t a temp sensor anywhere as far as I know, unless you have the auxiliary gauge pack with the drain plug sender.

 

It's most definitely NOT plug and play. I'm not smart enough to provide a technical explanation, but it has to do with the computer in the NAV/Chrono unit storing info for other parts of the car's operation (odometer, among other things). You can plug pretty easily, but play causes errors, warning lights, etc.

From my research, many have tried, but no one has successfully accomplished the swap. I wish we had a good plug and play option, because I despise the NAV in my car.

 

+1

 

Right,ECU software have a map named "Linearisation table for oil temperature sent to dashboard" Id map is "ip_can_toil__toil_mdl".

Oil temp map

 

It's nice to have my suspicions about the oil temp confirmed. I've been considering installing an aeroforce gauge with at minimum a physical oil pressure sender to make up for the lack of real gauges. The aeroforce should be able to read actual coolant temp from the ECU via the OBDII port.

 

This is a prime example of SW engineers went rogue. I like how they called it linearization . ?There ought to be a similar map for the made believe oil pressure too.

MINI isn't the only company that do this. Miata and even some American SUV and trucks have these useless gauges.

 

Sometimes they're joking,look what I found in an old BMW file,at the end of dump.

 

Just remember this: Factory gauges are more of an indicator that something is working, but factory gauges are rarely accurate. The speedo is only close, the tach is only close, the temp gauge is only close, but so many people on this site seem to feel the oil pressure gauge is not good, because it is only close too! If it is moving around, it is "indicating" oil pressure, because it moves around, we should take comfort that oil is circulating and in my book, that is a good thing!
Note: If you are truly that paranoid, you should install an auxiliary oil pressure gauge. Be prepared to spend a lot to know the exact pressures, because those aftermarket oil gauges in general are only close too!
I just don't understand why so many are hung up on this!

Side note: The red idiot light for oil pressure on most cars come on way after the damage is already done. The gauge however inaccurate, shows the oil is moving! It does not matter that the pressure is read by the ecu!

 

Greetings to all.

I've been following this thread closely, as I too would like to swap out my Nav to the Chrono. But....perhaps adding a temp gauge would relieve my own paranoia. I would never want to hijack a thread...but how would I know if my 2005 MCS were running hot? I inquired with my service advisor,....he just chuckled and said...... "you will know".


Not a good enough answer.


Carry on,

Mark

 

I'm not sure what you are trying to say, the r53 oil pressure gauge is 100 % fake, there is an idiot light that turns on when there is zero oil pressure, it is fed by the switch on the back of the oil filter housing

 

You’re comparing apples and oranges here. The speedo and tach are actually very accurate (Well, there is a 5 kph static offset for the speedometer in my car because it’s German - assume other minis are the same). The ECU reads those values directly.

The coolant temp gauge in the standard center speedometer doesn’t give any real values. The computer sticks it smack dab in the center if it’s within normal operating ranges and moves it off center if it’s either too cold or too hot, but it does know the actual value at the sensor, even if it doesn’t tell you.

The oil pressure gauge in the chrono pack is different though. The fact that it’s moving around is the same as the light being off because the ECU doesn’t know the pressure. The only time the ECU knows to make the gauge read low is when the oil pressure switch trips, which is the same as the light coming on. It doesn’t give you any more info than the idiot light.

 

It is amazing that we even need a debate on the difference between a real oil pressure and oil temperature gauge versus the artificial ones that is created by a on/off circa 4 PSI pressure switch in conjunction of the ***-u-me inference (via software magic ) using the coolant temperature sensor reading. I have a hard time coming up with an analogy that he would understand, but let me try.

You are feeling out of breath and barely can take a few steps, so you go see you doctor. He felt your pulse and as soon as he confirmed you have one, he signed you a clean bill of health saying that your vital sign is no different form a young and fit athlete and should be able to summit Mt. Everett.

No one here is hung up on 5% or 10% accuracy. There is a huge difference between knowing you have more than 4 PSI when your are imposing 90% load on the engine versus knowing there is more than say 25 PSI. If the infamous oil drain back valve is dislodged there is a very good chance the oil pressure switch will not alert you to that fatal failure before it is too late.

You can pick up an American made mechanical oil pressure gauge for $75 and it will never lie to you. You don't need to know oil pressure or temperature within 10% accuracy and these gauges are quite capable of it.