When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hydraulic handbrakes have a master cylinder on the handbrake assembly.
Why go to hydraulic, this is usually something rear wheel drive guys do to help initiate drifts?
I realize that...that's why I'm questioning if I need the dual master setup and what bore size.
I'm looking at this one:
I need it for 2 reasons. One is that I've had to tighten mine 3x in the last year so it clearly wasn't designed for handbrake turns in the dirt when you have tires that give a lot of traction (not only RWD drift guys want to rotate their cars using the rear wheels).
The second reason is that my arm hits the side of the race seat before the handbrake fully engages.
I swear I read that we HAD to have the dual setup just can't recall where it was...
Did you ever get an answer on this one? Im trying to do the hydraulic handbrake myself. Also wondering if it matters what rear brake system I have.
Didn't get an answer but have somewhat worked it out.
I ended up buying that one in the pic, with two .625 cylinders. Connected into the ABS box, ran two lines to the handbrake and then out to the rear wheels. Then I couldn't for the life of me bleed them...did every single trick that anyone on the Internet has ever recommended and nothing. It would almost work but would feel like it was jammed solid.
After about a year of messing with it off/on I called Murray Motorsports where I'd bought the gear and they put one of their people on and we worked through it. I love those guys and they once again amazed me with their support. After describing how it was behaving he guessed it was most likely bled and connected properly, so it may be 'effort' related and recommended going with a single cylinder setup. He said with dual cylinders, hard brake pads, and gravel tires I'd probably need a bigger lever [and bigger arms] than I have. :-)
So I bought a single one...was able to use one of my original .625 cylinders (the other one blew the piston out of the front of it during a rallyx, lol), and just capped one of the outlets from the ABS box and used the other. Then put in a 'T' on the output side to go to the brakes. It still requires more effort than I like...not sure what else I can do, possibly different size cylinder. Not sure.
And I can't go back to using my ABS now...but half the time I'd forget to plug the wheel speed sensor back in anyway...she's old school now. :-)
Didn't get an answer but have somewhat worked it out.
I ended up buying that one in the pic, with two .625 cylinders. Connected into the ABS box, ran two lines to the handbrake and then out to the rear wheels. Then I couldn't for the life of me bleed them...did every single trick that anyone on the Internet has ever recommended and nothing. It would almost work but would feel like it was jammed solid.
After about a year of messing with it off/on I called Murray Motorsports where I'd bought the gear and they put one of their people on and we worked through it. I love those guys and they once again amazed me with their support. After describing how it was behaving he guessed it was most likely bled and connected properly, so it may be 'effort' related and recommended going with a single cylinder setup. He said with dual cylinders, hard brake pads, and gravel tires I'd probably need a bigger lever [and bigger arms] than I have. :-)
So I bought a single one...was able to use one of my original .625 cylinders (the other one blew the piston out of the front of it during a rallyx, lol), and just capped one of the outlets from the ABS box and used the other. Then put in a 'T' on the output side to go to the brakes. It still requires more effort than I like...not sure what else I can do, possibly different size cylinder. Not sure.
And I can't go back to using my ABS now...but half the time I'd forget to plug the wheel speed sensor back in anyway...she's old school now. :-)
What are you putting it into?
I'm considering putting one in my r53 for time attack more for the bucket seat reach issues you addressed. Im in the middle of a build
The IRP is only a single but are more narrow so if you dont have room in the center with what seat you have, it would have a better chance working. I like your set up, that off-road rally MINI looks awesome.
I realize that...that's why I'm questioning if I need the dual master setup and what bore size.
I'm looking at this one:
I need it for 2 reasons. One is that I've had to tighten mine 3x in the last year so it clearly wasn't designed for handbrake turns in the dirt when you have tires that give a lot of traction (not only RWD drift guys want to rotate their cars using the rear wheels).
The second reason is that my arm hits the side of the race seat before the handbrake fully engages.
I swear I read that we HAD to have the dual setup just can't recall where it was...
Pat
Where did you get your foot plate for the driver's side? Very nice
