So after the great deal I got for the daughter, I've keeping an eye for used R53s around Texas.
One came up from around the Ft. Worth area, a 2006 MCS with a bad supercharger, 130K miles, and ripped driver's seat for $1350. Called and talked to the guy says the car has the original clutch and paint problems. Car also has a history of a faulty odometer that was replaced and the title reflects that mileage is unknown. I pulled a carfax and come to find out that he is the 6th owner and at the very least the car has 190K miles on it. I told him that I would pass on the car. Even with the SC repaired at the most the car is worth is about $2500.
So I'm off to find another deal.

 

At 130K that would have been a good deal if you can turn a wrench.

 

I generally do not touch cars with non-clean titles. I can replace the SC easy, but SC is about $800 and it will need a new clutch which is about $500 with oem tob. Paint I can't fix and interior is well worn. Looks like the car has not been maintained well.

 

Get it for under $1,000 and you could make money parting it out if you wanted to go through the trouble.

 

The guy is firm on his price. He said he had been getting calls as far away as NC. I thought that I was far away (4 hour drive), but NC? Who would do that for a broken down POS? I could understand if it was a GP.

 

Getting calls and getting people to come look/purchase the car are very different things...

 

Found a 05 R52 MCS in my old stomping grounds, El Paso for $2700 with 169K miles with PS out (covered under the recall) and a ABS sensor light showing. Was going to buy it but after talking with the present owner decided not to proceed. Owner did not disclose that it still has some unrepaired body imperfections from an accident in 2013. Not sure why anyone would not disclose this from the get go as it would prevent a lot of people from calling who would not otherwise have interest.

 

They don't want to turn people away by being honest about what they are selling.

 

The guy was complaining that he got 30 call about the car. If you have full disclosure, the calls you will get, albeit less, will be quality inquiries.

 

So...he was upset and complaining that people were contacting him about something he is advertising for sale?

wat

 

Picked up another one. See my new thread.

 

Went to see a 2005 MCS JCW. Was not a JCW but had an aero kit and JCW brakes. Poor condition, modified to hell, rotors so badly worn that it had a 5mm lip on the edge. Had 2 O2 related CELs. Hadn't be registered in 2 years and refused to let me drive it.

I did miss out on a 2007 MCS with a blown engine, what ever that means, for $1900.

 

Probably a timing chain failure.


You are striking out with cheap Minis, I hope that guy didn't want a large amount for that fake JCW car.

 

They come in waves, just have to be ready to ride. He wanted $3500 was about $1.5k too much.

 

Even $2,000 seems like too much, I'm just too cheap for the Mini game.

I've been eyeing up a local R53 that has some issues, currently listed at $1,300, keeps coming down from $2,000 a couple months ago.

I'm waiting to make a move, trying to get it for under $1,000.

 

Almost always, I just offer them the max I'm willing to pay for the condition. If the deals works out then good, if not there are plenty of other cars out there that need rescuing.

 

Spent part of my lunch looking at a 2008 clubman s for $1200. Would've bought it, but the axles and motor were already out and there was no way I could tow it home.

 

That's a good deal if it had a busted engine, but with no motor or axles.. I would have passed also unless you would turn it into a track car.

 

It has an engine and axles but the were taken out. He had it at his buddy's home/garage on a lift and were in the process of swapping out the engine when he realized how much it would cost for a used replacement. It only had about 80K miles on it, second owner. I think it had a timing chain event as there was a chip broken off the top of piston #2. It scored an 86 on autocheck.

 

Those have timing chain issues, right? Do the engine and axles come with it or just was gone all together?


If you don't have too far to go you can tow it carefully with something that otherwise shouldn't be towing. We used to haul around a 944 track car on a 2 wheel dolly off the bumper of an old 5 speed 6 cylinder F-150. It worked but it wasn't great, or safe.

 

Everything comes with it. I just don't see how I could DIY tow safely. I live about 4 miles from the car, but only have a Rav4 to tow. Could borrow my BIL's truck and trailer.

 

Does your RAV4 have a hitch? If it does I'd say it could make the 4 mile journey. Somewhat safely.

 

It's got a class 3 hitch. So how would you tow a car with no front wheels/axles on the car? The front can't support any weight as the rotors/suspension are flopping in the wind.

 

I've spent some time thinking about this and I believe I've been over thinking this situation. If I slap the front wheels back on the rotors, I should be able to use a tow dolly to tow it home.

 

Carefully. If you want this car, there is a way. My advice comes with a big disclaimer that you undertake this as your own risk. I do not guarantee everything I'm going to post is safe, and it's probably not legal. Use common sense when loading and strapping, and avoid the highway while towing. Have friends help you.


If the front suspension could be bolted back together sans axles, that's the best option. Put some wheels on it and push it around. If the rotors are there then the hubs, a-arms, shocks, springs, etc should still be there. If there's enough to reassemble, this is the better option. If the suspension and rotors are still there I'm assuming the engine was cherry-picked out and the front sub-frame is still in the car. Dollies strap in the front wheels so as long as you can get them pointed straight and strapped in, they aren't going anywhere. If the steering linkage is not connected you just need someone at each front wheel keeping them pointed in the right direction. Just make sure everything is bolted back together securely.


If the suspension cannot be bolted back together you could get a section of 2x8 or 2x10 and strap it flat to the bottom of the front sub-frame/suspension/body and then strap that to the dolly. Use cinder blocks under the board if you have to raise the front end of the car. Use extra ratchet straps to secure as necessary. Strap or zip-tie the suspension and rotors so they won't flop around. This would involve some creativity and extra manpower getting it on and off the dolly but could be done. I'm assuming the car is being held up my jack stands now. You could prep everything and just pull the dolly under the front of the raised car to attach it. It it pretty? No. Will it survive a 4 mile journey, probably...


If you have to rent a dolly, leave out all the greasy details. Tell them you are towing something like a early Miata so they don't give you a hard time about towing with the RAV4.